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DC Ross

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Everything posted by DC Ross

  1. Adjust the neck so it's perfectly flat when measuring. I'd aim for the bridge to be even with the frets at its lowest position (i.e. the straightedge touches the fret tops and the bridge saddle).
  2. What are Factory standard slot dims? Like RDub said, measure the strings you'll be using and cut slots to match. A standard set may run something like: .028 .032 .040 .030 .036 .042
  3. It smells like cinnamon when you work it, too. Makes me want sticky buns.
  4. Better yet, how about a drill bit in a drill press... Use a 1/4" brad point bit, and the hammer method that Spoke spoke of. Works for me every time.
  5. Who had the uncanny knack to almost hit those bent notes every single time
  6. I have a Martin DR that I bought for about $600. It's a great sounding guitar, and plays very well. It's quiet, though, so maybe not the best choice if you're going to be playing with other musicians.
  7. Plug your numbers into this tool from StewMac: http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator
  8. With the bridge angled that radically, the string spacing at the bridge will be less than advertised, and will change slightly when adjusting for intonation. Maybe not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind.
  9. From StewMac: Tip (positive) is shortest terminal. Ring (stereo output) is mid-length terminal. Switch (for battery) is long terminal. Ground is long arm coming from side of jack.
  10. Hey Spoke, I figured it out, it's called a "deep 12 point thin walled 3/8" socket". Ask for it by name.
  11. Thanks, ihockey, I posted the question over there as well.
  12. The Guitarfetish one is a 12" radius and is super cheesy. It also has a very long/deep block, so don't plan on recessing it.
  13. Thanks for the reply Mattia, There was indeed a wrench to remove the assembly but the way the nozzle assembly is designed, it seems like it requires a socket of some sort to remove the nozzle itself. As for the needle, the part numbers engraved on them are identical. I sent emails to the manufacturer and the dealer, but figured I'd increase my chances and ask here as well Thanks again.
  14. I finally bought a decent gun, and have no idea how to swap the nozzle. It's not quite normal, and there are no instructions and nothing on the interwebs about it. Here's a pic: You can see that the nozzle (brown/bronze bit) threads into the nozzle body holder thing (steel bit), but there's nowhere for a wrench to grab it. What knurling there is, is below the lip of the nozzle holder. Any ideas? Also, the 1.5mm and the 1.7mm needles are identical (although the nozzles are different). Is this normal, or was I shipped the wrong part? Thanks
  15. Classical / nylon strung guitars don't have a truss rod. Is this what you're building?
  16. Like I always say, if you want a Floyd, get a Kahler
  17. Fruit woods will typically move more than other hardwoods, but other than that, I don't see why they aren't used more.
  18. Plus, you can get that staccato machine-gun type effect if you do the (@ about 3:03)
  19. Vulcanizing is a process that has nothing to do with wood. I'm not sure why Suhr would call it that (unless he's impregnating the wood with rubber )
  20. I accidentally left the tape on one neck. It doesn't seem to make a difference I think the OP was asking about dual (i.e. two) truss rods, not dual action.
  21. http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/...iring_diagrams/
  22. It's a bit hard to read, but that's 0.646" thick.
  23. Some of the best, in my book. I'm surprised they caught on as well as they did, since guitarists are, by and large, such a traditional, fickle lot. Check out this article/interview from the ToneQuest Report: http://www.kenparkerarchtops.com/ParkerTQRDec09.pdf
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