curtisa Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 If it's anything like the rest of the generic plantation-grown Eucalyptus varieties, it should work quite well for a neck or solidbody instrument. Straight grain, probably a bit plain-looking. Can be a bit heavy so if you make a solidbody out of it you might want to consider chambering. If it behaves like the hardware store stuff that's available down here it might be a little bit splintery across the grain when milling, but like any timber you can always work around that. FWIW, one of my previous builds used hardware-store Eucalyptus for the body and neck. The neck has been one of the most stable ones I've made to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 Many thanks I intend to try it on my next guitar. I have finally started cutting out the patterns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 Can anyone help me with the thickness of the sides for a chambered semi hollow 335 guitar many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 17, 2018 Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 Can you not take that measurement from the plan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 17, 2018 Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 Thickness is dependent on whether it is bent or laminated. A couple of mm is much easier to form than 3-4mm. If you're laminating then it's a multiple of the veneers being used with each one being easier to form than a solid side. Thicker is more durable of course. You can go less, however that's more useful for acoustic properties where the lightness is paramount. What can you manage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 17, 2018 Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 Or at least, that's based on my limited experience. If you're going for a solid piece with large chambers, grain runout makes it difficult to get any reasonable thin-ness. I'd say that this is more going to be answered by your capability at this stage. Once you have a feel of the technique under your fingers you can aim for more ambitious targets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 It's 8mm on the plan would this be thick enough for a solid piece of chambered wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 17, 2018 Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 Definitely. A bit of a challenge to rout because short grain can blow out very very easily. Lots of short light passes. The router is a shaper, not a tool for removing lots of stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 Many thanks you have been very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Template for cutting out middle chambered section I have made the outside 10mm. I intend to cut a flat section chambered and cap the top and bottom with carved pieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Sorry forgot to post pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 I can see that being difficult to rout with. I would have made two templates; one internal for chambering with no outline and one outline with no chambering. That way you have the maximum amount of bearing surface on your template for the router base. The problem is that any slight tipping when routing will in all likelihood cause tearout or complete destruction of the workpiece. I know that this is just the paper copy of course! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 I never thought of that. What would be the best way to cut the grass templates to do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpcustomguitars Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Looking forward to developments! Are you planning to carve the plates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 6 minutes ago, spottydog said: I never thought of that. What would be the best way to cut the grass templates to do that Grass? I'd make a couple of copies of the paper template. You've got to ensure they line up well so you don't end up with distortions between one and the other causing thin and thick parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Yes I'm planning to carve both of the plates. Dam auto correct ha ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Do you think it would work like this. If I left 2" all round the for the router and cut the Chambers out as normal then line up with the centre line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 I'd make two complete separate templates. I guess that this is the expensive option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Not really it's just me been thick I have no idea how I would cut them out. Could you maybe post some photos if it would not be too much trouble as I said I'm thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Many many many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Hi. One of the many problems I have when building is getting the correct neck angle. Has anyone any hints or tips for getting the right angle or for checking the angle is correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Errors can be introduced from a number of sources. I calculate my neck angles by drawing a side profile of the instrument in CAD, including the fingerboard thickness in the centre and fret height. Translating that into useful work is a different matter. Where do you find that your difficulty comes in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 I have used the angle detailed on the plan and on the template but after building I find that the string action is too high which has put me off set neck guitars as once the neck is glued there is little room for any adjustment of the neck angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 2 hours ago, spottydog said: I have used the angle detailed on the plan and on the template but after building I find that the string action is too high which has put me off set neck guitars as once the neck is glued there is little room for any adjustment of the neck angle. Personally, I draw the critical positions full size, based on the actual bridge, along with the lowest and highest saddle adjustment range, the fretboard thickness, the fret thickness and the planned action height at 12th. I pitch the angle for the string to be level with one or two mm above the lowest saddle position. This gives me a bit of wiggle room. Here's a typical one of my drawings - as you can see, there's not a lot of detail ... just the critical positions: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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