mistermikev

just trying to help... but if you are doing a channel... you could use a big square plexi base and that will deflect 99.5% of everything back into the channel. just a thought.

I would posit that anything other than testing with a multimeter is going to be "just a guess".

right on. I'm told the holdfast is as old as workbenches. I'm not aware if cam clamps are as old... but I love the low profile/tech nature.

while it would make sense that the four blocks represent the four ends of the coil wire... and the big block should be ground... any number of things coul be happening on the other side of that plate. I do not recommend you just start desoldering things because more than likely there is a fine wire under those globs of solder that are in fact the coil wires. If you disconnect them: no worky no more. best place to start is a multimeter and confirm that on the other side the inner two coils are connected in series.

right on. the holdfast is sure a good idea but I don't think practical in this application since I'd be planing the top and don't want to avoid/hit anything. i agree that the expanding circle is a nice idea. I'd be a little concerned of it breaking loose which is why I'm thinking a t nut/bolt might be a more secure option. will have to keep it low profile.

ah, that had no occurred to me. I did accidentally cut some brass recently so have experienced first hand how grabby it can be!

I do NOT have the audacity to think I know anything... but I had to do something similar a while back, and for better or worse, what I did was make a 3/4" mdf copy of my ctrl cover, glued that to a another piece of mdf, then used the leftover from cutting out that copy to put 'around' the cover for router balance. then double sided taped the cover to the copy, and taped some scrap with sm thickness to the outer edge for support. admittedly... probably 50 more steps than it needed to be but it worked. interested to see what will likely be a better way to do it.

so ordered some 1/8" thick 1" x 1" x 4' square steel stock for a new planing jig(probably won't be able to lift the damn thing). my old one has a little bit of dip in the center over 3' with a little pressure and I wanted something that would go 4' long w/o dipping. on my old jig... I would just screw blocks into mdf to hold things. freq screws + blocks + double sided tape. On my new jig... I was thinking it might be worth it to do some reusable fasteners. here's an image of something I thought would work well: I'm thinking something similar but putting some T bolts on the other side of the mdf and countersink a 3/8" bolt into the pivot fasteners. Just wondering if I can get some input afa what sort of fasteners you've had good luck with? other ideas?

I was with you right up to the point of sticking it on evilbay. The wood flows one-way around my house! selling it... that's crazy talk! hehe

quoting hannibal / A-team... I like the cut of your jib.

not sure how I missed your post the first time... sorry. very true. you pass on it and then somewhere a few months down you are looking for a good piece and can't find anything. there... I feel better about my habit now! ty for that.

nothing wrong w that.

lotta disparate builds going on there. I felt like 3 was a bit too much for me on this last run... can't imagine. cudos.

turned out real nice. nice job.

Geography def not my strong suit... I could not point out norway, sweden or finland. I guess just metal then!

I've heard of this "think before you act thing"... doesn't sound like something I'd be interested in.

hmmm. you got those strupwaffel things tho? that's a win if so!

If you didn't bust thru (and even if you did and can fix it to where it won't happen again when you remove/restore the neck): "IT'S GOOD"! I can't speak for others but I figure I am almost always pushing the envelope on neck ferrules because I like to use a 1/2" pocket and would like as much thread as possible on the other side. You do have to predrill good tho because if you don't you could bust off your fretboard. I like to get all my holes drilled prior to finish because I like to put some true oil into the holes to seal them a bit and I also figure it will keep me from potentially scratching the finish at the home stretch. I don't see anything wrong with doing it the other way around tho.

well, you get guiness/telemore dew... I get wood - who really wins there?

glad we could all agree that I'm totally right and everyone else is totally wrong. after all, that IS what the internet is for, right?

this horse is undoubtedly dead... but like michael jackson I will 'beat it' some more. I get bizmans point fully and I would assume everyone on this forum is here because they find building to have intrinsic value that is "worth it" for them. To say that there is no point in considering your time as part of the value of that instrument unless you are building to sell it - well, we'll just have to agree to disagree. The orig focus of this thread is what is the "REAL" cost of building a guitar. IMO the most expensive thing you put into it, even as a hobbyist, is your time. After all, you only have so much on this earth. You could have spent the time drinking beer or sleeping and that has value as well. You could have spent the time with your wife watching movies. Could have spent the time shooting sporting clays or making music. You could have spent the time bullspitting with friends online (wait... ). The parts/materials... those are just expenses... the real cost is your life. If I want to compare the value of a guitar I just built to what I could buy from someone else... sure I have to factor in the amount of fun I had building it, the joy I get from showing it to someone and saying "I built that with my own two hands", the amount of relaxation it added to my life by forcing me to focus on it instead of what is coming down the pipe at work... but also the time I spent on it, the risk I took potentially lopping off a finger, the potential of ruining my back to the point I can't stand straight anymore, the reality of a wenge sliver... and least of all: the money it cost. Surely you would agree that the "REAL VALUE" is not just the money you could sell it for? So logically the "REAL COST" is not only the money you put into it but all your materials -including time.

I don't want to derail too much and I apologize for how much I have derailed already. wasn't the case here, but I freq see threads of partscasters or scratch builds where folks say "it's so much better and I only spent x" and I have the opinion that that isn't an accurate perspective because they are comparing their price for parts/materials to a price for an assembled guitar. That's fine to have that perspective, but there's nothing wrong with factoring in your hours in that comparison either. That's all I'm saying. I think in most cases it probably works out pretty favorably because to get a guitar from the big boys that is a one of a kind and was built top-to-bottom by one luthier and hand made... would probably start at $3-4k. that's just how I look at it and I promise not to force you or anyone else to see it that way (hehe).

(hope nobody minds that I spam you with wood porn) just got this top the other day in the mail (elwoodmusic/etsy). It is crazy dark for flamed maple looks almost torrified. 1.15" thick. has some chatter on the top but plenty with thickness to work with. also hit my local haunt (peterman lumber) at lunch the other day and damn near killed myself picking through a bunch of purple heart to get to this 10' piece... anywho... having fun and probably should stop buying wood... but I won't!

looks like you are putting shelves into your wood for the bridge pieces? if I'm seeing that right, nice detail. as always, some beauty work.

aha! cheater. I built two complete necks to get my current build going... appears I'm doing it wrong... again!