ScottR

That is one well seasoned chisel. What is the hole in the first fret slot for? It looks like it was drilled on purpose. SR

I seems like there was a very nice figured birch top in the GTOM last fall(?). Maybe late summer. It had a deep blue green finish I think. Very nicely executed build. SR

Heat will definitely affect adhesion...of just about anything....tape, T-shirts, bugs on the windshield . We see a bit of that here too. I wonder how much Paulie sees in Dublin? I don't think I've seen that suretape before. Where are you getting it? SR

Hey Paulie. I have used that blue scotch (3M) tape that says you can leave it on 14 days too. I think it was on ebony and bocote and while I don't remember any fibers coming up, I did have a hard time getting all the adhesive residue off. This was a new formula--at least I haven't seen it before--called "for delicate surfaces". The adhesive reminds me of what's on those sticky note pads as much as anything. A bit tackier. It went on easy, stuck down well, and pulled up easily and cleanly. Of course it was only on long enough to level and crown the frets. It will get a longer test when it's time to spray. I'm looking forward to seeing some of yours, it's been a while mate. The green beastie still waiting for you to get some free time? SR

It's funny you brought that up. I was looking at the list where you have four threads lined up and thinking that's a lot for you to keep up with. Two of them are in pretty much the same stage so you are pretty much repeating yourself. For the record my first thought was to agree with John and that's how I voted, but.... if the story's the same, maybe you ought to combine a couple of builds and see how you like it. That way you could describe it once and show pictures of both. If they are all different style guitars with their own seperate issues, then give them a separate thread. I certainly enjoy all the separate threads, but I don't enjoy repeating myself and I don't imagine anyone else does either. SR

I'll bet it looks glossier this time around. SR

Good tip. Pay attention folks, lots of good tips here. I like the chucked up rasp too. SR

The Tele with the binding isn't the one with the contour EDIT: I must learn to read everything properly before making any comments. Of course, Chad has routed for a binding on the contoured guitar AHA! I knew I wasn't the only one that did that! SR

Blue and orange make an ugly greenish brown. Be sure to test first. SR

No question. BUT...... Unless you seal it, the oils & resins WILL bleed up to the surface. This will make the wood darken and look like crap. Your best bet for sealing up cocobolo is shellac. Just a couple of coats will still leave the wood feeling natural if you rub it out with steel wool. I'm thinking more along the lines of wiping it down with lacquer thinner and then rubbing in a coat of danish oil. I don't mind if it gets a little darker...it's a bit busy. Sweet. Amazing. Why do customers always ask what I offer as an alternative to coco??? I got news for you meatheads it doesn't get much better than cocobolo. I dunno. It is easily one of my very favorites. The look, smell, feel, the way it polishes up is just beautiful. I even like to take small pieces and amaze the neighborhood kids by showing it sinking in a glass of water. Wood that won't float just cracks me up. I haven't had any problems with that personally. I do make a point to blow the dust off myself and the work area frequently and take precautions not to breath it. I used to wash up carefully after working it, but have forgotten to without any issues. No doubt that it bothers some people though. SR

Every time I look at this it makes me think of a Tommy gun. I just picture Al Capone holding that thing and spraying the room with....sound? I don't know why SR

Deano, this is cool as sh!t. I missed the first post when I was out for Christmas. So this is what cost you some flesh and blood, huh? I really like the chambers and top carves and tail piece. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out.. SR

And finally for we set the neck. I could reach the tenon just off the end of the fretboard with a clamp, so I did. Then I covered the tenon with a thin piece of polycarbonate (plastic) and placed an off cut just smaller than the tenon on that. and laid some thick acrylic across that to clamp against. Gettin' late time to quit for today. SR

Now I've got to finish the neck, everything but the blending of the join to the body. time to polish up the fretboard and headstock. Man don't you just love cocobolo? I ended up going back and getting medium tall fret wire from Stew Mac. They come straight so I built a little fret wire bender based on posts here on PG. Fretted. I found some new (to me anyway) 3M blue paint mask that is formulated for delicate surfaces. It is very thin and sticky and yet peels up easily and cleanly as it turns out. Good Stuff! SR

So now the top is cut out and the mating surfaces of the top and body have been sanded flat on the iron table. I clamped the top in position on top of the body and marked locations for the neck and bridge and most importantly, the pickups. I countersunk some pilot holes and screwed the top into the body in the spot for the pickup routes and outside of the neck tenon. With the top screwed firmly in place. I use a pattern following bit and route the top to match the body...using the body as the template. Now we locate the neck on the body, and build routing guides out of some 1" acrylic that I happen to have. Pocket(mortise)routed. I had a bad spot in my acrylic guide that I didn't see. It will get filled with epoxy and buried. This might turn into a guitar. SR

Did you get this sorted, Tom? SR

I was going to let the folks that have done more than one TOM answer this..... Ok, I'll go first. I waited till I had the bridge and tail piece and measured them. I don't recall what the actual measurements were, only that they were perfect for the bridge in hand. I expect that's the way I'll always do it. SR

Of course we do. Keep them coming. SR

The cross is a nice touch for a church base. That's a pretty serious gift there. It looks right at home in the outdoor pics. SR

Haven't you mentioned painting pickups or pickup covers before? SR

When you routed the binding channel in the arm contour area, were you able to keep the bottom edge of the channel 90 degrees to the sides, or is it parallel to the angle of the contour? A guitar's education can not begin too early. Just like with children, you need teach them to love music while still in the womb. SR

Nah, I was just curious. +1 +2 Well, when I want an oil finish at least. For instance, I will use Watco danish oil on the neck I am currently building and only as much as will soak in. I don't want any sitting on the surface. And it is extremely hard wood. The rest will get lacquer. SR

I remember a post a year or so ago where the guy used a polymerized tung oil that looked great. I think it built a film and was essentially to tung oil what Tru-Oil is to linseed oil. (Polymerized). I am a fan of watco danish oil and have tried watco teak oil...which IIRC turned out to be nearly the same thing as the danish oil. Have not tried Behlin's. I'm looking forward to your verdict.....and will be watching for the suburbans. SR

RAD, I forgot to ask. What kind of oil are putting on this? SR

Jig saws can cut drop tops fine. On full body thickness cuts the blade tends to move off of vertical which will leave much extra work cleaning up your cuts. However it can be done. Check out Scatter Lee's builds and you'll see he drills many relief holes along the cut path and then cuts the body out with a jig saw. These days made in china can mean the tool is crap or it can mean the tool is made to high quality standards with cheap labor. If it's a reputable company getting tools made in China, odds are the quality is fine. If it's a Harbor Freight house brand...not so much. SR