pauliemc Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 I used the plans that Paulie sent me to make templates for the trem route. Glad I could help. I have a hefty stockpile of stuff if you ever need anything else. Im diggin the look of this thing, You gonna put the red straight onto the timber or do it candy - tint the clear & build you tone in coats ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 wow thats such a good idea.. why didnt i think of that!? *facepalm* Im off to go make better templates haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted July 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 I used the plans that Paulie sent me to make templates for the trem route. Glad I could help. I have a hefty stockpile of stuff if you ever need anything else. Im diggin the look of this thing, You gonna put the red straight onto the timber or do it candy - tint the clear & build you tone in coats ? Yep the plans were a great help, there was some variation between them so it was good to look at the differences and then choose the dimensions I was going to go with. For the body I am thinking a light stain with black then rub back and pile the red dye into the wood. Then candy coat it with more red dye in the 2 pack. Then a few coats of clear on the top. wow thats such a good idea.. why didnt i think of that!? *facepalm* Im off to go make better templates haha Here's the template getting drilled out This is probably way unnecessary, I bet in the old days they just placed the bridge on the body and stuck a drill through the holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Be sure the black & red dyes are not soluable in the same solutions. you know - use alchol based black & water red. or vice versa. & make sure they are dilutable with ONLY one thinner - like only water for one & ONLY alcohol for the other. Otherwise the black will just come up out of the pores & dilute the red & all the hard work blacking the pores goes to waste. Or at least so I hear, not like this is the frustrated voice of experiance, I am not sitting here typing this after making this very kok up on 2 gitirs this morning - I swear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Be sure the black & red dyes are not soluable in the same solutions. you know - use alchol based black & water red. or vice versa. & make sure they are dilutable with ONLY one thinner - like only water for one & ONLY alcohol for the other. Otherwise the black will just come up out of the pores & dilute the red & all the hard work blacking the pores goes to waste. Or at least so I hear, not like this is the frustrated voice of experiance, I am not sitting here typing this after making this very kok up on 2 gitirs this morning - I swear Oh man, good that that didn't happen or else I would have to say commiserations but I have a theory about stained wood, the more you stuff it up and rub it back and start again, the better it ends up looking in the end. I have not heard my GFS pickups yet but there are a few things I like already, I ordered them late Thursday night and they arrived on Tuesday. Plus I am not paying for a stupid plastic display box, so sensible to pack them in cardboard. And, the frame, springs screws and a wiring diagram are all there, why don't all pickup manufacturers do this? I printed the screw hole template and plastic and lined it up on the centre line, drilled about 5 mm down on the outside holes, Put the mdf template on, lined up with drill bits, clamped and drilled it. Worked ok, one middle hole is 0.5 mm out, not enough to worry about filling and redrilling. I checked the trem travel, all OK. I am pleasantly exhausted, two gigs this weekend, I will do a little bit more on the guitar this afternoon though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) Also managed to get a pick up route template done yesterday Edited July 15, 2012 by Muzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 The crunchy pat is a decent pickup...sort of like an old school overwound...think Van Halen.. But for full blown metal I like those rails they make http://www.guitarfet...lack-_c_89.html Be careful when wiring those...they use super thin wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 And, the frame, springs screws and a wiring diagram are all there, why don't all pickup manufacturers do this? Yea, Brett.... Why DON'T all pickup manufacturers do this? =o) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 The crunchy pat is a decent pickup...sort of like an old school overwound...think Van Halen.. But for full blown metal I like those rails they make http://www.guitarfet...lack-_c_89.html Be careful when wiring those...they use super thin wire Cool, that sounds perfect, but I think I will also try those rails at some point. yes I do like the vintage style wire with the braided shield. Trying out the trem Routing the bridge pick up cavity, checking the depth And that's enough for me today, I am starting to loose concentration, time to slob out on the lounge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 (edited) Connecting the pickups via the neck cavity Bridge pick up space Getting started on the three way toggle switch hole, 18 mm diametre spade stopping 6 mm from the other side. The switch is going to sit flat on the surface of the front. Edited July 21, 2012 by Muzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Checking the fit, but it's not going to be able to go further in at this stage Long shank pots so I don't have to pull so much out of the control cavity. And one more route to do, and the router goes back in the cupboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supplebanana Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 looking good Muzz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 (edited) Hey Sup, cheers mate, it's getting closer to getting stained. I am going to use a back to front Lezzo cover Cavity template making sure everything fits inside Scraped out the toggle cavity until it slotted in, it's very tight Edited July 22, 2012 by Muzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 This is coming along nicely. It took me a minute to follow your thought process on your switch fitting....but I got there. I'm not sure I would have without the next round of pics though. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 not too much left to do, I'm looking forward to rasping the arm rest and back cutout, yes the switch seating worked out OK. Drilling through to the control cavity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted July 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 I liked The Arctic Monkeys 'set' at the Opening Ceremony, love the groove they got going on Come Together. I filed the top and bottom off the Les Paul cavity cover, then made a frame template. It fits OK And that's the routing all done. Still to do - drill the neck screw holes, finish the 'AANJ', tummy tuck and arm rest :0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted August 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 I drilled a 3 mm diametre hole 30 mm deep from the input jack centre towards the control cavity. This shouldn't break into the cavity. The spade bit should follow this pilot hole and just break through on the left side into the cavity. Testing the fit, all OK Then I drilled the neck screw holes, in from the top with a drill press first on the body, then put the neck in, and follow the holes in 18 mm into the neck. This is the part that scares me, I would hate to see the drill bit pop out the fretboard, that has never happened though, right ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted August 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 Neck holes all OK Dropping 5 mm for the AANJ Rounding over with a mini file, 60 and 180 grit Drilling the Will Ferril holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levi79 Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 Coming together awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Man I just love no nonsense cavities. Well done dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Coming together awesome! Thanks Levi, what has been cool is that quite a few bits of it and some tools used to make it were presents so my family who gave them to me are interested seeing their gifts turn into a guitar. I got two fret saws given to me, one gentleman's saw and one Japanese dozuki saw, so I had to make sure I used them both Ferule holes done I love rasping out the carve on the back by hand, I straightened it up with a spokeshave and finally with a razor blade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Man I just love no nonsense cavities. Well done dude. Yep, same here, like most people my guitar is only using the bridge pickup about 97% of the time, both pickups on for clean sounds (a rare event) and the neck pickup by itself for the intro of Sweet Child O' Mine. I don't need any other pickup combinations so no more switches needed. Rasped the arm rest, love the comfort of this feature. And that's the woodwork finished on this guitar Now it's on to staining and finishing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted August 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 Today put a soaked paper towel and the iron to steam out a few little dings and started staining black, dilute stain first mainly for the endgrain sections then more concentrated for the side grain then hung up to dry, lost count of how many fallen off the hook dings I have seen on this forum so I put the beanbag safety net under mine then let it dry completely before sanding back 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supplebanana Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 yeah but then it will bounce off the beanbag & ding the car...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 (edited) yeah but then it will bounce off the beanbag & ding the car...lol Knowing my luck that could happen, just realized I put in bolt end holes for pick up frame mounting without deciding whether I am going with frames or not, more voodoo in screwing the pickups straight into the body, I can just plug the holes up with dowels if I decide to go no frames. The steaming out of small dings works really well, if you look at the pictures of the back of the body above you can see two furrows above the spring cavity that just disappeared, have a look at the picture where it's stained black, the're gone. Wouldn't work on the car though Edited August 5, 2012 by Muzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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