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american_jesus

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Everything posted by american_jesus

  1. american_jesus
    i love the look of plain maple, but i dont think you should do the WHOLE thing clear. i think you should spray the back and mahogany sides(leave ALL the maple alone) some color, maybe a red? then leave the maple natural. mahogany isn't that great a looking wood(in my opinion) to do clear...so...take it as you will.
  2. american_jesus
    you should change your strings more often. you'll thank yourself. i've changed my strings 7 or 8 times since then...at least...
  3. american_jesus
    i like my floyd. i have a japanese made jackson "licensed under floyd rose" copy. it's really good. stays in tune for DAYS! never heard about breaking springs...so...and changin strings is easy as piss. i mean it. once you do it twice, it'll take you 5 minutes.
  4. american_jesus
    the main part of the guitar is mahogany. the neck and body are both mahogany, but the body has a maple cap(usually flamed maple). the fretboard is either rosewood or ebony, depending.
  5. american_jesus
    looks more like the kool-aid guy to me...
  6. american_jesus
    yeah, i've talked to michael over at the guitar.com forums, and sent up a quote for him on the shamray forums. they seem to be really back logged lately, and would take forever to get one done. but that's the price you pay. i'm probably going to go through with it, once i get the oney...after i finish paying off the guitar i'm going to buy soon. i just like to get second(or third, or fourth) opinions...
  7. american_jesus
    gp...have you played any of the custom guitars Shamray has made? i'm looking, in the distant future, to order a custom strat from them, but i'm not sure how they are. everyone i've talked to(the people from guitar.com, essentially) said they were great guitars, but i still dont know if i wanna drop the money on them yet...
  8. american_jesus
    it's roughin up pretty nice. need to take some sandpaper to it and get it all done well. how you gonna do the routes? and what kind of bridge you usin?
  9. american_jesus
    i say do it black with a MOP inlay nuder the bridge of some sort.
  10. american_jesus
    a think a nice burst, fading to black just around the edges would look damn awesome on the top. just a little black around the last 1/2 in or so(however far you need to cover the sand through), with the amber in the middle. pure class right there.
  11. american_jesus
    reranch is really classy. i did the base paint on my guitar using reranch, had a friend do some custom graphics(that i didn't feel comfortable doing), and am in the process(sorta) of clearcoating. i just need the wet sandpaper. but the color goes on easy, nice and clean look, just gotta follow the rule of 3's.
  12. american_jesus
    havent read through the whole post(maybe i should), but i was thinking, if you do a rose, running up and down the WHOLE fretboard, the stem's gonna look mighty thin. i think a cool thing to do would to be a wood inlay for the stem up to about the 14th fret, and the head of the rose on the headstock.
  13. american_jesus
    carvin has em...and carvin is known to make great products. link to carvin kit check em out
  14. american_jesus
    man, that bass is gonna be awesome...when it's finished... the swatch of wood that you did as a sample of th finish that's going on looks great. it'd look awesome over the whole body. hope you get this bad boy finished!
  15. american_jesus
    right. so if you're looking for an standard SG sound, use mahogany, and get yourself a swamp ash veneer to make the look of one of the voodoos.
  16. american_jesus
    why dont you make the guitar, laminated, then take a single piece of mahogany veneer, and put it over the whole top and bottom? that way you get the wholew thing lookin like mahogany, and the sound you want.
  17. american_jesus
    wow. that's all i have to say right now, just...wow. looks awesome. i think the body dimensions could have been a little more standard and a bit more refined(the top shoulder, on the bass side, a little straighter than the slant you have in for instance), but...with the steps away from tradition it looks great. i dont know if you ever thought about it, but if you plane the ebony thin enough, you can get a really cool pickup cover without any different tonal responses, to add to the purely natural look. you said no plastic on the guitar, i'd have gone the whole 9 yards. i really like the f hole you've got, and the shape is cool, a lot less traditional than i thought it was gonna look when i first saw the body taking shape, but the whole thing really looks great. bet she sounds awesome too.
  18. american_jesus
    the bigsby wont mess up your sound much. it'll be a little different, but for the most part, still good. i dont know if you've ever played iwth a bigsby, but it's less of a tremolo sound, and more of a warble. it's not meant for radical bending, just a little vibrato to a whole chord.
  19. american_jesus
    the MIJ squires are more expensive then tacocasters nowadays. used and new. squires can be decent guitars. the affinity series are pretty bad...so, i'd definately stay away from them. but for the standard series, they're decent. about $200 for a new one, or $120 or so on the bay. just make sure the logo is gold instead of black before bidding on ebay. upgrading the electronics WILL help, some...but it's not going to make it a great guitar. the trem could use replacing, with either a floyd or a better 6 point vintage trem. the ones on there are shoddy. a new nut(roller?) would do you well also. if you were to set all that stuff up, you'd definately have a passable guitar. it's just as long as you like the neck, that's pretty much the only thing you can't change...
  20. american_jesus
    why dont you assemble the BC Rich, sell it for $200, then sell the rest of the stuff for a good $200? That's a $50+profit on your part, plus you make some kid happy with a "custom" BC Rich.
  21. american_jesus
    if you're doing a 25.5" scale neck, you're going to have to use the full 25.5" scale. the neck pickup will have to be pushed up the extra 3/4" and the bridge pushed back 3/4". dont know if you've caught onto this yet, but the neck is NOT 25.5 inches. from the nut to the 12th fret is 12.75", as it is from the 12th fret to the bridge. that's how they get the 25.5 inch scale. if you were to leave the bridge where it is, the intonation would be screwey, and it'd never play really in tune.
  22. american_jesus
    i havent built a guitar myself, but i plan to, so dont take my words over anyone elses here. if you've got all the machines you could need(saws, routers mainly. buffing wheels and sanders are also helpful) you should be OK. you asked about truss rods, simply put, they bend the neck. tighter it is, the more bowed it is, looser, less bow. there's a channel in the neck where the rod goes, under the fretboard. for the neck, if you're doing a set neck, and have not worked with carving curves, practice on scrap, a lot, or buy a premade set neck. and the most important thing i can say(remember this, for as long as you're doing anything) measure twice(or more!), cut once.
  23. american_jesus
    ya know, i usually loathe paointy guitars. but i find this one well done. it's got an agressive edge, but it's kinda refined, in a sick sorta way. it's not like the BC riches that have a couple of nasty points, and look like crap. this looks like a double sided knife, sorta...i dunno, but i like it.
  24. american_jesus
    dont know how it would look finished, but that top wood looks killer!
  25. american_jesus
    that explains it. it's makin me drool now!
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