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thedoctor

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Everything posted by thedoctor

  1. thedoctor
    I am pretty sure he can't get a hacksaw blade anywhere near these screws without totally EFFING up the pickgaurd or control cover. You can't use an extracter cause they don't make them that small, and if you were to drill, which you would have to do to use an extractor, just as the head of the screw became seperated from the thread portion, it would run the remaining screw in so far you would never see it again. This is the most common prob I have with music-store dragged in mods. Someone has been there before me and made a reasonably easy task a real booger. In case you haven't noticed, "booger" is one of my favorite terms. Booger, booger, boog...oh, that's enough for now.
  2. thedoctor
    There was a topic started not too long ago about a guitar that you could, oops. Never mind. I think those suck rather large and are a product with no viable market. I hope they go broke soon and prove me right. Oh, yeah. IMHO Just remember that.
  3. thedoctor
    OK, to clarify, the xfmr you now have will run one speaker or cab of the correct impedence. Anything else you want to hook up will need it's own xfmr. And it is ok if they run a little hot. In the 50s, these were responsible for several wall and cieling fires in schools and churches. Poor installation, I guess. Like screwing them to a piece of wood lath and covering them with insulation.
  4. thedoctor
    First off, what's wrong with holding the lead between your legs? Perchance, you could get a groupie to do it for you? Second off, 50% of everything I work on has stripped screw heads. The method I use (I don't drill em less I have to) is to take a driver of the correct flavor (Phillips or straight) and VERY lightly tap on the driver whilst rotating it in the desired direction (out or anti-clockwise, in your case) a very small amount. You only get a quarter-degree of rotation per tap but it beats, uhhh....., well it beats something. Best of luck as it is a slow process that can't be rushed. Tap, don't HIT.
  5. thedoctor
    If you got a couple hundred bucks to blow, get one of them Tascam or ZOOM cheapo 8-chanell recorders and spend the next month or two having an absolute RIOT playing with it. The sound quality is not good but it's not horrible. You will learn SO much about SonS, multitracking, syncing, etc. that, if you make it that far, you will be ready to spend some real bucks on a decent unit. They are about my favorite cheap toy. To start out doing computer based editing is a very daunting task that several end up throwing in the towel on. You must first learn to chew, Grasshopper.
  6. thedoctor
    Uncle got it right. It is gonna be easier to hit a new angled hole that isn't a bridge screw hole, in the first place. The other issue is you have no control over how the wire is gonna be treated as the screw is tightened. It could just call it quits and break. I usually put a small piece of copper shielding tape over the wire where I hope the bridge is gonna get it's ground. Make sure it is the conductive-adhesive type, however. If nothing else, at least tin the wire with some solder to make it compressively stronger.
  7. thedoctor
    The KTM-9 finish needs to be applied by someone who has read ALL of the directions. When used correctly and with NO shortcuts, it is quite good but a little slow, process-wise. As for all you IDIOTS who say nitro kills brain-cells, you can,....ughhh, oh yeh, you can just uhmm..., what is it we were talking about, again? Ozzie keeps handing me beers and I caN'T tHInK , UH...THUD
  8. thedoctor
    I bought a DG-20 from a drunk in a music store that was bothering the salespersons trying get some bucks for it and leave. I told the owner to give me a set of Darcos/medium bronze and threw them on in about three minutes, a new record, I believe. Three chords and a three-octave later, I gave the guy $70.00 and he left. That is the best $70.00 I have ever spent. Beat to hell, looks like crap and plays like an Epi Emperor. Nice neck. I haven't a clue who makes Fender's accoustics for them but they do a good job. Almost as good as (you don't wanna hear this) Yamaha. For under $500.00, I would look at both the Fender and the Yamaha. Forget Epiphone, Washburn, Ovation (like $500.00 will get much) or the cheaper Taylors. Buy the most you can afford and take it home over a weekend before you pay them for it.
  9. thedoctor
    Well, wes, you were the first to respond and we ALL know how fake or double ID posters love to answer their own questions so a little applied logic would bring me to the conclusion that, YOU ARE A FRAUD!! WHO are you really and what have you done with wes??!! Well, at least answer the first question.
  10. thedoctor
    I feel compelled to add, before it is too late, to the attention of Whitey: BAD month to put the bass in, dude! I already promised I would vote for the Tele before he even entered it. It ain't you; it ain't the bass. Both of ya are potential GOTMs. And no IMHO required here.
  11. thedoctor
    How about a pan pedal made with a 225 watt, 64 ohm Ohmite wirewound rheostat? You would have no sudden inrush, like with a switch, and you could warm your hands over it on a cold stage?
  12. thedoctor
    I repair a few Randall tube amps for music stores and them boogs are built to last. I really don't like the solid-state Randalls at all. The Traynor has a much better speaker setup and I would also mention that I have never had to repair one. Sounds like a landslide for the Traynor.
  13. thedoctor
    You don't need a line xfmr for each SPEAKER, you need one for each CAB. If you can still get an impedence reading on the original speaker's voice coil, or read it on the back of the speaker, you can run ONE cab of equal impedence with the xfmr you have. Add another xfmr for each additional cab or to run a new internal speaker. Almost forgot, I wouldn't plug that thing in until you put a 3-wire power cord on it to ground the metal chassis. 2nd edit. The mind is the second to go. DIYaudio is a good amp forum but it is HIGHLY structured toward security and anti-rant/rage. The search function on this (PG) forum will also give you some great links.
