WezV

A skip is a skip - not my fault you guys don't speak English i wouldnt use this wood for necks because a softwood neck has never seemed like a good idea to me... but i know melvyn hiscock has suggested douglas fir might be good, and i know you will probably try it anyway. anyway, if you are going to try a softwood neck it looks like you have good stock and it might just work. but for me this wood needs to be multipiece bodies or archtop tops, its screaming acoustic qualities from the pics - just wonder if the actual tone will live up to it

its a spruce - but it does look bloody nice. i wouldnt use it for necks though, but maybe join pieces together for acousticy tops or spruce bodies. looks tight and straight grained enough that it should be quite strong My cousin found some mahogany in a skip the other day - 1 single plank that is about 15'x10"x1.5". straight grained, unwarped. and about 5 degrees off quartered. should keep me in neck blanks for a while

sounds like you have all the answers already, that is pretty much it. its stronger, more resistant to warping and it allows the use of a greater variety of wood for 1-piece necks i insist they are either flat sawn or quartersawn - i am not so bothered for multi-piece necks as long as they are balanced so i would be happy with (A) 'rift/quartered/opposite rift' where the end grain looks like this \\\\\lllll/////. but i would not be happy with ( 'rift/quartered/rift' where the end grain looks like this \\\\llll\\\\ to get from B to A you just need to flip one of those outer pieces around here is a real life example you can see maple and mahogany grain is symmetrical on each side - the wenge in the middle it flatsawn. So i have used rift sawn wood in a way that overcomes its issues. wood that would normally be useless for guitar necks has become usable again

i like to keep it light, i dont want either body or neck to be to heavy - then if it is slightly off balance at least it not an issue but this is my aim - be able to hold unsupported at the body join/strap button location and have it balance close to playing position both these guitars are lighter than they look

looking quite george lucas is that pic too - all though the t-shirt maybe altering my perception

i like the body radius jig - may have to try that at some point well, the answer is obvious :D

yeah, i wasn't getting it - but there is nothing new there so far the solution looks good - just got to be damn careful with that thing till the new neck goes in

my suggestion wasn't anything as severe as that - i just meant fill in the truss rod with slot and reroute.

as a structural fix i would fill and reroute. then there is no reason the finished product wouldn't work just like it should. but it does mean there is a chance of revealing the fill when carving the neck in which case i would spray the whole back and sides a solid colour. you may not want to cover up the laminations - but if it works its worth considering

I started using a company called newtone a few years ago. Mainly because they are local and priced well, but i was also hearing great things about the tone and string life so it was worth a punt. http://www.newtonestrings.com/mechanics.htm they offer as standard: Hex cores - a bright punch sound which is expected from electric guitar strings Round cores - extra warmth with a little less harshness, particularly usefull on naturally bright guitars. The Round coes also help reduce the tension of the wound strings. Archtop - A Double wrap of Nickel over a Round core, warm and melow without the string squeal of single wrap strings. Stainless steel - extra brightness you would expect from Stainless Steel. Drop D - wound on Hexagonal cores, but featuring a thicker core on the 6th string to allow tuning down to D without loosing the definition of the note due to lack of tension. plus many more selections for bass, acoustic and other instruments plus they will do custom sets made to order using any of the techniques above. I really like tehir bass strings made with hex core and a double wrap = the outer wrap is so fine they feel comfy like flatwounds but dont sound like mud I think most string makers offer a choice of gauge and maybe material - but not much else So what can affect the tone and feel of a string (not including guitar factors like magnetic pull and scale length etc..: * core material * core size * core shape * Outer wrap material * outer wrap size * outer wrap shape * core to wrap ratio * lasty but probably most importantly - age!

is it tele specs - with tele pickups? because to a certain degree it will always sound like a tele which can be bright - or even abrasive. that is what tele's are for anyway, my absolute favorite tele pickup is a BKP blackguard flat 50. only problem is they added some to the range and i am not sure if the one i have is closer to the current flat 50 or flat 52. Its not as high output as the current flat 50 and it doesnt have the copper baseplate of the 52 http://www.bareknucklepickups.co.uk/main/pickups.php?cat=teles&sub=vintage&pickup=flat50&series=blackguard

orgmorg posted this yesterday: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=45909 Now if LMI are being investigated there is quite likely going to be a knock on effect on most guitar builders - it wont just be a Gibson problem for much longer Apparently customs are tightening up a bit and more things are getting stopped... and I really don't think it will be long before international trade in some woods becomes very difficult. lets say i want to sell some santos rosewood (pau ferro). Its a relatively abundant wood and comes from south america so there shouldn't be any legal problem - but are the customs guys going to have a clue or is anything with the 'rosewood' tag going to be stopped i see gibson are releasing more guitars with cooked maple fretboards.

awesome - letting her cut up a nice piece of flamed maple there you refer to yours as wonder-girl, in the spirit of comic book geekery i am naming mine violet venables. i blame stan lee. he made everybody who shared an initial in their first and last name sound like a super hero... but i think i am just carrying on my guitar naming tradition

I have emailed, i did actually Pm earlier but then saw you prefer emails in the other thread I wouldn't risk shipping rosewood at the moment, but i reckon the woods used here should be cool - and its a mostly finished product rather than raw wood. The problem with Indian rosewood seemed to be that it needed a bit more processing than they were giving it i.e. fretboards would have been fine, fretboard blanks were not

ya sure there is no international shipping on these Doug? i would be quite interested in a couple of these - maybe the fanned fret one and one of the cheaper ones. Pm Me if its going to be possible

ah come on... that is no excuse in the modern world! how far away from you was the closest phone with a camera

and you didnt get us pics and clips!!!

it will be fine... not pretty, but fine

i did warn you i dont think it will look OK cut to fit - all fenders of this style have the pickguard/control plate following the bottom edge of the body, i think it will look weird if it doesnt do that

have you done any grain filling, sealing or wiping down with anything else? did you do the same process on the scrap you tested on

does the name refer to the look of the back - like something has taken a massive bite our of it

sounds fun to me! its not really the kind of stuff i would listen to at home very often, much more enjoyable at the actual gig

old thread!!!

dont forget you need a little extra distance for intonation, can you get any more than 12.75" on the 12th fret to saddle measurement? you will need at least 1/8" extra. its not ideal having the saddles all the way back, but if you are happy with that (and can get the guitar strung up like that) then it does save more work

i am doing a spalted carved top at the moment and quite honestly its a real pain in the arse! it was all stabilised and thoroughly soaked in thin CA whilst flat - it seemed to soak up a massive amount. then i started carving and after a few mm i was back to punky crumbly wood. so i got the carve roughed in - quite uneven due to the different textures and re soaked with thin CA. that is where i am at now - edge tools are probably not going to be the way forward so its going to take a while I actually gave this piece of wood to my cousin when he said it should be a carved top. I said there was no way i would try carving it but he was welcome to it. That was about 3 years ago and he never got around to it until a few weeks ago when he asked me to carve it in return for a spray job on the double neck