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MiKro

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  1. MiKro
    Update, I got some time and managed to get the back on and started forming the bottom binding. I also built a new jig. It's working out well so far. It will allow me to work on anything from Ukes to Jumbo's Link MK
  2. MiKro
    You are welcome, glad to help, MK
  3. MiKro
    Thx Andy!! mk
  4. MiKro
    Okay Traveler sent me a pic so here it is for all to see and digest the problem. at time of this post I have not studied the photo. link to another pic Mike
  5. MiKro
    I agree BONDO works great for many things including your problem. just remember to use a good primer on it as it will absorb some of your finish at a different rate than the wood, so to get an even finish use a good primer overall. edited to add: one more thing about BONDO it expands and contracts to the material it is bonded to therefore reducing telltale cracks and crazes that show up with other types of fillers. Just my .02 cents MK
  6. MiKro
    Traveler, Hard to say, A pic would help. What's the temp and humidity like at the time of spraying? So many varibles. So really A good PIC would help someone work through this and help. MIke
  7. MiKro
    Ditto on the links not working
  8. MiKro
    Very Nice Andy, BTW do you know where I can get some replacement pushpulls for my meerschams without having to buy 100+ of them. The only place I have found is pipemakers.org, but must spend $100 min. and thats about 144 pushpulls. I only need 5 LOL:) Then I can repair most of my pipes and have 2 spares Mike
  9. MiKro
    Thats great but I think it needs one more control! First setting I'm so lame (vain), next should be SRV and then JIMI )) I'll take two of them but only if it really works!!!!!!!!!!! LMAO!!!!!!
  10. MiKro
    TITEBOND stock holders love you!!!!!!!!!!! Kidding!! MK
  11. MiKro
    Thx Jon, I hope I can get back to work on it and the others soon. So much to do outside of these and no time to do it )) Oh well !! Priorities, Priorities, I hate getting old and having to be responsible. LOL MK
  12. MiKro
    First off if you are not sure then have professional do it. I own a Construction and Remodelling company and very aware of electrical needs but I will not put myself at liability advising you HOW to take this on and anyone here that does is acting FOOLISHLY in todays litigious society. AGAIN I cannot over emphasize the need for a professional if you are not sure what to do, if not ,then at least talk with your City electrical engineer. They will help you make the right decision if you ask. YOU may want to ask this question at a different forum. I would suggest the Breaktime forum at link Just some friendly advice from someone that cares about your health and safety Mike
  13. MiKro
    Not sure what most think but my thought is, One solid piece of wood, not including the fretboard or maybe a heel cap. otherwise it's laminated together in some way or another? A heel cap is for asthetics, so is a headstock overlay, a fretboard is needed. so any thing else means it's more that ONE piece of wood with glue joints a far as the structure of the neck. So that's my take on it. JMHO!!!!!!!! mk
  14. MiKro
    Hi Weston, Not much to report , been very busy with some personal stuff. I did manage to get the neck glued up and rough cut though, I ended up using a 7 lam instead of 5 though. I think it will look nice. I also made a new jig. No pics of that yet,I am still working on some of the details. I saw your build and it looks like it came out great!. I hope it plays as well as you expected? Call me sometime or come by for a brew. Thanks, Mike
  15. MiKro
    Here's the formula. thickness (inches) x width (inches) x length (feet) ÷ 12 = board feet If you use inches for the length then divide by 144 or try this link. Link MK
  16. MiKro
    Bottom line is if you are correct on the mix, and equipment adjustment, temp and humidity your ORANGE PEEL should not exist. Hence better coverage( and level), less level sanding and a better finish. But That all depends on the base prep being correct. Then again what the hell do I know, Ive got the flu and drugged up and have never finished a piece of wood. LOL just had to mess with ya!!!!! MK
  17. MiKro
    It must be the flu and nyquil i have, good catch Erik. LOL I knew I was missing something there??? Just couldn't think clear so I jumped in with both feet in my butt LOL!! MK
  18. MiKro
    Not sure what the deal is on that? Are the saddles maybe installed upside down and the hight adjustment screws in wrong, hiding the string guide slots? Otherwise it looks like it was machined wrong?? Good luck!! Hope someone else can clear it up for you. MK
  19. MiKro
    AHHHHHHHHHH!!! The old Ki$$ A$$ theory. It still works doesn't it? Good tip Vinny!!!!!! You'd be surprised what people will do when someone shows some kindness, even if it has undertones for something misguided. :D LMAO!!!! Take care Vinny, Sincerely, Mike
  20. MiKro
    First off, where are you? That may help others that are in your area to help you find a local dealer for your needs. If you are in Texas let me know where and I'm sure myself or some others can help you find what you want. Otherwise check Gilmer woods as a possible supply. A little pricey but quality wood. BTW: Welcome the PG link mk
  21. MiKro
    sry double post ????
  22. MiKro
    Wes I have used Micromesh for years. May I suggest that you use mineral spirits as a lubricant, as this will make your investment in MM last longer and make cleanup of the same much more pleasant. Mineral spirits will not harm most finishes that are used by most here and will not harm the wood or raise grain as water will. I have found that my MM will last about twice as long using the MS as not using it. Just a friendly suggestion to a friend!!!! Sincerely, Mike
  23. MiKro
    I think he covered that. MK
  24. MiKro
    Look up Doug at Soulmate link Well Rich you beat me to it LOL:) must have been in REPLY mode at the same time. I just type SLOOOOOWWWWWWWWWW! MK
  25. MiKro
    TRy Doug at soulmateguitars.com Doug is a member here at PG link mk
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