  14. thedoctor
    Okay, I blew that picture up and it has two unbalanced inputs. One for guitar, one for mic. The lead going to the speaker-mounted transformer is put on the speaker with masking tape and is run out of the chassis through and old Romex clamp. It won't be tube-direct but it idoes require line xfmrs for each speaker. Look at the size of that power transformer on the chassis! WOW! If it was done right, the geetar input should already be fairly high gain. Could mess with some power supply resistors and the coupling caps but I think LK has the right approach. Probly worth more to someone as-is than it would be as a cab driver. Although, now that I think about it, Chicago has it some LOUSY cab drivers!
  15. thedoctor
    Why a brass nut? Just for looks? It looks to me like that bass has a zero-fret so the nut material is less important. If you want brass, buy a piece of flat stock brass and file away. It works easy if your files are coarse enough to keep them from galling or filling up with brass. Read 3 or 4 tutorials on neck pocket routing again and pick one that makes sense to you and you are comfy with. Really, it ain't no thang. Anguilar is a nice pre system but there are other methods out there. I would have more of an opinion if I knew the pickups themselves were going to be active or not.
  16. thedoctor
    If a pickup is disconnected at one end and not, then, grounded or "killed" it CAN bring in noise OR cancel some signals to a small extent. I have never tried to recreate a problematic ground loop but I have made several by accident. I think that is why some of us have just made star grounding an integral part of design and construction. Got enough trouble getting it to LOOK decent. I see a lot of REALLY crappy wiring jobs with grounds going all over the place that don't have a noise problem. Go figure.
  17. thedoctor
    Looks to me like that amp is made for 75 volt output. Be careful there as each cab will need to be hooked thru a line transformer. That may not be what the speaker-mounted xfmr is for but it sure looks like it.
  18. thedoctor
    "To each his own I guess. wink.gif" Exactly, VK! I am only expressing MY opinion and the opinion of everyone from the planet Zephron. Greg, I know you know what a Telecaster is and I was just taking an oportunity to slam Carvin designs. Also, I am the pround holder of a doctorate in Knowlege Vaporous.
  19. thedoctor
    You just reminded me of the other guitar I wanted to include in that "worst guitar" thread that was started a day or two ago. Thank you!
  20. thedoctor
    That email you sent Ed Roaming is in the trash as we speak. Look a little more on today's posts and you will find a conspiracy in the works by Frank Falbo and others. Frank has a cool idea while he is in the Vegas area that should get Ed good and stirred up but I am considering an addition that might get him bodily throw out of the store and I don't think Frank would mind that, if I read him right.
  21. thedoctor
    Paul, I keep all those problematic things like the gear set and such in stock for Linemaster and Lincoln Electric footpedals. I like the piece of pinion/rack but it can be so much cheaper to just buy stuff that someone else has paid the manufacturing costs on. I think a Lincoln full-turn to tilt gear set is like $9.00. PM me and I will send you a stock set of gears NC. Can't improve on anything else, though. You and I have the exact same approach to "new stuff". Make a good prototype and, if it works well, make one better. Don't you just LOVE aluminum extrusions? Even just the dumb square-cornered channel and stuff. I make a 3-pedal control out of heatsink extrusion that is SO simple to put together, once you mill a bunch of the slots out.
  22. thedoctor
    I was looking at a speaker cabinet making forum the other day and two really cool items showed up that may or may not be relevent. The guys that make cool veneered cabinets don't use clamps to hold the veneer on while it gets normal. They put the whole damn thing in a heavy-duty plastic bag and hook it to a vacuum for a couple hours. WAY wierd!! They also use 3M contact adhesive. I think the best looking veneered cabinet I saw on the forum was a .052" oak veneer on a tower kinda thing. Beautiful veneer! My uncle uses the aliphatic system Wes or someone was talking about where he rolls glue on real thin to both parts and irons them together. He makes those 6 foot tall clocks and doesn't spend a lot of money on wood. He tried hide glue with the iron and said he couldn't get the edges to iron down and stay there.
  23. thedoctor
    Greg, please don't give me the link to Carvin. Those are not Telecasters. A while ago, before the acoustic-kinda Teles, some really cheap (Rogue?) company made a kinda carved Tele and it was just AWFUL looking. You are right. I would like to see a couple that have been done tastefully. With some class and style. That don't totally suck, as they say in the far west.
  24. thedoctor
    Check out Ed Roman's take on CNC guitars in some other part of this forum. Then ignore everything he says. Twice, if possible. Just found it. It's called "Why does everyone hate Ed Roman?" I don't got the smarts to do that "link" thing or I would.
  25. thedoctor
    Okay, idtch, you got this coming. You worry about the weight and you are gonna put a BIXXXXX on it? To quote the late Gilda Radner, "You talk like man with paper butthole!" I have given that belly contour some thought and I can't see where it would hurt a thing. I guess I am going to do that to the Tele I am building right now to see if it makes that forearm square part a little easier to live with. Where can you send me to see a really good example of a carved-top Tele that looks pretty good? I probly haven't looked at enough of them to even have a valid opinion. I am always up for a learning thang!
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