M_A_T_T

If you were looking at the Ryobi 9", go for the Delta 9" instead (I believe HD carries that as well).

Looks like the wood finally has a taker!

I tried selling this before for $69.99CDN, no takers, then I dropped the price down to $34.99, and STILL no takers. I don't want to haul this packaged up wood to my new shop, so I have decided to GIVE THE WOOD AWAY FOR FREE! The buyer will pay shipping, however, which is ESTIMATED at Back $19.31 & Sides $16.95 shipped Expedited to the USA. The pieces are in two separate boxes, and each will be insured accordingly at the ORIGINAL price of $69.99CDN. I can only accept a money order in CDN funds. Karimaruthu Acoustic Set - Back L 22" W 15 1/2" D 0.105 Sides L 33 3/16" W 4 7/8" D 0.105" Interesting wood that I've never heard of before. Heavy and hard. Interesting color, like dark Koa, especially with it's flaming. Back is joined and thickness sanded with 80grit on the outside and 120grit on the inside, as are the side halves. Quartersawn. http://files.photojerk.com/mmaatt/misc/d1.jpg http://files.photojerk.com/mmaatt/misc/d2.jpg http://files.photojerk.com/mmaatt/misc/d3.jpg http://files.photojerk.com/mmaatt/misc/d4.jpg http://files.photojerk.com/mmaatt/misc/d5.jpg http://files.photojerk.com/mmaatt/misc/d6.jpg

The links don't work properly. Though, if it's home depot, are they Ryobi tools? Some don't think those are very good at all.

Acoustic archtop guitars are constructed more like violins than flat-top acoustic guitars. They only have two tone-bars instead of the X-brace pattern on the top, and nothing on the back, except maybe cleats. The wood choices are more in line with that of a violin too, maple for the back, sides & neck, and a spruce top. I think that's quite a challenge for a first instrument. This thread should give you an idea: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=16157

I know, I was like but it does look kinda cool in those last two pics.

Are your bottles nice and clean? Mine are covered with all that hard white crap.

Moved some more today. I decided to make more room by combining my router table & 4x36 beltsander. I took the top off my router table and fastened it to the tool stand my sander was sitting on, then stuck the sander on top of that. Two bolts remore the sander when I want to rout: ROUTER SANDER

The color is not the only difference. Trust us, (some) of us know what we are talking about....

I keep mine in the fridge. I heard it lasts longer kept cold. Do you do this?

I can't fully comment on it as I've only used it two or three times. A friend who builds acoustic guitars professionally uses the same brand, but larger version, in his shop. He's used it for at least 5years now, so it must be good.

Well I was kinda sore, but I wanted to move more stuff. Here are a few pics as it comes along: http://files.photojerk.com/mmaatt/misc/newshop2.jpg http://files.photojerk.com/mmaatt/misc/newshop3.jpg The only new stuff I bought for the new shop so far are the mini-fridge and the utility shelf. I want to try to keep everything on this shelf instead of putting holes all over their walls.

Like is said before, the size of your dust collector should depend on the type and amount of machines you plan to hook it up to. I remember reading somewhere a calculation for the CFM of a DC where you'd punch in the CFM requirements of all your tools, the lenght of ducting and any bends. Be aware, the longer and more bent your ducting the weaker your DC will end up being. I have mine (General International 1HP) about 3ft from the two main machines I use it on. I hook each one up separately when I use it . I have a section of hose on the DC, then a section of hose on the saw and sander as well, and I fitted male/female plumber pipe fittings on each hose so I quickly connect the hose of the DC to each tool (been thinking about a Y connector lately, though).

I'm currently moving my workshop, which is located in a 5'x10' storage room and a 10'x10' spare room of my house to my work. They are letting me rent a 12'x15' room they don't use. Thursday I removed all the old office furniture that was stored there, then moved a mini-fridge, utility shelf and a shop-vac in on Friday and gave it a good vacuuming. Today I was busy dis-assembling some of my tools to get them in my little two-door car. I got my thickness sander into three main chunks that could fit in my car, then drove 5mins to the new shop and unloaded and set it up....wasn't too hard.... I then spent quite a while fiddling with my edgesander. I took the platen/motor assembly off the base, but it still weighed probably close to 150lbs. I managed to get it down the stairs of my house, one step at a time, then hauled it into the front seat of my car (seat folder back). The table (which weighs like 70lbs alone) was in the back seat and the base stuck out the back of my trunk. When I got there one of my co-workers (who also plays in the CFL, BIG guy) gave me a hand getting it upstairs. There is some hotrod place having it's grand opening right next door, so I won't bother them anymore today with my ugly car. Tomorrow I will try for the bandsaw, drillpress & dust collector....if I'm not too SORE!

I have some Craftsman bits, I like my Freud and Canwood-Pro bits ALOT better.

CFM is not the same as SCFM. SCFM is a more accurate description, and can be much less than SCFM. Using CFM is a way for tool manufactures to market the tool as more powerful than it actually is, like 'peak horsepower'.

That's the one I have, you'll love it!

I just cleaned out my favorites of overseas suppliers, I'll see if I can find them again. EDIT: heres one https://www.tonewood.sk/index.php

I had one of those for less than a day, then it went back to the store. It was too wobbly, I wouldn't trust one of those. I use my bandsaw, edge beltsander and drillpress the most. I like the bandsaw for it's convenience, but the drillpress for it's accuracy, which is an important factor to consider. I've used my thickness sander maybe two times in the year or so I've had it. Jointers are useful in conjuntion with a planer, but mine sucks so I use handplanes now.

I use THESE. Use them on a smooth surface, as a surface with texture will show through the paper and mess up you sharpening (I used to use them on melamine, then switched to a glass plate). I also have a fancy honing guide that is awesome, definately use some type of honing guide when doing chisels and plane blades. I get my blades RAZOR sharp with this method and can get wicked thin shaving from my planes: http://files.photojerk.com/mmaatt/violin/v272.jpg For gouges I use the gouge to carve a channel the exact shape of the gouge in a soft wood like cedar, then fit the honing paper in and run the gouge through it. I also quickly hone the opposite edge of my blades to ensure a razor fine edge.

Thanks for the nice comments guys.

How wide are you making the neck at the nut, 1 1/8"? I gave my mandolin a 1 1/4" nut width and it was much easier to play, just a thought.

It's near the 'in the white' stage, but not quite there yet: More pics I didn't meet my goal of getting it done by mid October, but the woodworking competition was cancelled this years anyways. My new goal is to get it done before the year ends.

How's it going?

Those are neat, but I would hate to have to setup the thing everytime I switch tools, especially if I'm going back and forth between two.