Andyjr1515

That top is stunning! Look forward to seeing this develop

I think starting a first build with a bought neck is a very sound approach. It's one less steep climb on the learning curve and you will learn lots and lots, with a better chance of a problem free build and preparing the ground ready for the next one It's looking really good, by the way Andy

The guy I'm building this for did his 300 mile round trip yesterday to pick it up. He was EXCEPTIONALLY pleased with it No tweaks required - he said it was perfect. If this was a job instead of a hobby, I'd call that real job satisfaction . In fact, I'm so pleased with this build, I've changed my AJRGuitarmods.co.uk website homepage: Now onto finishing the seemingly endless saga of the African Fretless, and time for a bit more progress on the Dreadnought acoustic

In builds there are always some bits we are all hesitant about. In my case it's the neck pocket - I'm always pleased and relieved when it's done. This looks good - a beer well deserved

Beautiful work

I like this very much. A very crisp and attractive use of woods and colours, both on the body and especially the neck. Top drawer stuff

Thanks, Prostheta !

A very important point that Prostheta makes here. I cover this in the thread also as well as ventilation, etc, etc.. The thread can be found here for anyone it might interest

Hi In my single-cut bass thread, I mention my usual method of gloss-finishing my basses and guitars, which is wiping on. I recently did a thread on another forum, so forgive me for cutting and pasting, but it is a technique that is probably of interest to any of those of you who might be stuck for facilities or equipment but still want to produce an acceptable (but not perfect....of which more later) finish. But before I start, just a few of the common-sense health and safety precautions: use varnish and thinners in accordance with manufacturers recommendations, especially relating to decent ventilation, skin contact, flammability, etc . Be aware that cloths soaked in thinned varnish can present a particular fire risk (including spontaneous combustion in the right circumstances). Once used, let them dry flat and preferably outside. The products illustrated are using the UK terminology, but the materials are general household products found in most DIY or Decorators retail outlets. I use a wipe-on technique for varnishing, using standard old-fashioned household polyurethane varnish. I don't have anywhere satisfactory indoors to spray either cans or spray-guns and needed to find a method that I could in in a spare room rather than having to wait for a dry, still, insect and pollen-free day everytime I wanted to finish a bass or guitar (a long, long wait often in the UK!) There are a few plus's and minus's: It will never look quite the same as a well applied and properly buffed spray finish It isn't as tough as a commercial poly finish - but it is tough! You can put a couple of coats on per day (One 1st thing in the morning and one in the early evening) For a wood or veneer finish it produces a very acceptable result For a plain colour (just done one in the finisher's nightmare - gloss black), it takes a number of tips and tricks to get it OK (but refer back to point 1!) There are some important differences - the main being that you DO NOT buff to a final finish....in fact you CAN NOT buff to a final finish. The technique is different because the chemistry is different. More on this later.. The kit I use is simple: Ronseal Hardglaze or Rustins Clear Polyurethane gloss varnish; White Spirits (I think this is referred to as clear mineral spirits in other countries?) to thin it; hence the jam jar; rubber glove; cheap, disposable microfibre cloths. I am still using the original 'high volatiles' varnishes - simply because I haven't experimented enough with some of the more modern low volatiles ones. That's a summer project for me... I'm sure you have, but if you haven't yet discovered micro-fibre cloths, it's worth doing so. They are: Generally dirt cheap (except the specialist ones, see below) I think these were just a few £ in the cleaning goods section of a local supermarket. COMPLETELY dust free and lint free - but never cut them otherwise there's bits everywhere Soft and fluffy, very absorbent for the varnish I use one more type of micro-fibre cloth, a particular type, as the best 'tack rag' I've ever used. It's a window-cleaning cloth and I think it cost about £6 ($10). My dust bugs issues have vanished since going from decorators sticky tack rags to this: The technique is simple: thin varnish with about 30% white spirits don rubber glove wipe over surface with micro-fibre 'tack rag' take corner of cheapo micro-fibre cloth dip in thinned varnish, squeeze out excess wipe on This is a heavily figured veneered top after about 5 coats (over 2 days)...note that I'm doing it over a CARPET!! Actually, I forgot to put the newspaper down but got away with it. It only drips if you major-ly overcharge the cloth: Although I said above that it's not the best way for a plain sprayed colour, it still isn't terrible...a guy from one of the UK forums persuaded me (under duress and suitable cautionary words to manage expectations) to do him a gloss black body...the most challenging of any colours: There are some important tips and tricks, like with everything. I'm sure there are others, but these come to mind: Wipe with a good quality 'tack rag' (see above for my recommendation) to ensure the surface is dust free. Try to keep dust to a minimum! Remember spray finishes dry within seconds...this takes an hour or so and plenty of time for the dust buggies to land and sink in Apply multiple thin coats. Maximum 2 per day (one in morning and one in evening) Flatten with 1000 grit, used wet, every 6 or so coats After 5-6 days, there should be sufficient thickness. Let it cure for at least 3 -5 days Flatten with 1000 grit used wet (if necessary) and finish with 2000 grit used wet Ensure varnish is properly thinned...maybe go up to 40% thinners at this stage. Dip the microfibre in the varnish and squeeze it almost all out then apply a VERY light coat. Let it dry. Apply a second VERY light coat and, if necessary a third. Don't buff - nitro coats 'melt' into previously applied coats. Poly applied like this doesn't do this so buffing will simply wear away the shiny top coat and expose the sanded under coat Leave at least 1 week (2 is better) then polish with good quality, low abrasion auto polish (Macguiers Ultra is a good one) Hope this helps - if you try the approach let's see how you get on and don't hesitate to contact me Oh - and by the way, it was this present camphor and alder build in Build Diaries that sparked off the interest: Not bad for a pot of household varnish and a cheap rag done in the spare bedroom? Andy

