rubber314chicken Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 http://www.potvinguitars.com/oldsite/builds/090408/part03/ That guitar looks a bit like what I'm making. Actually, my body is closest to a Schecter C-1, but its still modified to have a slightly bigger top horn, slightly deeper lower horn cut in, and the armrest area is being toned down in size a little. Its Sassafras on walnut (well, the walnut is tentative as of now pending sourcing, but I like the contrast between the two woods). Anyways, useless details aside, I wanna carve the top. My plan is to rig up a jig like what the link shows. Except I want to change the carve on the horns. I like the PRS-esque carve extending onto the horns with the ridges. And the PRS-esque super deep carve in the lower horn. Is it doable using the router setup like that? I'm having a hard time visualizing the topography for that. Also, is is possible to use an angle grinder with a sanding disc to get that kind of carve? I've seen it done on more sweeping shapes, but I'm not sure about something like the PRS carve. Finally, in terms of cutting the neck angle on the body, cutting the neck tennon (its gonna be a bolt on) and routing for the recessed TOM and pickups, what order should that all happen in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Cut the geometry first. Then carve. There are plenty of documented builds here which demonstrate carving better than i. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeP Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Wow, there is a blast from my past! To be honest, I don't use that router jig all that much anymore. I've become somewhat more adept at using an angle grinder for roughing, but I absolutely do not recommend a grinder until you build up some practice hours. A grinder is quick way to turn a quilt top into a pile of sawdust . I also wouldn't recommend either method for the type of carve you're shooting for on the horns. I would tackle that with hand tools. Good luck with your build! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 (edited) Whether it helps or not, I was pleasantly surprised as how useful "finger" sanders are. They can easily bite and run away with you, but used with a little thought it made light work of dialling in the smoothness of a heel transition and belly cut. This is the heel just after sanding with 60 grit. I get they would be useful for dialling in a body carve at the top face end away from the recurve. Edited April 18, 2012 by Prostheta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotYou Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 I also just use angle grinders. For tighter areas, I use a Dremel with a carbide carving bit. Once it's roughed out, some sandpaper and muscle will take care of the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 An old old Norton Sanding disk in a drill... then curved scraper... then lots of hand sanding... then DA with 120 ---> 320. Maybe I should find an easier way as well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 A stick. With sandpaper on it. Breakfast of champions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=46446 More options on the same question. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Wow, there is a blast from my past! To be honest, I don't use that router jig all that much anymore. I've become somewhat more adept at using an angle grinder for roughing, but I absolutely do not recommend a grinder until you build up some practice hours. A grinder is quick way to turn a quilt top into a pile of sawdust . I also wouldn't recommend either method for the type of carve you're shooting for on the horns. I would tackle that with hand tools. Good luck with your build! Mike So what method do you use now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMCHueston0311 Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Hey man. Cut your Faux Binding, route to the level you want to leave at the end of your carve. Then draw topography lines around the body and place them about 1/2 a part. Then grab your router a rough route on top of those lines increasing the shallowness of each cut as you go. The grab an orbital with 120 grit, and some small ibex planes, and go to work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeP Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Wow, there is a blast from my past! To be honest, I don't use that router jig all that much anymore. I've become somewhat more adept at using an angle grinder for roughing, but I absolutely do not recommend a grinder until you build up some practice hours. A grinder is quick way to turn a quilt top into a pile of sawdust . I also wouldn't recommend either method for the type of carve you're shooting for on the horns. I would tackle that with hand tools. Good luck with your build! Mike So what method do you use now? Off the top of my head... -route the outer edge to a uniform final depth -if the pickup plane is to remain flat, mark off that area -doodle some topographic lines as required -hog off the bulk with a grinder -switch to chisels, planes, scrapers... you name it -fine tune with sandpaper I haven't done a tutorial in a while, but Jason Schroeder shows you exactly what I'm talking about in these photos... http://www.flickr.com/photos/23662702@N03/sets/72157623862258333/with/4576081469/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 hmmm... that's another vote for the angle grinder, but what do you do in the winter time? Do you still work outside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubber314chicken Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Wow, there is a blast from my past! To be honest, I don't use that router jig all that much anymore. I've become somewhat more adept at using an angle grinder for roughing, but I absolutely do not recommend a grinder until you build up some practice hours. A grinder is quick way to turn a quilt top into a pile of sawdust . I also wouldn't recommend either method for the type of carve you're shooting for on the horns. I would tackle that with hand tools. Good luck with your build! Mike So what method do you use now? Off the top of my head... -route the outer edge to a uniform final depth -if the pickup plane is to remain flat, mark off that area -doodle some topographic lines as required -hog off the bulk with a grinder -switch to chisels, planes, scrapers... you name it -fine tune with sandpaper I haven't done a tutorial in a while, but Jason Schroeder shows you exactly what I'm talking about in these photos... [PIC REMOVED] Thanks a lot, and thanks to everyone else too. That photo series was very helpful. I'll give the hand carving a shot, thought thinking about this more, I may end up doing a carve as I originally posted. We'll see what the top looks like when I start carving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 hmmm... that's another vote for the angle grinder, but what do you do in the winter time? Do you still work outside? If it's not raining or snowing, yes. It doesn't take very long to do, then move back inside with planes and scrapers for the detailing work. My shop (outdoor, with the big tools) is unheated, so if I'm building in the winter it tends to be acoustics (indoor shop, fewer large tools required) rather than electrics (which for me involves a fair amount of larger power tool use). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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