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ScottR

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Everything posted by ScottR

  1. ScottR
    Yeah, I think that's it. Don't those ususally have some kind of wrap tied around the part closest to the head to make it stick out like that? Save any of that recon dust? SR
  2. ScottR
    Hah. I actually had your picture in mind when dewrag popped into my head. SR
  3. ScottR
    I have gotten that at Home Depot and Lowes. I do tend to prefer the 30 minute stuff over the 5 minute though. My gluing philosophy is pretty similar to yours Wes. And according to a link RAD posted in iluvtele's thread, too much clamp pressure on epoxy is not really a problem either. SR
  4. ScottR
    Just put a dewrag on him, and maybe some pointed ears... SR
  5. ScottR
    No, it was marketed as a 'window cling' - that way i'd have more control over the adhesive used.... Window cling, aka static cling, clings to very smooth surfaces because it has a very high level of plasticizers in it. That creates an almost oily film that holds it to the glass. That may be what is keeping your adhesive from curing...or it may be curing but just won't stick to the "cling". When we print on it here, we often have to wipe the excess plasticizers off with alchohol to get the ink to stick to it. You should probably at least do that and then test your adhesive by applying it to the vinyl and seeing if it will stick. Did you save any scrap? SR
  6. ScottR
    The bridge makes it look like he just spit out his braces. And now that it is strung up, I've just realized that to play it, he'll be pickin' his nose....unless he plays finger style, which could possibly cause him to thumb his nose. SR BTW, I take it the vinyl wasn't adhesive backed?
  7. ScottR
    Even if you get runs you can level them out after curing a few weeks and then polish it like lacquer. I Like to use micromesh through all the grades and then a polishing compound. I beleive I remember Quarter saying he levels every three coats and actually thins the oil and sprays the final few coats with an airbrush. SR
  8. ScottR
    You need your nut and your bridge width. Lay them out at the proper scale length and draw a line to represent the two outside strings (bass and treble). Add the amount of space you prefer from the string to each edge of your fretboard, usually 1/8" to 3/16". and there you have your taper. SR
  9. ScottR
    Additionally to SwedishLuthier's response, they would have an even bigger advantage over split humbuckers in that using only one coil out of the pair in an HB has considerably less output than the full HB and than a P-90 or most single coils as I understand it. RAD or SL (and many others I'm sure) can expand on the why's and wherefore's of that, but yeah, I'd say that is an advantage over a split humbucker. SR
  10. ScottR
    This maybe an odd thing to comment on, but I think that Norton 3X sandpaper is the best on the market...fast cutting, slow clogging, long lasting...relatively speaking when compared with other paper backed sandpapers. SR
  11. ScottR
    What the heck is a cucumbertree? I'm familiar with the rest, although I've only run across the name Kentucky coffeetree. Amiee, you should check out some of that osage orange for your next longbow. It was prized for bow making by the Osage Indians where I grew up (where, not when) and their bows were prized and traded for by all the other tribes in the area. SR
  12. ScottR
    I did a prototype out of bubinga before I made my first guitar. It had a contoured back. It was the most difficult wood I've worked with to shape and sand smooth...more difficult than jatoba. It's just so dang hard and dense. It was worth it though. It looked great. Kind of wasted on a prototype though. SR
  13. ScottR
    Love the recon stone fret markers but am worried about the poly scarf. Does it feel strong? SR
  14. ScottR
    I normally use a rabbitting bit to do that....but you apparently don't need no stinkin' rabitt bit. Nice display of control. This build is a breath of fresh air and a great pleasure to watch. Great job and thanks for sharing. SR
  15. ScottR
    I like the neck transition and the sculpting you've done on the back. SR
  16. ScottR
    +1 very clean design and flowing lines. Definitely a surf vibe. SR
  17. ScottR
    Man, I know next to nothing about this issue, but one thing I have found is if the outlet you are plugging into is not properly grounded, and having a three hole receptical is no guaranty that the outlet is grounded, then your (or at least my) amp will buzz. Odds are it's a ground issue. Have you tried other outlets or another building to see if you get the same thing? SR
  18. ScottR
    There used to be a cat like that at my house.... SR
  19. ScottR
    Nope. It carries the theme nicely. But I'll throw an alternative suggestion at you. Figure a way to tie in the drop point at the bottom instead, then choose between the two. I do think it will flow better if you move the upper part on the bass side another quarter to half inch closer to the outer edge of the upper bout. I like the way that runs parallel to both upper and lower bouts. SR
  20. ScottR
    Well, I'll be darned. I was afraid that might be the real answer. I sure comes out nice. SR
  21. ScottR
    BTW, how do you carmalize maple? SR
  22. ScottR
    That came out very nice Grant. Very clean, especially considering the number of woods involved. The control panel is kind of all alone though. I think something dark to balance the fretboard and claro would be nice, though amber would work too. SR
  23. ScottR
    Tom, I've been meaning to ask; what are the positions on your 4-way switch? Neck, bridge and both are probably givens, but what is the fourth position for? SR
  24. ScottR
    Welcome....and good luck. You are going to have a blast. At the very least you got a great excuse for more tools . SR
  25. ScottR
    Well the newpaper showing through the F-hole is throwing me off a bit . Seriously, it looks good enough to eat. It looks like cotton candy. Can't wait to see it with the toner coats and burst. This may be your best yet. SR
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