MiKro

That's interesting? How long did you let it cure? I've only experienced problems with the spray can version on small projects and did not let it cure well before hitting it with the buffer. I use deft for cabinets ( have for years ) and have never had a problem as well on Guitars. I do let it cure for 10 days per coat applied though. Have never had an issue. Maybe it's because I use the brushing lacquer and spray IT I usually reduce with thinner by 10% to 20 %. It flows nicely, has less problems with humidity and levels very nicely. I don't like the spray version at all though. Well I learn something new everyday. So I guess I have been lucky. I use an old automotive type gun and devilbiss touchup gun. I run about 46Lbs pressure on the touchup and about 62 lbs on the big gun. I also use a good inline moisture trap and drier as well, no problems even in humidity up to 70%. The retarder in the brushing lacquer helps with Blushing problems it seems. Must be more careful though about airborne particles as the flash time is a little longer. Just my observations over the 100+ gallons or so I've sprayed over the years. Mike

It will help with alignment. but maybe not as much as you hope. Just be aware of that. I haven't used my Bjoiner in years, just to much wasted time as far as my cabinet work. I use pocket hole screws now. MK

In actuality, biscuits only align, They do not add any strength to the joint. Just an FYI, so for future builds don't waste the time. Now if you are looking for strength, then use a T&G joint or at minimum a lap joint, or maybe a full length spline. or a multiple finger joint. But really with the widths of most solid bodies and the fact that we USUALLY will make the body pieces NOT using End grain then the joint, if well fitted will be stronger than the surrounding wood using a good wood glue. Just my observations from use and also Reading many, many articles on the subject over the years. MK

wet sanding to 400 all over then clear is fine. Just make sure you clean the residue of the wet sand off very well. Any small depressions or grain not filled completely, may fill with the residue and look white under the clear coat. Good Luck MK

If it bothers you then do an airbrush burst on the headstock, shoot the edges and sides of the headstock with black and fade to wood or some translucent color. Otherwise just leave it and move on. MK

I like it the way it is!!!! Looks good!! MK

So why no Pics of the headstock Matt? Maybe we can help with the paint color? Looks very nice!!! MK

Good tip. I have a case that a cheap set of router bits came in, but it probably won't last. I will make a wooden stand for them as you suggest. Also, I read somewhere that WD40 actually will clean bits. Haven't tried it yet, but I have a 1/2" bit that is gummed up from routing pine that I will try it on. Just use "Easy Off" oven cleaner, it will clean your bits, saw blades and whatever. just flush with some water after a brush off and blow dry. It will cut the worst of the worst pitch and gunk build up. If dried quickly, no rust. Just let it sit for the specified time, 10 minutes or so and WHOOOOOPPEEE, CLEAN AND SHINY MK

CDR files are Corel Draw

Very nice Weston, Looks great! !!!! MK

Hi Andy, The main problem I see with your idea is this. Lacquer and Poly DO NOT MIX!!! They won't stick to each other. So use one or the other. If you want some toner colors under the poly then use dewaxed shellac and tint it the color you want. This will work under poly or lacquer. Just my .02cents worth. Mike edited to add: If you use Bullseye shellac. get the seal coat shellac, not the finish shellac. The seal coat does not have wax, the finish shellac does,(Thats the milky stuff in it) MK

Just an FYI, hopefully the new Mods , myself included are combating this problem with more aggression. It is also YOU the members that help with this as well, How you ask? By reporting the SPAM. I know that myself and the other Mods would like to take the time to thank each of you that report this problem each time you report, and most times we don't acknowledge your efforts. So to all of you that do and also have reported Spam, Thank you!!!!!!! and please continue with the reports. This is your forum, so speak up about the abuse. Again Thank you all, keep up the good work, Sincerely, Mike

Come on by!! Would like to see ya! Mike

Thanks Weston, As far as all going well In my haste I miss measured the tuner holes What was I thinking??? So I have since drilled and plugged the holes, added veneers. Then after looking at it ,(the headstock) just doesn't quite fit with the theme. So, now I'm redoing it again. Have added wings for more width and will be redoing the veneers again I'm trying to remember to get pics of the process for those that want to see how I did it. Mike Thanks Quarter!! Hopefully it will be done soon. MK

