ScottR

I'm remembering all the grief I caught for building such a dark guitar. Yours reminds me of an ice cream sandwich when you can see some of the sides. It's going to be spectacular! Have you made hardware choices (chrome, black, cream)? I can't remember if you said on the first page and it was so long ago. Nice inclusion of the CNC in the shots too. SR

I suspect that you will have to point out your neck "flaws" before anyone sees them when this is completed. The rest of the build will completely overshadow them. SR

Good color combo, methinks. Too bad you don't have any scrap from that fretboard--pup rings out of that would go nicely as well. SR

Make sure you leave enough room between the heads to tune one without de-tuning the other. SR

Either way will work. I typically use game plan #2. One thing you don't need to worry about: with that template (in either form) it will alway look like an LP from the front as the fretboard will hide any contouring you do from that view point. Avengers did an LP with a contoured neck join a couple of years ago. You might still be able to find it with some digging. It may have been his LP junior. Looking forward to see how this comes out. Good luck....both with the build and the addition to your family. Scott

The set I had RAD make for me was wired to vintage specs, and then to make the bridge a little hotter he "gave it a few extra wraps". I love them. For my tastes, the tone is perfect. SR

I'm not aware of any tutorial, but here is a link to the thread to that build: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=44623 In short, draw out your body shape without a tongue or hump to accept the neck heel. Route your neck pocket and set the neck when you are at that stage of the build. Then blend the heel into your neck carve and the body. Once you get it shaped fairly close to what you think is good, grip it like you're playing the highest fret and test the feel. Any place it streches your hand or presses more than other areas, carve a little more away. Use a rasp and course sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to blend it from the body shape to the neck carve. When it feels comfortable and looks good, start your finish sanding. Mine has a healthy scoop carved into the cutaway on the front side as well the bevel on the back. They both add to comfort and ease of access and are blended into the neck - body join. SR

I clamp my portable by the handle up side down in my bench vise. Makes for a quick mount - quick release setup. I use it that way at least as much as hand held. Have fun! SR

It bears repeating. Outstanding job.....outstanding job......outstanding job.......outstanding job...... How does it sound? do you like the P-90s? SR

Highly reflective, I think we got a tour of your place in the reflections. Looks like the Christmas tree is up. Did you polish through tip of the treble horn? SR

I couldn't see it either. I couldn't decide if I was blind or if Pros was pushing your buttons. SR

i owe a big favour to my friend Scott Walker who has helped me the most he could to understand the whole procedure... take a look at this masterpiece.... scott walker guitars I actually like yours better. This is not something that would normally appeal to me, but on yours the color patterns look very good, even planned, plus you get the patina of oxidized metal. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. Nice job. SR

Yeah, but who accused you of being a mere mortal? SR

That mock up is almost exactly what I was seeing in my head...with maybe just a hint of the honey gold in the middle. I think your ideas about concentrations are spot on. Check out Andy's GOTM entrant for this month. He says in his thread that his burst was all wipe on dyes. Lastly....never say never. This stuff is addictive. I barely play, already have two, have no concept of sales.......and the urge to build another is growing stronger every day. SR

Very interesting effect. I certainly looks like oxidized copper and bronze. It even has a metallic sheen. It makes me think of some of the processes NotYou would do, which is a high complement. SR

Man, your finishes keep getting better and better. This is very very nice. SR

Actually those colors are exactly what I'm seeing as well. Honeyburst....yeah. I'm thinking a nice honey colored amber in the middle...or the shade of a nice ale with a burst around the edges the shade of a good Irish red. That wood in the top looks so good and it want to retain a little of its identity, at least that's what it's saying to me. I see lines of bubbles rising from the bottom of a glass of beer in the grain and spalt patterns as well. A burst of dark reddish amber (like an Irish red) would tie in nicely with the Padouk stripes in your neck. SR

I had to put a bigger shim than that in my first one. It is nearly impossible to see. Yours will be invisible when you are done! SR

Dude.......you're killin' me. Those black MOP stripes are soooo cool.....and sooooo beyond what us mere mortals can do. SR

This is looking verrrrry nice.....are you sure you want to make it green? SR

Interesting. I get the impression that doing the angle on the neck pocket is easier in the end. Done at an early stage of the project, when you still have a flat surface where to mount your pocket template, it's just a matter of angling the template accordingly. Usually is what I do. Later on, only if I need a minor correction on the angle, I adjust the neck tenon. But the truth is that as long as your angle is not too dramatic (only applicable to full neck width tenons, anyway), you should not have any problem with either approach. Perhaps I should elaborate. So far all my builds have featured long tenons (10"-12"). These have a pocket routed into the body to a uniform depth--the same thickness as the tenon. The neck is set and the tenon is machined flush with the top surface of the body. Then the top is glued on. Putting the angle in the tenon seems the best way to achieve that construction. The relevant point is the same as you made....it works just fine, and also like you said, it must be full width as well. SR

That's what I do to get my neck angles. SR

Whoa! Paulie, Paulie, Paulie, you been holdin' out on us man. To quote a guy I admire a lot......that rising sun top is fookin awesome! I'm not exactly sold on the fat chick ass finish, but what are you gonna do, the customer wants a fat chick ass, give him a fat chick ass. SR

Beautiful tele Chad. I'd love to hear how it sounds. As far as the fret goes, I've done exactly what you've described on my first guitar and it's held up for three years so far. The next option is to pull it, fill the slot, recut and seat a new one, or pull it and swell the wood around the slot like they discussion here: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=45966. You may as well try the CA and clamp first though. You can always pull it and work on the slot if that doesn't work out. Scott

Amen Mike. Masterful work BD, just masterful. SR