killemall8 Posted September 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2012 So, I got back to work today on this. I cut out the neck and routed the headstock and taper to shape. I also got the paduak fretboard slotted. Just as i was getting ready to cut the fretboard ends off, my bandsaw started acting funny. Ever sicne i got it, at random times it wouldnt start, like the spindle was jammed, and i had to manually spin it to get it started. Then it stopped for a long time and never gave me trouble. But today for some reason it acted up again, and the spindle on the lower wheel got so stiff i couldnt even turn it by hand. I think the bearings are shot or filled with sawdust. I still cant figure out how to get it off. I took off every pin and set screw. Have to look at it again tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted September 22, 2012 Report Share Posted September 22, 2012 Check and see that small bits of wood aren't jammed in somewhere.Mine gets jammed up where the blade goes through the rollers under the cutting table sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2012 Yeah, i alwasy check that too. I took the blade and belt and everything else off, and i can barley turn the bottom wheel by hand. It should spin freely like nothing, like the top does. And it squeaks really bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 22, 2012 Report Share Posted September 22, 2012 Yeah, squeaking sounds like seized bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted September 22, 2012 Report Share Posted September 22, 2012 Or a mouse trapped behind the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2012 The mice live in my tablesaw. The badsaw gets used too much for them to want to stay in it. That actually reminded me, there used to be an owl that lived up on my top wood rack for a while, since in the summer we leave the side door open. I kinda miss that owl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2012 Alrighty, So it was indeed the bearings. I blew them out with the air compressor and cleaned them and re oiled. Works better than it ever has now! So i got the fretboard cut and just glued it on. NOW, Before you say there are not enough clamps... The piece of wood i used as a caul is about 1 1/4" thick. With those big clamps on there pressing that piece of wood, it presses it tigher than liek 20 clamps would do directly on the fretboard. It bascially becomes a press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted September 22, 2012 Report Share Posted September 22, 2012 "I can feel it coming in the air".......(clamps). this is going great by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) Thanks Like i said, I guarantee this presses and clamps tighter than using a bunch directly on the fretboard itself. Edited September 23, 2012 by killemall8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Those are some big clamps. \m/ They are metal +1 on the caul and how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 RAD, I wish i could find more of them. My dad bought them at the flea market years ago, and they have out lasted all my other ones, and are all solid steel. They are hard to beat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Finding good clamps for reasonable prices these days is harder than one would think... my last batch of Made in China clamps left a lot to be desired. I am thinking an estate sale of craigs list might be the only hope to land nice steel clamps these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I agree. New clamps are insanley expensive. Flea markets and yard sales are the way to go. My dad just got a huge box of smaller ones the other day for like 5 bucks. They are perfect for when i glue my veneer on the bodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Clamping pressure radiates out in a 90° arc from the clamps through the caul. If these cross over each other, the clamping is sufficient and as you correctly say, turn it into a press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I am pretty sure they overlap in pressure. I have put smaller ones between them, and it did not seem to squeeze out any differently. I am very confident in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I really love that extra decorative laminate in the headstock. Carl Thompson uses this same technique to get the maximum mileage out of his top woods, separating recovered pieces with decorative laminates. Why try and hide a glue line when you can make it into a feature? ;-) This is one of three identical glueup tables where I study. One of the tables has had its clamps renewed and I really should have snagged the old ones. A bit of a cleanup and some Hammerite would have sorted them out! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 That is my thought exaxctly! There is nothing i hate more than an obvoius joint between 2 same woods. So why try to hide it, when you can put a matching wood in there, and get the best of both worlds? Those would have been great to have! Too bad you couldnt snatch them up. I just got the fretboard trimmed flush, and the board radiused. Going to fret it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Fretted, ready for carving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 That board looks sweet, how much wood do you leave in the back of the truss rod rout? I use those e bay rods too and try to leave at least 1/8 ", on maple, can you get away with less? ( by the way, you got away safe from the clamp police! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 Thanks, I am glad i kept some of this paduak! I usually leave about 3/16" behind the nut. I use a big volute, and really dont make very thin necks. They are usually about .85" at the first fret. I am sure on rock maple or super hard woods you could get away with less. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 0.85"/21mm is exactly what I aim for also. Thinner necks just don't sound as good unless the wood is itself good. Mahogany necks definitely need to be meatified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 I have made a few that were a bit thicker in the past, and they felt good also. I feel like the shape of the neck makes a lot more difference than the actual thickness. I Have made some that were around .89" that felt extremely thin, due to a more flat shape. This one has a little bit more of a flat shape to it as well, but came out feeling a little thinner than i wanted. It still feels good, but could have been a hair thicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 I'm tempted to play around with profiles a bit since I have always just scraped and sanded till they felt right and ended up with the same boring shape every time. Assymmetrical would be interesting. But anyway. Thicker necks have always made solid-sounding instruments unless the wood was crap. My Black n' Gold bass's neck is more like a Fender-ish feel and that sounds awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 When i had first started building, I had always tried making the thinnest possible necks, thinking that was the best. I made a few that were in the .79" range, and a few a bit thinner. I quickly realized that it was not nearly as comfortable as a more round, medium shaped neck. I also prefer a neck that doesnt taper as much in thickness. I like it where its almost the same thickness to the heel. Neck carved: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 Neck pocked routed that's a tight fit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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