rapfohl Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Wow, that is one RIDICULOUSLY sexy super strat... I always love your wood choices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 BUT! it seems to work perfectly with these colors. Yeah it does. It looks like you picked it out specifically for this build. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Got a bit more work done on it. Still been really busy with my other job and church stuff. The back routed for the string retainer and the control cavity. Neck will be glued in tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Got it all sanded up and sprayed. I made the big mistake of spraying at night. I coudlnt see how it was spraying and ended up spraying just a bit too thick. Got 2 mini runs on it. The burl didnt take the clear well at all. Some places it absorbed it and others it didnt stick to it. I will probably have to use an oil finish on the top. On a side note, It feels amazing and is probably the lightest super strat ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Here are some pics so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapfohl Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 What bridge is that thing going to have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 A hipshot hardtail. I had to recess it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 The burl didnt take the clear well at all. Some places it absorbed it and others it didnt stick to it. I will probably have to use an oil finish on the top.I fill the burl tops with epoxy (then level) before trying to shoot clear over them. Works really well. I will not do a burl top again without using epoxy to seal the voids first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 That is pretty much what i did. I filled the voids with black epoxy. It wasnt even the voids that had the problem. It was the smooth parts that seemed to not want to take the clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 That is pretty much what i did. I filled the voids with black epoxy. It wasnt even the voids that had the problem. It was the smooth parts that seemed to not want to take the clear. I used an epoxy that was drawn into the wood. System Three Mirror Coat. Basically it is the same idea as drenching a top in CA but without the annoying yellowing and foam. Burl needs to be stabilized that is all there is too it. You have to basically get it to stop soaking thing up. The best way I know to do that is with a water thin epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 That is true. I figured since the plain parts seemed fine, that it wouldnt have a problem, especially only being veneer. Another lesson learned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 That is true. I figured since the plain parts seemed fine, that it wouldnt have a problem, especially only being veneer. Another lesson learned.Hey we all learn them. I wouldn't say it is too late to try and fill the soft spots with a high solids sanding sealer.I am learning my own lessons on not pore filling with my latest finishing job... and I should know better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Yeah, it might come to that. But then that leads to having to do a gloss and smooth finish, which is what i have tried to avoid for years, because of the shrinking problems i always have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Yeah, it might come to that. But then that leads to having to do a gloss and smooth finish, which is what i have tried to avoid for years, because of the shrinking problems i always have.Right I forgot about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 I kinda have no choice though. I'll figure something out, i suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Here is another project i have been working on. I am about to glue the neck in now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Got the heel carved on the V, and sanding it right now. It is coming out a lot better than i expected. REALLY bad weather today and for a about a week though. I'll seee what i can get done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 I like the tight grain on the wenge fretboard. It is probably perfectly quartersawn isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Yes sir, 100% quartered. LMI always has amazing fretboard woods. I got it sprayed last night. The back and neck sprayed amazingly perfect. The top, not so much. Again, should have sealed the redwood with something. Maybe one day i will learn. So that pretty much ruins the whole finish again. Unless i can somehow just refinish the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 The finish you are using should seal it.....eventually. Can you not just spray and level the top enough times till it matches the body? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 I could, but it is going to shrink back like it always does. It will just keep soaking in and drying. Eventually it would stay, maybe. the redwood burl EXP i had finished about a month ago shrunk back so much you could see the shape of the grain through it, and that was with 2 coats of poly, 3 coats of high solids sanding sealer, and then 3 more coats of poly. The sides and back are open grained. You really only have one shot at that. If i spray over that again it will just look like a bad clear coat job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 So, With this MASSIVE cold front that we have coming through, all my stuff will be postponed. I have 4 guitars that need to be refinished out of the last 5 that i have built. So i guess those wont be done for quite a while. I will also not be able to make any more until i sell more, since i have put everything i had into the past 5 guitars i have built, without gaining anything back so far. I really wish i could do a professional job on clear coats. Something just always goes wrong. I feel that my woodwork and actual guitar construction is always near flawless, and can compete with the best of the best. But the finish is always what keeps it from being a world class guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 You just need to learn to fix finishing mistakes,that's all.No finish is ever flawless in my experience until it is patched up.Maybe you should just switch to something with good burn in so that you can drop fill and patch when you need to,then after leveling and buffing it will be flawless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted December 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Well, the issues i have had lately are ones i haddnt actually had before. with the burl redwood and the mappa burl, it just soaked it in an didnt build up finish. That kind is always fixable, because i can just level it and spray more until it is level. But again, after that, no matter what finish i use it always ends up shrinking after i buff it for some reason. It will look immaculate for about 2 weeks then every single microscopic scratch wills how up and the finish ends up looking unsmooth. I found a new finish the other day that i want to try. It is made for table tops and bar tops, so it is supposed to be rock hard. I will see if that lives up to its name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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