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LP carved top Metal Jr


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Is that dyed veneer or ebony?

Black dyed Castillo.Ebony veneer is too expensive and not uniformly black.

juniors usually have full width tenons - gibson did it as a cost cutting measure but i actually think its one of their best features, i think you can even hear/feel the extra resonance when playing a decent junior

I didn't know that..I have played Jrs that were very resonant,but I just assumed it was the thinner body and the all mahogany construction.

This one is more like a hybrid of a Jr and a Studio.It's only a single humbucker and it's 1 3/4" thick(before the carve),but it is carved and it has no P90

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Figuring out a top carve is so difficult i think...it's all about art and symmetry...two things I am not great at

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The girl on the wall is judging me...she never says anything,she just stares right through me

I was going to say to shape it like a girls curves, as that is what I see when I'm carving my tops, but don't shape it like the girl in your poster, as it will end up looking like a Steinberg guitar..... :P

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I don't want you guys to think i didn't do anything today...so....

I resized the neck to proper width,sanded it to 100 grit,and it is in the clamps setting right now.I went back and forth over it but I decided to fret after it's attached because the fretboard over the tenon flexes a bit under pressure and I wasn't happy with the way it was messing with my attempts to sand it flat.It will obviously be more difficult,but it is what it is.I can't see why I would ever do this tenon thing again.On the bright side,the tenon is longer by far than a standard LP tenon,so it will be a very stable joint.

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Tuner holes drilled

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Jackhole!..I mean...jack hole

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And this is a brilliant photo of the control cavity I routed..I will get a better pic tomorrow when I get it out of the clamps...

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Very small cavity.I only took out enough for a volume push/pull and a tone...I want enough weight in the ass to balance this properly.The wiring will be series/parallel at the push/pull

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It's because I am excited about my new methods that have streamlined the procedure. found ways around the most work intensive parts of a guitar so it is more fun for me,and the instruments are better for it.

Main thing is the finish.using a rub in finish is saving me the most time,since there is no sanding or buffing.I am also using one piece bodies that are already at the proper thickness,so no laborious hand leveling(very little anyway),and I am using nickel fret wire instead of SS.I am also experimenting with different wiring so I can get different sounds out of one humbucker.This one is going to have a push/pull volume and one tone...wired up series/parallel so I can use a the tone knob and the push/pull to shape the sound for hopefully some useable cleans and some dirty blues as well as full blown metal.I am using a "crunchy pat" which is just an overwound PAF style pup geared towards the Van Halen sound...one thing I found is that if a pup is good for Van Halen,it is robust enough for metal but still sweet on leads and just basically a good versatile way to go.

Hope that makes sense...sleeping pills are fuzzing me out something fierce right now..thank God for spell check.

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Damn...

The screw for the recessed strap lock at the neck joint bound up in the ebony and stripped out...that's a big problem with these screwheads...they aren't a positive enough fit to the screwdriver and they have a habit of slipping on installation,but this is the first time I have had one strip completely.

I had to drill the head of the screw off to get the recessed fitting out,and now I have a dowel drying in the hole..once dry I have to redrill it to miss the remaining bit of screw that I can't remove...

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Damn...

The screw for the recessed strap lock at the neck joint bound up in the ebony and stripped out...that's a big problem with these screwheads...they aren't a positive enough fit to the screwdriver and they have a habit of slipping on installation,but this is the first time I have had one strip completely.

I had to drill the head of the screw off to get the recessed fitting out,and now I have a dowel drying in the hole..once dry I have to redrill it to miss the remaining bit of screw that I can't remove...

CRAP. *@(*^$% %^ I hate that crap...

I change all my screws to expensive SS versions of the same thing rather than risk using some crap the manufacturer put with their hardware. I also test my holes in hard wood before attacking the guitar. The good thing about my system is that I use the same hardware on everything so I can use a system and avoid stuff like that. Of course when I rush I forget my rules and F#$ SH$# up...

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