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Mender

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Everything posted by Mender

  1. Oh, my mistake. I couldn't make out the hole for the trem arm, or even the cam where the hole would be. Aaaargh! I've been wrong twice in one week! My reputation is ruined
  2. The truss rod is offset from centre, and presumably, runs parallel to centre. Also Ibanez have used 1 truss rod since the RG2228 came out, so if its good enough for them. I was going by what Huff said here:
  3. The Tele with the binding isn't the one with the contour EDIT: I must learn to read everything properly before making any comments. Of course, Chad has routed for a binding on the contoured guitar
  4. That isn't a Kahler tremolo, it is a Kahler fixed bridge. Looking at the thickness of the top, and the bridge recess only appearing to be a tiny amount, perhaps 1/16" deep, there should be plenty of wood there to hold the screws firmly.
  5. Mounting a trussrod diagonally sounds a bit silly to me. I would have thought that would help to create a twist in the neck, which rather defeats the object of the excercise
  6. That top may be bleached, or just very pale maple or similar wood. It seems to be coated with translucent white, which is basically clear with a bit of white mixed with it
  7. Of course, you could have two volume controls, a 500k for the humbucker, and a 250k for the single coils, and just have a single tone control.
  8. Most decent guitars will give good sustain if played through good amps. Gary Moore played Strat, Tele, Les Paul, Explorer - he played dozens of different guitars, and he always got incredible sustain, but he also had great tone to go with it
  9. My thought also until I realized it is a rail pickup Ah yes Okay, let's pretend I didn't mention that then I would still go for rotating the pickup though
  10. The way pickups are made, you can't blow a single segment. Either the whole thing works, or it doesn't, unless there is a bad pole piece. I was going to suggest rotating the pickup 180 degrees so the top is at the bottom and the bottom is at the top. If the top "e" still gives the same problem, then you can rule the pickup out of the equation. Then I would look at the bridge saddle for problems. If, however, the low "E" gives the problem this time, then I would suggest the pole piece has become demagnetised, although that is highly unlikely as you have had this problem on more than one pickup.
  11. I would still be tempted to change the high "e" string. It could simply be a duff string even though it works on the neck pickup.
  12. The difference between 2 1/8 and 2 3/16 is so slight, it shouldn't cause a problem as long as the saddles will fit on the bridge you intend using. The strings will be marginally closer to the edge of the fretboard at the body end, but only by the tiniest amount. I suggest you go ahead and do it. Don't forget that to fit the LSR roller nut, you need to cut the fretboard a little closer to the first fret to maintain the correct intonation
  13. I would agree, epoxy is your best bet, but just make sure you sand the mating surface of the neck with 320 grit paper to give it a key to bond to
  14. Stove enameling wouldn't really be possible on a guitar because it is (or at least, it should be) baked enamel. It is applied as a powder and baked at a very high temperature, much like the glaze on crockery. A guitar would simply go up in flames at those temperature. You can get cold brush or spray enamel, but it looks and feels nothing like proper stove enamel.
  15. Your printing software probably has a scaling option so you can force it to print at the correct size.
  16. As they are pretty shallow, I would just sand the wood down to get rid of the dips. Sanding carefully, you should be able to blend it all in and looking good.
  17. Whoa there. If the power input from the jack is connected to the switch legs in the way you describe, bridging the two pins will create a dead short across the power supply! Have you removed the switch completely from the circuit board? You may find more contact points underneath the switch itself. First thing to do though, before you mess around with the PodXT, make sure it is the correct power supply for the PodXT. You say yours is 9v AC 200ma. It should be 9v AC 2000ma. Assuming you mis-typed the details, and it is the correct power supply, check that it is actually working, because obviously, if the power supply isn't working, the PodXT won't switch on.
  18. My fingers aren't particularly long, and not especially thick, but I find it uncomfortable to play a narrow neck, i.e., a 42mm or 43mm (1 9/16" - 1 5/8") nut width. That is the main reason I got into building my own guitars (and then for other people). I wanted a wider neck, which couldn't be bought over the counter, so I made myself a guitar with a 46mm (1 13/16") nut, and later, 48mm (1 7/8"). These I find extremely comfortable to play, and most of my customers over the years have preferred these sizes. I also prefer shorter scale guitars. Of course, at the moment, I can't play any size neck, or build anything, as the wrist op I had in November didn't go according to plan, and I can't rotate my forearm at all now. I may need more surgery in the near future to correct this problem
  19. I think you'll find the scarf joint is actually a sharp angle, not end grain. You can't see the angle because the sides are covered by the strips glued on to increase the width of the headstock, and the black face plate covers the fact that the neck wood actually goes at least halfway up the face of the headstock. I hope you can see what I mean
  20. I wonder if he will use a "drop" tuning?
  21. LOL! no worries. just a dry fit for pics. no glue yet. As if anyone would ever forget to fit the trussrod before glueing the fretboard down... ...besides me Only ever did it once though. It's not the sort of thing you get caught out on a second time I love the inlays
  22. Big buffer http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supp...fing_Arbor.html There are also smaller systems, including pads that can be fitted to an electric drill.
  23. Of course there is no neck dive. The neck is balanced with the Washburn Wonderbar Shift 2001, the biggest heaviest whammy bar system ever made I actually had two of those, one I put on an Ovation Breadwinner style guitar I built a while ago, and one I have sitting here in almost showroom condition waiting for my wrist to get fit for building again
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