psikoT

Very nice heels... I love your work!

Thanks for the kind words mate, glad you guys like this build. As for the GOTM, I'm pretty sure someone will upload another beauty, which will make your vote harder... XD

I think it depends on the design and the wood choice, my 7 string top was only 7 mm thick, although I would love to have 3/4 mm more. Voted for carved!

7 strings Ash/Wenge - One piece Ash body, Wenge top and headplate - Mahogany/Sapelle/Maple 5 piece laminated neck - Macassar Ebony fingerboard, 16" radius - 7 strings, 25.5" scale - Inexpensive parts - Finishing: brushed nitro Building process: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/47269-7-strings-ashwenge/

ah ok, I only use my fingers... XD

I had the same issue in the past, I think it is due to a non-uniform coat at brushing time, not related to sanding imho.

- 240 wet sanding... - what do you mean with backing? yes, you're right.

Sure, I'll try to explain... that's really a sanding job. It takes several days to complete due to the crappy surface the brush usually gives... anyway, the procedure was: - 6 coats of grain filler. I usually don't use grain filler if working with mahogany, sapelle or alder, but ash and wenge have very deep pores, so this time it was needed. Sanding with 120 grit between coats. - Once all pores are covered, I start applying the nitro. Four coats in total, keeping drying each coat about 4/5 days. No sanding between coats, but it's very important you 'cross' the brush at every coat. I.e. you paint the first coat from north to south, the second from east to west, next from N to S and so on... sorry, I haven't a better way to explain this, hope you understand. - Once you have all coats of nitro, let dry about 2/3 days and start to wet sanding. I know this is not very orthodox, but I only use one grit, 240 in this case. The reason is because I need a 'hard' grit to eliminate all brush marks, but it turns smoother while using it, so I really don't need smoother sanding papers... instead of that, I use a wet scotch brite as last grit, just before polishing. - And the final polish is the common procedure, first with car polish and next with wax. That's all. I must say nitro is very shiny and grateful, I couldn't get that surface with polyurethane. Thanks everybody for comments, glad you all like it. I'll have a try at GOTM this month, just in case... cheers!

Hi there, just finished this one! Painted with brush, hope you like it, and thanks for watching!

red sunburst, with no doubt.

Great job!

The shape of that 4+2 headstock looks killer... and very inspiring.

... and expensive!

Yes, I think I was wrong about that... now it looks more a pencil line for me

have you rounded the edges before glueing the top?

Awesome woods!

very nice work!

Thanks!... glad you like it. I'm currently on the finishing stage, first coat of nitro after 6 coats of grain filler.

My condolences...

I wouldn't 'print and cut' a fretboard layout, since common printers don't give exact measures IMHO... I prefer to measure fret slots by hand. There are other areas of the guitar where a printer is very useful, but fret slots are probably one of few areas where measure really matters, I think...

Thanks! I didn't thought on that...

Already fixed I have a stupid question: I'm for the grain filling stage, and I'll apply it with brush... do I need to tap the binding for the grain filler or it could be applied over it like another coat of nitro?...

Add me to the list, I feel like a retarded at wiring time...

Same here... I'm looking for a perfect job before sell anything... and still waiting.

Thanks everybody! Totally agree... you forgot to mention the crappy binding end near to the heel (still thinking how to fix it)... that was a big design fail, this is my 6th build, and learning from errors...