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Home depot Challenge Build


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On 2/22/2016 at 8:39 AM, Prostheta said:

Take care not to let the Oak stay in contact with iron or rust too long otherwise the tannic acid in the wood will react, turning blue or black. It's easy to get caught out by this if you're not aware of Oak's oddities.

Did not know that about oak, i didnt end up liking the way the oak looked so i tried some walnut that i had laying around and as it turns out its not very easy to bend. I ended up just using some abs binding,

I had some issues with the neck so i decided to make a new one( Fret template was way off and I didn't catch it till I was getting ready to radius the finger board which was already glue on the neck, also had a router slip)

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T-nuts in place of threaded inserts is a simple and effective trick which I am disappointed that more people don't use. Same as the spool clamps tutorial I published, it's worthwhile grinding back the teeth a little for hardwoods to prevent splitting. They're designed for use in low-density wood composites like chipboard and MDF which don't have grain to split out. Larger teeth are useful in that respect for anchoring, whereas in this application they only require basic locating.

Is the binding gappy or is that something to do with the glue, dye, etc? I mean, you can't argue with it in a $100 challenge however if you can eliminate the reason it looks like that then you're hitting it out of the park.

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8 hours ago, Prostheta said:

T-nuts in place of threaded inserts is a simple and effective trick which I am disappointed that more people don't use. Same as the spool clamps tutorial I published, it's worthwhile grinding back the teeth a little for hardwoods to prevent splitting. They're designed for use in low-density wood composites like chipboard and MDF which don't have grain to split out. Larger teeth are useful in that respect for anchoring, whereas in this application they only require basic locating.

Is the binding gappy or is that something to do with the glue, dye, etc? I mean, you can't argue with it in a $100 challenge however if you can eliminate the reason it looks like that then you're hitting it out of the park.

there is a bit of gaping in the binding that's filled with abs melted down. 2 reasons caused this: 1.) I need to get a router that can take a 1/2" collet the one i have is a 1/4" and the bit doesnt quite do the job I would like it to 2.) I couldnt get the tape to hold the biding flush around the bends and because of the shape i couldnt get clamps on to hold it.

 

Thanks for all the kind words and help guys this is my 6 or 7th build im starting to get my guitars where id like them to be minus a few details that would be resolved if i bought some of the right tools 

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Well, it's just a shame about the gap than anything else. I mean, you don't need to spend big dollars on getting big dollar results. It certainly helps, but it isn't a requirement. That's a really nice balance between the pale blue and the sharp contrast within the binding. A very good look.

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2 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Well, it's just a shame about the gap than anything else. I mean, you don't need to spend big dollars on getting big dollar results. It certainly helps, but it isn't a requirement. That's a really nice balance between the pale blue and the sharp contrast within the binding. A very good look.

Thanks! im a little bummed that the binding isnt perfect but overall im happy with how the guitar has turned out so i can look past it for the most part.

i just need to invest in a new router so i can use my binding bit i have a feeling it would make things way nicer 

 

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I won't say anything about "pink", however I would say that "fanned fret" is a bit ambiguous. I wrote an article about that a few weeks back. I guess you mean "multiscale"? Fanned fret strictly applies to a specific geometric system which doesn't truly work unless you have parallel strings.

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This is a great looking build by any standard....for a $100 build it is simply phenomenal!

 Small gap or not in the binding, I am very impressed indeed with your routing accuracy for what must be the pinnacle of binding router challenges :)

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Did you heat the binding with a hairdryer to help it round the tight bends?

I got a small gap on the first bit of binding that I did - on my neck. The second bit of binding around the headstock went a lot better because I took my time, made sure to heat & bend the binding well before I got to it with the glue line, and ensured it was correctly held before moving onto the next 6" section - using cable ties where tape or clamps were impractical. Ideally the binding should naturally sit close to where you want it and not be trying to pull away too much, before you glue & tape/clamp it.

Very nice work though - I love the colour

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  • 4 weeks later...

It's been awhile since I've posted here. I haven't had a chance to get very much more work done.

i did however get it clear coated and oiled so that's where it's sitting now. I test fit the hardware to make sure very thing was going to work I intended it to and well it doesn't... I had to rework the head piece so that each string is individually held in place which was a simple enough fix.

However the bridge was a differnt story. First off I had the string spacing way off and so I have to make a new plate to tie everything into. Second when I measured for scale length for some stupid reason I measured to where the bridge ties into the plate and not where the individual "bridge" string adjustment is. And 3rd the tuners on the bottom didn't work like intended because the string doesn't slip all the way down the shaft, cause the string to just twist when I try to tune it.  

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I managed to find another beautiful piece of flame maple at my trusty Menards today that has better figuring than the other one I bought. Total cost for this bad boy was $45 it's figured about the same the whole 8ft 

FAEEBDCF-983B-46C6-84B2-82ABBD0B9D2B_zps

another reason I've been slacking on this build was that I decided I needed to build a guitar chest of sorts and new desk so here that is:

F971F85A-7B97-4DAA-8384-4DF3D143E117_zps

 

 

Edited by DandHcustoms
Pictures didn't work
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3 minutes ago, KnightroExpress said:

Just paste the direct links rather than the IMG codes, this happened in another recent thread. You've got some really cool projects going  :)

ahhhh thank you so much!!! im struggling with technology today.

Im hoping to get most of the guitars on the rack finished in the next couple weeks. 4 of them have been sitting for almost a year now....:blush thank god they're all my guitars minus the acoustic 

Edited by DandHcustoms
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On 3/31/2016 at 10:12 PM, DandHcustoms said:

I managed to find another beautiful piece of flame maple at my trusty Menards today that has better figuring than the other one I bought. Total cost for this bad boy was $45 it's figured about the same the whole 8ft 

FAEEBDCF-983B-46C6-84B2-82ABBD0B9D2B_zps

another reason I've been slacking on this build was that I decided I needed to build a guitar chest of sorts and new desk so here that is:

F971F85A-7B97-4DAA-8384-4DF3D143E117_zps

 

 

 

Oh, consider this idea stolen! I am making one of these for the ProjectGuitar.com workshop now. :thumb:
Of course, credit where credit is due. It's just a great idea. Are you going to line the bottoms with some kind of material?

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14 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

 

Oh, consider this idea stolen! I am making one of these for the ProjectGuitar.com workshop now. :thumb:
Of course, credit where credit is due. It's just a great idea. Are you going to line the bottoms with some kind of material?

That would be awesome! I'll be glad I could actually contribute in a way.  I really like the idea of having bookshelves in an office, and thought why not make a bookshelf for guitars. 

 The bottom is lined with black felt. 

Edited by DandHcustoms
Talk to text sucks
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I was thinking that having a pair of sliding doors in rails on each half would be great for total protection (against flying workpieces) and be more compact than full doors. I priced up PMMA/acrylic/plexi/Perspex here an it's crazy expensive for that sort of area. Maybe thinner 2-3mm and a surrounding aluminium frame to stiffen it up....

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