GregP
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Everything posted by GregP
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Ah, yes-- I misread. I thought he meant there was no humbucker at all, just a P-90 in a humbucker casing.
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HSH doesn't need a reverse polarity middle to reduce hum. SSS typically does, and you have a... SSS configuration! So yeah, reverse polarity, reverse wound (gotta be both) to reduce hum. Note that this works best when two similar singles are combined. Mixing a strat-like single with a P-90 type single won't be as effective. But "partially reduce" is better than "not reduce at all", right? Greg
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I recognize the value and difficulty of the work. For the right person and the right guitar (well, and the right luthier!) it's a sound investment (no pun intended). That said, I only own one whole complete guitar worth more than that. $750 buys me a lot of happiness. -
I think it looks awesome, but I don't know what the measurement issues are. I heard somewhere in another thread here that Purpleheart doesn't really stay "purple" over time anyhow, so I don't think that the colour purple should be a problem...? Or am I insane and imagining things?
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I think he meant that the neck component will be stripped-- sold without the tuners, nut, etc. The first post shows that both body and neck are being sold. Unless that's changed.
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Just curious? Did the customer want to know? Do Hondos have resale value the way some Tokai LPs do?
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Depends on your definition of "useless". I would only say "less accessible." Classical guitarists seem to do OK on guitars with no cutaway from 12/13 on up. Ditto lots of other stringed instruments with no cutaway. Making it single-cut would have potentially ruined the "violin" aesthetic, so it depends on whether the shape and overall impression is more important than upper-fret access or not. On the other hand, the entire design could have been shifted a bit and provided more upper-register access. All other considerations aside, I like it. It's kewl.
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I don't love it, but that's just me. In terms of balance, the butt-end of it is quite girthy, so that should at least help with the potential neck dive issues.
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A Call Out To Phoenix Rising
GregP replied to Drak's topic in Site Feedback, Issue Reporting and Test area
Oh, I'm willing to believe he's been "called out" or whatever; I just fail to get that excited about it. :/ -
A Call Out To Phoenix Rising
GregP replied to Drak's topic in Site Feedback, Issue Reporting and Test area
Erm... hooray? -
extended warranty on a computer? That's madness! The thing will be obsolete before it breaks down.
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"The nut is poorly cut" is my main clue. Improperly slotted nuts is probably the biggest cause of the intonation going way out of whack when fretting open chords. It should be said that all guitars will go out of tune a bit when fretting, but with proper intonation, sometimes this out-of-tuneness is almost imperceptible. When you say you test them at the 12th fret, can you describe exactly how? Perhaps you have a slightly faulty understanding of intonation that might be the root of the problem, too. Vintage barrell-style tele saddles will also rarely "perfectly" intonate-- perhaps a tele vet has pointers on the best way to average out the imperfections?
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*bump* How about the hot gold duallies? They're more plentiful on eBay. More traditional tone (as opposed to my original post), but I don't have to be in completely new territory to be happy.
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I wasn't clear-- I meant, I knew which domed ones you meant, but the majority of people have recommended the flap discs in their place. The domed ones *reportedly* (haven't tried it myself!) clog up and are riskier in terms of burning the wood. Greg
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It will work fine. Plenty of custom builders have done it, including a forum irregular, Scott French: http://www.scottfrench.com/i/Finished%20Cu...vel%20Guitar/09 (his full website is worth a look, too!)
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sure, but most people were actually recommending the flap sanding disc that can go on an angle grinder. http://www.pothierenterprises.com/flexible..._flap_discs.php just the first link I grabbed... no idea who potheirenterprises are. Second item down.
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I've been looking into Lace pickups to meet my needs for something unconventional-sounding. So, I'm not after their typical "Sensor" line, though I'd consider something quasi-conventional like the Power Sensor. The ones that caught my interest were: - Transensor (esp. California and California Convertible) - Alumitone - Hemi Humbucker - Drop and Gain (even though I won't be dropping, the desc. still makes standard tuning attractive) - Arena - D-series Anybody have any experience with any of these? I'm not after vintage tones at all. The descriptions make them all look relatively attractive, but on the other hand, all manufacturers' descriptions are only as good as end user experience. Also, given that Lace pickups in general use different technology (impedance, inductance, etc...), can I use active EQ or gain boost in conjunction with them? Greg
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Good luck, Deaner. Hey, how frequently will we need to recast this vote? lol The spread can theoretically change on a month-to-month basis.
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Forgive my ignorance, but aren't all those knots going to be problematic? Or no?
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The very second I saw it that's what instantly came to my mind also. Beautiful guitar Perry. Me, too. lol And echoing the above sentiments-- simply spectacular. One of the coolest guitars EVAR! Love it.
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It would only depend on how sturdy your veneers are. Other than that, I don't see why not. If you use long-shaft controls, you could probably even get away with including the 1/4" cherry in that mix. You'd have to see if all your controls come in long-shaft varieties, though. But if they're just wee thin veneers, I wouldn't really think it'd work... for the veneer to adhere smoothly and properly, wouldn't it need to have contact with the wood that it's being veneered to? So, it just comes down to if they're flexible, paper-ish veneers, or if they're a pair of relatively sturdy 1/8" veneers.
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I agree with the truss rod cover idea, but that's just me. As for gluing "after the fact," you don't have to cut exactly first. You can glue on your veneer, rough cut it close, and then trim it flush using a... er... flush-trim router bit! Or something like a robo-sander, which would be friendlier on thin veneer with the kind of grain limba has. Clamping the neck in such a way that you could do this isn't all that tricky, though it'd be juuuuust a touch trickier than just doing what you want to do and gluing first.
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I don't have enough hands-on experience to answer your questions in a definitive way. Sorry.
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Simpler than an actual semihollowbody with bent sides? Sure. Chambered solidbodies are very common and have a long history. It's a great idea and should work very well as long as you've planned it out. Greg
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Well, that's all with the assumption that the current ones aren't "normal size" already.
