Andyjr1515

Back to the project and a little more progress. First of all, the headstock. The general style is what the future owner is after. Still a bit of refining to do but this is how it's looking: The plate is sycamore with an inset of rock maple to give a passing nod to the fretboard. The trussrod cover is cut from the plat itself and will be secured with a single neo magnet: The back is stripy: It will end up slimmer than this, but with this general vibe. I've also drilled the string access holes: ...and luminlay dots: Still a lot to do but I've actually got to the 'final jobs to do' list with only 14 items left on it

That's a great refurb, Andrew

There's no way of saying it without innuendo, but nice knobs, Norris

Gosh - you go away for a week or so and everything shifts while you're gone! Great build - the one just finished and Great build - the one to come!

I was in the wilds of Scotland out of range of internet and all other forms of electronic communication when your win with this came through, @Mr Natural If ever there was an example to fully illustrate the phrase, 'A well deserved win!' - it was surely this. Jaw-droppingly fabulous. Well done

Well as far as I am concerned, I think people in glasshouses (me) are perfectly entitled to throw stones...

If you've already started the french polishing then stick with it. And then if the next one is sprayed, you've gained two valuable skills, not one!

That looks a nice compressor If you want a gloss finish and you've got the equipment...well, I know what I'd do

Yup...it'll go nicely with his bald head

Reasonable amount of progress on this: Got the custom magnetic coils and the piezo / magnetic mixer cum preamp: Which meant I could route the indents in the back of the fretboard: Which meant I could glue the fretboard on: Which meant I could start carving the neck: What I like about the evolution over a few of the last builds of the 'scoop the back' approach and the 'it doesn't matter what the hell you do with the body as long as the neck is sound' approach is that you can get a super-slim transition between neck and body: ...and you end up with a super-light instrument. Seems to me to be much more effective than conventional chambering. Bearing in mind this is a very large-bodied, long-scale, single-cut bass made out of rock maple, sycamore and ebony, the total weight is going to end up pretty much spot on 7lbs...

There are some very exciting new products around - but many as you say are nigh impossible to get hold of at all, or in smaller quantities. It's worth pursuing some of the options you're already looking at. Ronseal meets my needs - but it isn't 'nail dent' proof to quite the same degree and, as I say, definitely doesn't 'melt in'. Possible to do outside on a calm, still dry day (mmm...I can see the flaw here already), the Manchester Guitar Tech nitro spray range are excellent - albeit very expensive compared to some other finish methods.

Oh - there is one thing though that I refer to in the tutorial but is worth emphasising: Polyurethane varnish doesn't 'melt' into previous coats in the same way as nitro, etc does. Each layer is a separate (though fully bonded) layer. Therefore, the final couple of gloss coats is just that - the final gloss finish. You can polish, but you can't buff up to a shine - trying to do so will wear down the fine layers to the ones below and you end up with unsightly contour lines. Hope this helps

Hi, Mike I use good old-fashioned Ronseal Hardglaze Polyurethane varnish. It thins with white spirits just fine. Having said that, they have recently changed the formula a touch to bring it down from 'Very High" volatiles to "High" volatiles and I'm not sure you can quite go to the same degree of thinning without getting other issues. Still OK to about 30%, though. I've also recently used it un-thinned (the new formula does seem to be a touch thinner) using a simple cheapish artist's fan brush, with pretty good results. This is the brush I used: ....and this was the result: I really can't get on with acrylics sold in DIY outlets - they seem to stay soft and tacky. A lot of the commercial finishes tend to use multi-pack products or accelerated UV curing, etc.. Much of the available household stuff I find on the very edge of 'fit for purpose' at best. There's a guy on one of the UK forums who gets spectacular results with wipe-on Chestnut Melamine, but it is far too fumy to use in the house...

Hi! Sorry - been a bit distracted the past week and have only just picked up on this. In terms of tips, I did a tutorial a while back - it's here I've wiped-on gloss and satin varnishes for many of my builds having been frustrated by lack of spray facilities and a few disasters trying to use other techniques. Like all approaches, there are tips and tricks that make the difference... and I'm still experimenting...but this approach can cope with full gloss, satin or matt polyurethane varnishes and can be done - as the 'Bedroom Builders' title suggests - in a spare bedroom with the very minimum of facilities. Shout if you think there is merit and I'll bring you up to date with some of my further conclusions and trials. Andy

Well that's mighty odd. My good lady wife wants similar things doing! You don't suppose they are related, do you?

Yes - exactly

It sure can be. I was tempted just now to get the scrapers out again -and then realised that all the family had gone to bed. Probably not a good idea

Blast! Rumbled...

And the back carve begins

That is sublime. Wonderful job

Just remembered why we've missed you so much! Outstandingly wonderful colours on that neck!

Yes - nice piece of wood. Walnut is one of my favourites...

Ah, but there's a very fine line between exceptionally clever and exceptionally stupid... Let's hope it's the former

To be honest, I haven't worked that out yet. If possible, it will be held with magnets - but that may not be possible. Whatever, the principle will probably be the same - set it into the rebate with double sided tape or maybe a couple of spots of cyano and then carve / sand flush with the body carve. The bigger challenge will be probably sorting the rebate itself...

Well, this looks almost artistic... ...which is probably more than the carve itself is The carved chamber's essential kit: Thickness gauge Chisel Deepest item you're going to need to fit under a flush cover I'm at another "Sit and THINK, Andyjr1515, before even touching anything that is going to remove wood". It is a great temptation to get out the pullshave and start the back curved carve - but I mustn't...yet Factors include: I need to preserve the present flat surfaces until I'm sure all and any routing has been completed. It is extremely difficult to rout on a scooped surface - ask me how I know! The one thing that probably will be routed is the covered shallow chamber the pickup coils will sit under I probably should finish the reference point roundover along the back edge I need to add the two small sycamore fillets at either side of the tuner block support I need to work out just how much depth will be lost from the control chamber when I scoop - and where. Almost certainly I will need to go deeper (and therefore thinner) with the control chamber carve if I want to have a flush cover So I'm going to spend much of the day just sitting on my hands, just looking at it