stiggz

well, you could make the template easier than you think, but you have to establish a few things first, scale length and number of frets, whether the headstock will be angled or not, body style (where the fretboard comes to on the body), and your thickness' at the nut and at twelfth fret. another thing to consider is laminating first and then cutting, less cutting to be done, and when you have a glued up blank its may be easier to true up the fretboard mounting face. simply get all ur measurments together, get a large peice of paper, and start buy drawing ur fretboard face, thenfigure where you're putting the nut, mark it, measure to the 12th mark it, measure you're thickness at both nut and 12 and mark those, work out you're headstock angle and where the heel is going, and then connect the dots. cut it out glue on to some mdf, cut out around those lines finish it up with some sand paper, and ur done. hope that helps luke *Edit* use a dust mask when doing anything with mdf, its carcinogenic

fair enough i see where you're coming from, but it was a very quickly written post. but, back on topic if you measure well (measure twice cut once) then there should be no issue with the positioning, and if you make sure you have a centre line, and align templates etc to that, you should be laughing. use the bridge locator to find your stud positioning, then use the template either from stewmac or one you made from the FR website, then it is just a matter of routing, following the template, i have done this on my RG170 coverting to a OFR easy as pie.

just get a block of wood, cut to size (either the cavity or the block), glue in, sand flush paint over, that would be the easiest option IMO

Would suggest you run your posts through a spelling check before you post next time. You might sound cool among your 12 year old friends, but on on here. Dont you have somthing better to do? My spelling normally isnt that bad, measurements, is one, the "templates and" and "length" most of these are missed keystrokes, a post knocked out quickly for the mailmans thread. You, on the other hand may want to consider your grammar. FYI im not 12, i have just finished yr 12 (final year, with close to a 90% grade) luke

hmm a 2x4 with strings... wait isnt that a squire? id be more than willing to enter next month except i think we should make it the limit 10 days, cos a week only allows 1 weekend, unless we start on a sunday and finish on a sunday.... food for thought anyhow luke

wat he said. seriously using a router isnt that hard, make urself a perspex or mdf templateand visit here for assistance with mesurements, or you u can get routing templates from stewmac also have a look here it may help with the positioning of the bridge bridge locator enter ur scale lenght and number of frets etc, this finds where ur studs will have to go relative to the nut. luke

you could glue the extension on to the body, but it would be better IMO to replace the fret board, but if ur not up to that, then by all means the extension will look good. luke

i think the only problem you may have is that it is already fretted, could be a bitch to trim down, and u'd have to re-dress the ends of the frets. luke

thats a brilliant idea, its like swaping barbie's clothes depending on ur mood, lol have fun with ur barbie luke

there is no set "right distance" for all trems, string guages, or setups, if u want ur trem level or slightly below level then wind the screws in ur claw in so the spring tension is higher, or if ur trem is below level and u want it level back the screws off untill u are happy. you will have to do this every time u change between string guages (eg from 9's to 11's) luke *edit* didnt mention that u dont have the claw flush with the back of the cavity *edit#2* the bridge isnt actually a speedloader, its just cheap crap

i wouldnt worry about it, silicon adhesives and sealants are to a certain degree the same thing, well i used liquid nails to hold the rod in my bass, its not gonna come out any time soon luke

as has been said before you are only limited by ur imagination, and the size of ur wallet. ive had good success with indonesian amoora, i had some sitting around so i used it sounds warm-ish, pretty well rounded ash is also a good 1 to use, heard many good things bout it luke

i personally love the sound and feel of new strings, i change mine when i feel they need to be changed, in the summer/wet season i do it bout once a month cos of the humidity, but in the winter/dry season bout every 3 months. luke

well theres not much difference between floaters (hahaha) and directmounting other than the ring.. luke

noice i like it

i did what warmoth does with an active bass i finished a while ago, except i boxed it in with some extra wood glued in, rather than routing that in there, works well, but as other have said dont put it somewhere where there would be stress or strain. luke

thanks guys, after staring at it for a while ive grown to like it a little more, so i think i will clear over it probably next week when the weather clears up a bit. here is the headstock re-done, while we are on the subject of corona's a mate put me on to them bout 2 weeks ago, and they are the best! especially with lime, luke

i dunno i bought half a litre of each colour, and that only used about 3 teaspoons of each, so i may take another crack, i did the headstock as well, but it is pretty...crap really, but i think the paint was a little too thick, so i may thin it a bit on all of my trial runs i never got sags or runs, dunno f i will keep or not... i shall wait untill it dries moreand then see if i can rub the runs back a bit. luke

Auccually I would advise aganist this. Mabey on an old guitar I don't trust, but on a brand new fender I would -wan't- the extra string tension to make it sound better because 12 strings, cheap guitars, and fenders are overbuilt. That guitar has all three. Thus you would want more string tension to help drive that massive top with oodles of unscalloped bracing. ← wat the...? that made very little sense, Well in my experience tuning to D makes it alot more versatile, taking the harsh tension that u can get on the upper stringsand higher up the fretboard, i assume its 25.4" scale, yes? i have an ibanez rg that i turned into a 12-string, and the tension on that was high to say the least, and when i droped the tuning it felt alot better and sounded better. the tension will also not get more sound out of the top if it has un carved bracing, bigger wavelenght vibrations with a lower frequency will do that, hence detuning correct me if im wrong luke

you answered you own question there, just make sure you measure the stud-to-stud distance, and refer to any documentation u got with the bridge in regards to installation luke

hey everyone, did my first swirl yesterday,i think its a little too busy down near the armrest let us know wat u think luke

i think i might do somthing like that, but what is an exacto knife? im not sure we have anything of the sort here in oz

wow thats an interesting idea, a couple of points you may (or may not) have overlooked is the holes where the strings come through the bottom of the bridge, if your strings come through to the bridge at an angle then the holes on the bridge will have to be eliptical. As goes for the ferrules, i dunno how one would get them to sit neatly, or you could ge a machinists shop to machine some ferrules that would sit flush. but apart from those minor cosmetic details i think it is a killer idea. keep it up luke

if u can get anything other than bass wood go for it, u fart near the basswood and it dints

well untill i played an aanj or more recently my neck through i thought the gibson neck joints were the bee's knee's, i have pretty big hands so i have never had any trouble reaching around them, other comments about that guitar, sure the neck joint looks alright, but they have just destroyed the essence of a les paul with the trem and the sustainer, well its killed it for me anyway. luke