Like all these things, there are a small number of nevertheless very important tips and tricks. That said, I probably wouldn't have gone down this path if I'd had a few more facilities to hand. I've recently done a summary of the tips and techniques for another forum. I'll cut and paste the relevant bits on a thread in the 'Inlays and Finishing' section when I get a moment (and that reminds me...still have to finish the African Bass thread!) in case there are any other ProjectGuitar members who are similarly usable-facility compromised...

Thanks, Scott. Certainly compared with the kind of finish I get when I try to spray stuff On very close inspection, it doesn't quite get to a well applied and buffed spray finish but, considering it can be done with no equipment and in the dining room, it gets close enough for many projects:

Finished!!!!! Forgive the self-indulgence, but here are 'a few' shots Thanks for your encouraging feedback and your considerable patience during this journey Andy

Unbelievably beautiful. Great job

I love the colour. I've seen printer ink used once before - it is surprisingly effective

Thanks, folks. With the quality of builds on this site, your kind feedback means a lot

The electrics are now fitted and I've been doing some work to balance the pickups at their lowest acceptable height. Why? Because of the very large covers that I need to get well away from picking fingers or picks - particularly around the P pickup area. By necessity, the J pickup is going to be higher, but I quite like that to give it a bit of balance. I wanted also to avoid drilling holes in and screwing the slugs out through them, although that was an option. Nevertheless, I cut some channels to within a gnat's whisker of break through to be able to screw them as high as possible with a cover as slim as possible: Getting to the ebony = sub 1mm to fresh air. Yikes! However, it worked. I have low but acceptable volume and good balance with this thickness of covers: Other than fixing the covers on and adding the strap locks, that's the body pretty much done. Now the varnish is hard enough, I'm going to satin the neck and then play it on a strap to check the feel of the neck. I'll also double check against the templates of the guy's favourite bass. To me it feels a little bit chunkier than my own PJ neck - it might be just his preference or I might need to just tweek it down a little. If it's OK, it'll be ready to collect in a week, if it needs a bit of a profile tweak, 2 weeks. By the way, can't remember if I said, but the guy was hoping for a light-ish bass, in spite of it being a single-cut. It's coming in at 7lb 13oz (c 3.5kg). He's well chuffed....and so am I

I didn't see faces....until now

Well on the home straight now Got the bridge fitted and strings on - nice low action possible and very loud acoustically. That meant I could trial the pickups and see how low I can get those covers. Since then, I've shielded and earthed the cavities: Next job is to fit the electrics and see how low I can get the pickups with still retaining a decent output (the powered EQ will help here). Then I can get those covers as low as possible and then....it will be pretty much done In the meantime, I couldn't resist a strings-on mock up:

You already have a photo of mine . It's the B&D workmate you have at the beginning. I can also fully endorse the caption underneath it!!! I'm very interested in this topic because I have thoughts of improving the situation this year...

Thanks @Guitaraxz . It's a build I have enjoyed immensely. I knew the camphor was special, so it was worth taking the extra care with the rest of the build to make the most of it. The most satisfying thing is that the future owner is delighted with the way it's starting to look

Onto the final knockings. Frets are dressed and polished, tuners are fitted. Still to do is: lining the chambers with copper shielding fitting the bridge fitting the jack plate, p/ups and electrics final height dimensioning and fitting of pickup covers. Couldn't resist a few mock-up shots The Hipshot drop D appears to be workman-like and was very easy to fit Andy

After another 12 coats, that wood will absolutely sparkle

That's looking GREAT Jaycee The number of times I've forgotten to pre-rout the control channels.... I like the look of the top. Figured sycamore can be very nice indeed... Andy

Thanks, Scott It's Lacewood - specifically London Plane Tree. It's going to be lovely when it's been fully prepared and finished... Andy

Just doing what I hope is the final coat of varnish on the back and the neck - although with my unconventional wipe-on technique, you can never be sure until it's fully dry. Just before I did, I couldn't resist some mock-up shots: Assuming the finish is OK, a week to fully harden and then I can finish the fret dressing and hardware installation. While the varnish has been drying, I've been making a bit more progress on the dreadnought acoustic I'm doing for our old-gits-band's vocalist as a surprise present for his 'special' birthday in July. Plenty of time for me to c**k it up and start again :