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Kea's Guitar Build Thread


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By the pound is cheaper.

I don't know where Warmoth gets their fretwire,but he is right in that Jescar is top knotch.Some of the cheaper fretwire is really soft and doesn't wear very well for serious players.I can chew through most Chinese fretwire in a few months,and I don't even play too excessively,though my grip is too tight I will admit.

Jescar wire will last me about two years on average before needing a recrown.

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Not a problem.

Maybe i'll look into something different next time i buy fretwire.

Work has been slow going. I glued one side of the binding on the neck for the SS last night. Will get to the other half today. Then i have to wait for fretwire to get here. So in the meantime, i will work on another neck.

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So this is my first year dealing with business taxes.

I also spent more this year on supplies than i ever have. I knew it was a lot, but dang... I didnt make much more over what i spent. kinda rough to think about.

I also have to pay a decent chunk in taxes this month too, since i picked semiannually to pay. i think i will change it to quarterly this year.

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Be sure to deduct all of your supplies and mileage you go through to get them.Also deduct your internet since you use it for business to sell stuff and buy materials,and set up a "home office" to deduct a percentage of electricity,phone,etc,Clothes you use to work too

Get Turbo Tax Home Business if you can.It walks you through all of that.It has saved me thousands in taxes over the years because without it Ii would not even know what to deduct.

Also,it is nice to save your reciepts,but not absolutely necessary to have them to deduct things.

Mileage is the most important.Keep track of all of it and if you can set aside one vehicle for all of your "business" stuff,then you can keep track better and deduct tires, oil changes and repairs

Remember that if you don't use your deductions you probably won't make it.It isn't the Government's "right" to take the food out of your mouth,no matter what they try to tell you.

Edited by westhemann
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Yeah, that is exactly what i plan to do. I have a log of every expense. I cant file those expenses until i file my regular taxes though.

Since i chose semiannually for business taxes, i have to pay by the end of this month. So i have to wait until i file regular taxes to write all that off.

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So, i kept having way too much trouble with the redwood burl guitar. I knew i was never going to get the finish right on it is. So i bit the bullet and stripped the finish and veneer off of it. The top pieces dont match as well as the back, because i put the good side to the back, since it was supposed to be covered with veneer.

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oiledEXP001_zps6bae09b8.jpg

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So been working on a bunch of guitars at the same time.

I had to sand off a fretboard and add a new one because i had a problem radiusing it and it ended up too thin.

So got that one sanded off and added a new macassar ebony fretboard.

I also got some new fretwire. It is the biggest size warmoth offers. here is the problem.

The fret tang length and thickness is the exact same as the one i was using before (was just one size smaller on teh chart)

And yet, i fretted, and i got a horrible backbow on the neck. I havnt had that problem in years, since i had a defective stew mac tablesaw blade that cut the slot too thin.

some guitars are just doomed from the beginning. I have never had a guitar go wrong then end up coming out right. Just everything that can goes wrong on them non stop. They either come out perfect or messed up.

I dont know if i should attempt to correct it wtih the truss rod or re fret. but i am 99% positive if i pull those frets i will have unfixable tearout, since that ebony shatters and tears out like no other.

One day, one day i hope to escape the addiction and obsession with these guitars.

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The barbs on the frets probably caused it. They are not biting into the ebony but prying the slots open.

I wouldn't try and correct it with the trussrod if it is visible to the naked eye back bow. That usually causes a hump to appear at the end of the trussrod.

If you are positive the tang fits the slot properly I would clamp the neck to the bench for a few days with some shims on each end and force some forward bow into the neck. The idea is to seat the barbs into the ebony.

In the past I have done this (not my favorite fix). Pull the frets, fix the chips, level the board (again), dremel the slots with a bit a hair bigger than the barbs on the tangs and epoxy the frets in.

Other thing to do is debarb the frets. Not completely but take a bit off them.

I know you probably know all these tricks but it never hurts for me to write them down so I don't forget them.

Equally obsessed!

--RAD

Edited by RestorationAD
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Thanks for the reply.

It wasnt so much visible, but when i put a straight edge across them it would rock or spin because it was slightly high centered.

I only ever have this problem with ebony. I guess because it is so much harder and doesnt give in at all.

I might let it sit there for a while to decide what i really want to do .

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Thanks for the reply.

It wasnt so much visible, but when i put a straight edge across them it would rock or spin because it was slightly high centered.

I only ever have this problem with ebony. I guess because it is so much harder and doesnt give in at all.

I might let it sit there for a while to decide what i really want to do .

On backbow like that I usually string up ebony boards and tune them to pitch for a week before leveling the frets to seat the frets.

\m/

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