Very very nice, I hope we as a group may finish OUR tribute Bass someday. It seems when many have a task, they ALL fail at some point, therefore slowing the process of ONE who has a dedication to himself and his belief in his role. I for one have been just as guilty of failing in OUR project. ( The BP Blues Bass Tribute) Thank you for your want of doing for someone that had meaning in your world, and also bringing to light the very essence of what is happening in this world. APATHY will be the undoing of all of us. It is time for ALL to find the time for Others and Sacrifice a few minutes each day and PAY IT FORWARD. Sorry ALL didn't mean to get on my SOAPBOX, just food for thought!! Sincerely, Mike

LOL, Well Wez, what's keeping ya from doin it? Just wait until the next evolutions of my resos? Picture this. An archtop, with cantilever neck, TOM bridge, and the reso cone mounts from the rear. Add a fishman reso pickup and a neck pickup humbucker or single coil, with active electronics. Sounds kinda weird? But that's where I'm heading with this. Mike

Thanks everyone for the kind words. The pictures do not do the Birdseye justice this wood is stunning in real life:) Chris, The body is based off of a 000. The upper bout is about 1inch less as is the waist. The lower bout is approx 1- 1/2 inches less. the overall length is also 1-1/4 inch less. The body depth has been reduced to 3 1/2 inches. Now the neck, It is basically a straight forward bolt on without a tenon. Very common on Resos. Only change was the addition of the cantilever extension. The pics I post will hopefully explain it. My next neck will most likely incorporate the Doolin adjustable tenon as well. Mike

Maybe some Nashville ABR1 conversions would work? link Just a thought? MK

Well after the last one failed Here's the new reso I'm working on. I roundneck with biscuit type cone. I'm using a bolt on, cantilever neck as well. Top wood is striped african mahogany. The back and sides are quilted birds eye maple with curly maple/black walnut bindings. The neck is a 5 piece lam of curly maple and black walnut, with malagasy rosewood fretboard. I have gotten the first clear coats on the body in the past few days. So far this build has gone very well. ( let's hope that keeps up ) link link link Thanks for looking!!! Mike

Not Sure what I said? Somehow my post didn't show????? The alcohol is the solvent and you can wash off most of what you put on other than what gets into the pores. Even still you can lighten that as well. by doing alcohol washes. Now as I see it you will never get true Black from shellac unless you tint it until it's not opaque. Therefore, you just made black shellac!. I do this all the time for my burst. YOU will not get complete black without losing grain. Now if you are trying to get the grain black and and sand back you will not get it black then as well. It is the the toner color that covers the darker ( from the black stain) that will make the grain appear DARKER. Hope this helps? MK

May I suggest that before you apply the black. That you shoot at least one clear coat . This will seal the tape edges and prevent bleeding under your tape of the black You will get a crisper edge on your color. Just a suggestion, Mike

Well, I hope you are using something better than C grade Ply. I mean, there is a LARGE difference between Finnish Birch Cabinet Grade 7 to 9 ply vs. C grade 3 ply with voids. so please let us know what you are using? Just for reference, as Rich said those that may want to go on the cheap need to know as they may get the wrong Info AS TO PLYWOOD as there are many grades. Just my .02 cents worth!! Mike

The OLD SCHOOL Lace effect was made using the same technique, it was laid over and used as a mask. I'm sure the new way is done in a more efficient manor but the chicken wire or LACE effect was used many many years ago. It should work but I would try it on a scrap wood first. Just my .02 cents MK

Here is a great site that may help you understand how to use the pearl additives. It's a complicated process sometimes depending on what you are trying to achieve. I have used it on wood in my tints and in my clears. It does obscure the grain if too much additive. As far as base coats, some work better with dark others with light color bases. Like I said, look at this site and read some of the tips they have. you may find the answer you are looking for. Paint With Pearl Link Hope it helps. MK

Agreed a classic style and thanks for the kind words!! MK