Sancho Marino Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Decided it was time to post up my first build thread here after lurking for many months... I've learned just about everything I know about building guitars from this site so before I go any further I want to thank you all for posting here and sharing your ideas and techniques for all of us noobs! I've completed a couple builds with varying success. I got two really nice playing guitars out of it, but each of them cosmetically were off a bit... Here's where that's going to change This build started with some offcuts I had that looked like they would make up a nice looking neck. Some Bubinga, Wenge, and Birdseye clamped up cut up and left to settle for a month or so while I was busy with other projects. I have a 2-piece Mahogany blank glued up that's going to get a Wenge top shortly... Looking at an Ibanez type Super Strat shape... It's my favorite shape so I'm coping it... So here's where I'm at with it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Now I like that head plate. That is right in my wheel house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Now I like that head plate. That is right in my wheel house. Thanks! I love matching headstocks.... I got the body cut out and ready for the Wenge top. I'm on vacation for the rest of the week so I'm hoping to get a lot done on this project before I go back... Should get the top on, truss rod cavity routed, and fretboard on tomorrow if all goes well... I like the view from behind already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Now I like that head plate. That is right in my wheel house. Yeah, what he said. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 This should be a great looking guitar, nice wood selection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted November 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 This should be a great looking guitar, nice wood selection If I don't screw it up it might I got the top resawn and glued together, made the fretboard, slotted and glued on the neck. I ran out of clamps so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to glue the top on.... I did learn that Wenge likes to splinter off like crazy. When I drilled the cap for the truss rod it splintered really bad and I had to build it up with CA and Wenge dust. Also it's much easier to route for the truss rod before gluing the cap on... doh! Any constructive criticism from you guys is more than welcome too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightninMike Posted November 29, 2013 Report Share Posted November 29, 2013 Wenge does splinter easily, and it also can cause a septic wound if it gets in your skin. Just take precautions and you will do well, especially when sanding edges. Very sharp tools with a minimum being taken off at a time helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted November 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 Oh wow luckily no septic wounds yet I got the top cut out, trued up, and glued on today. Since it likes to splinter so easily I made the top a little more oversized than I usually would so if the edges chipped they would be cut off anyway. Both pieces are oversized a bit. I'll trim off some of the excess with a bandsaw, then use my spindle/belt sander to take it down to the final shape... This is what I use for sanding the two sides flat. A trued up piece of Bubinga and 3M Sandblaster Pro (awesome stuff) 60 grit and it's flat in no time. Both sides are trued up and ready to glue up. I clean the surfaces with naptha and let it evaporate off before spreading the glue... If you want a pro looking glue join you need to use every clamp you own Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted November 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 Out of the clamps this morning and sanded to rough shape... Going to flatten the top next. I love a good glue join Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 30, 2013 Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 Wenge always looks so cool. Those appear to be nice joints, you must have done a good job with your flattening board. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted November 30, 2013 Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 If you think the wenge looks good now, wait till you put a finish on it! The stuff pops like crazy Looking good by the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted December 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 (edited) Hey thanks guys! So what would you recommend for a finish over Wenge? I was planning on 2K... Finished sanding... the top and back are flat and the sides are free of flat spots. Should look pretty nice when it's done... My favorite part starts tomorrow... Neck shaping Edited December 1, 2013 by Sancho Marino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Automotive 2k over a clear grain filler is my favorite finish. I recently did a wenge neck in Danish oil and even that looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Ah good I already have the 2K... Got some shaping done on the neck today... turning out good I think... I'm not sure if I'm going to leave the headstock shape like that, but it's kind of growing on me. I had to reduce the size a little since it's going to be 6 instead of 7 so I just rounded off the points... What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 With the volute the neck side looks good but the headstock side should be taken back to the volute point....like this Otherwise it will just get in the way of your tuners and look really bulky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 I agree with you Wes, I have more work to do on the headstock/volute. My feet were getting cold out in the garage so I had to quit for the day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Cool.I love the neck laminates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Cool.I love the neck laminates. Thanks. I'm pretty happy with the way it's shaping up. It's the first time I've attempted so many pieces in a neck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willliam_q Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Looks really good. Now that you've had to go to 6 string will you have to narrow the neck somehow for playability? I usually layer up the socks in the shed when the weather is cold. Nothing worse than when cold concrete saps the heat through your trainers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Throw away the Titebond II.Use Tightbond I please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Looks really good. Now that you've had to go to 6 string will you have to narrow the neck somehow for playability? I usually layer up the socks in the shed when the weather is cold. Nothing worse than when cold concrete saps the heat through your trainers. That's already been taken care of, right now it's 43mm at the nut and 56mm at the 24th fret... I know I should have doubled up on the socks. When I went to get my boots from the basement I found a mouse had been using one of them rent free Throw away the Titebond II. Use Tightbond I please. I have some Titebond I, what's wrong with Titebond II? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Throw away the Titebond II.Use Tightbond I please. I have some Titebond I, what's wrong with Titebond II?Nothing if you are building an ark!Titebond II is water proof and because of whatever they do to it to make it waterproof it never really hardens. Soft glue does not transfer vibrations very well and is prone to creep. Read visible glue lines during seasonal changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Throw away the Titebond II. Use Tightbond I please. I have some Titebond I, what's wrong with Titebond II? Nothing if you are building an ark! Titebond II is water proof and because of whatever they do to it to make it waterproof it never really hardens. Soft glue does not transfer vibrations very well and is prone to creep. Read visible glue lines during seasonal changes. Oh that's not cool... I guess I'll be switching to the Titebond I then. Thanks for the heads up man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Throw away the Titebond II.Use Tightbond I please. I have some Titebond I, what's wrong with Titebond II?Nothing if you are building an ark!Titebond II is water proof and because of whatever they do to it to make it waterproof it never really hardens. Soft glue does not transfer vibrations very well and is prone to creep. Read visible glue lines during seasonal changes. Oh that's not cool... I guess I'll be switching to the Titebond I then. Thanks for the heads up man!Hey it is a personal thing. But the bodies I used Titebond II and III on 10 years ago all have visible joints now do to creep. You can feel them under your fingers and I know they were tight when I made them. The guitars I build 20-25 years ago with good old Elmers Carpenters Glue (basically Titebond I) and Titebond I do not exhibit the same creep.Lately I use a lot more epoxy in places but I still rely on Titebond I for neck laminates, body joints, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Also I tend to be the glue and clamp police around here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.