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But he said no... anyway, thanks for translation, Scott... sometimes I get lost. The bridge looks way nicer than the previous one. For the next builds I'm gonna spend more money in the hardware, I think is worth. And thanks guys, glad you like it... can't wait to string this thing (which reminds me that I have to buy strings tomorrow)...

Sorry, I don't get your advanced english... A couple more shots of the back side... the surface ended quite wavy, as the brushing was not really uniform.

Never trust in a picture... Regarding to the back side, I just forgot to say... I changed the bridge at last minute and had to fill the string-thru holes, that's why the whole body is solid black. The reason for why I've replaced the bridge was because I had a mistake measuring the width of the fretboard, including the binding. Then, the 1st and 6th strings were too close to the edge of the fretboard in the 24th fret. The only solution was changing the bridge by one which allows me to setup the string spacing, and this is what I found: It gives me a couple of mm more in the fretboard. Not really a full solution, but it minimizes the mistake. Not sure if I've explained well...

Hi there, it has been a while since I don't post any update... sorry for the lack of images, finishing process is always a little bit messy for me and the thing just looks terrible until you start polishing. I must admit that it's not being easy, I can't get rid of the scratches and the polish compounds I'm using are not so good as the ones I had in Spain. Couldn't find any good polishing disc either so I had to do it by hand. But I'm getting there, just need to spend my life wiping. Here's a shot in the middle of the process:

True!

I was thinking for long time to do the same as a personal challenge, also to keep the flat clean of dust... looking forward to seeing this done. BTW, that piece of mahogany has a glorious size.

It took me a while to realize that those are 3D renders... very well done, love the textures!

Not fan of blue guitars, but that explorer just looks sweet.

I've found hardtail bridges a lil bit more ergonomic than TOMs while playing, due to the neck angle... as for the controls, maybe you can get some inspiration from Hutchinson guitar concepts (http://www.hutchinsonguitars.com/).

Even using rulers, you have to check first if the ruler measures correctly... I was using one until I realised that it was giving me wrong measures, comparing it with other rulers I have...

Nice build, shame you've lost the previous stuff... looking forward to see that body carved and bound.

Hi there, winter is coming, so I had to switch the rooms in order to use the heating. I have been cleaning / painting the whole apartment in these last two weeks, so I couldn't make much progress. I found this corner a good place for the mini-workshop, just need to isolate somehow from the rest of the house, hope it doesn't get too cold in winter / too hot in summer... maybe I could build all year round. It is a 2x2 square. Anyway, I finally prepared all the stuff for the finishing stage and gave the first coat of black to the body. It is just kinda water based paint, very opaque. I bought some nitro in ebay and planning to apply over it in the next weeks. Thanks for watching!

As far as I know, the neck pickup should be exactly under the (imaginary) 24th fret and the bridge pickup as closer as possible to the bridge, that gives you the wider range of frequencies... and, since the bridge location is determined by the scale length, the only question i can see here is the location of the scaling center, which is the 20th fret (where the body starts). If you have access to a vector drawing program, like Illustrator or Autocad, you could roughly draw the guitar on its original size and then overlap the baritone fretboard as a guide, centering both drawings around the 20th fret. Then start scaling the original drawing, using the 20th fret as center, until the original fretboard is the same length as the baritone one. That will scale the body in a proportional way as well... but maybe you'll have to reduce a bit afterwards due to a more narrow fretboard. Not sure if I've explained well, you can do it at eyeball too...

Thanks Scott, I can't wait to paint it in black... I've started with a triangular file to "open" the upper part of the slot, then I've used calibrated files for the bottom part, where the strings rest. This is the first time I make the slots way taller than the strings, just want to check some bullshit people says about nut making.

Hi there, already finished the building stage, just need to do the final sanding before painting this thing. Here working in the nut... Since I need the strings in place in order to make the nut, I've dressed it with all the hardware and made a quick setup to check that everything works fine... And that's all for now... thanks for watching!

Oops... sorry. I saw a woman working in the same shop in FB and got confused.

Just to be clear, cause I've seen some pictures in Facebook right now... are you a woman, Sully?

I like the 'natural' touch of the bone in my builds, there is something primitive on it... not to mention that I try to avoid buying as many parts as I can. I found this, the initial design made in Illustrator... there are some differences with the real one, like the headstock - I had to make it smaller due to the size of the ebony veneers from Madinter - and the neck joint, which I still didn't figure it out when I made these plans. So now that I have the prototype in real, I will prepare this winter the next builds for the 2016 building season.

Thanks for the link Scott... I never bought on Stewmac but sure I can find them in Ebay. Do you buy them pre-slotted?

Alder worked great so far... I have been very cautious to avoid scratches and dings, and always using an old towel over the bench... too poor for a non-slip-rubber thingee I fear. Well, I never tried anything different... you're right, the bone is a lil bit grippy, specially if the strings have an angle between the nut and the tuners (like Gibson design)... I thought it would work better with the straight direction of the strings this time, let's see. Adding graphite to a bone nut is a common procedure, as far as I know. I should try some cool graphite nuts or something like that...

Making the nut...

The bridge is a unbranded chinese hardtail I bought long time ago. The pickups are Wilkinson, they have a great sound for the price IMO. Here some shots of the work in progress. I still have to make the nut, place/screw the bridge, finish the fret job and proceed with the final sanding before finishing.

Very nice!... I like the headstock very much. Is the neck back sanded?

Pickups and electronics in place...