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mistermikev

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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. mistermikev
    funny, he's using stew mac color tone and tru oil (I mentioned both of these in my response). In my case, I'm going to try to relic the neck so I need some of that amber to come from the nitro clear so that when I relic it off the neck won't remain too amber. Might have to get a preval kit and add amber to the lacquer - that'd probably be the best bet. I have used a heavy coat of that stew mac amber on another guitar I refinished and it does nail that look w/o any lacquer. does look great - I appreciate you sharing. tru oil is just amazing stuff! genius idea putting the tru oil rag in a zip lock back... tacking that with me. he did a nice job enhancing the grain the the mahog. some tips I can take for my les flaws there for sure. cheers and thanks again.
  2. mistermikev
    thank you, would love to see that. I've since come across a bunch of info at tdpri that I'll use... will share in case anyone ever needs it. There are many broadcaster/nocaster afficianados that recommend to grain fill with tan die mixed in, then clear 2x, then trans white 2-3x then blonde 3x for the body - all light coats. the neck they say originally was just lacquer so the amber color is really just aging of the laquer. I think I'll probably use some tru oild with a dilluted stew mac amber dye on it prior, then just think clear coat of nitro and sit it near 5k light for a while - but perhaps that will change if I see the video you mention.
  3. mistermikev
    might as well thro my hat in the ring... have done this before using a forstner bit to make a nice hole/template in mdf... then using a router with a bowl bit to follow the hole. the tricky part being lining up the hole. Was thinking about this recently... might create a male part for that hole, and add a 3/8 hole in the center of it... slide a dowel thru to line it up, then remove the make insert... voilla. Something I'll have to try next time I do this but thought I'd pass it on in case it helps.
  4. mistermikev
    have not had this problem on emgs myself... but have had this issue on old pedals. Inside the emg is an smd based preamp. I don't know this circuit all that well but I do know that the jist of it is that it uses one coil to sense the noise and this is subtracted from the other coil in a 'differential' preamp. I would assume this uses capacitors to set thresholds and caps can def dry out over time. as they dry out they loose capacitence... long story long - could be they have become victim to this. In theory you could try to use an audio probe and or multi-meter with capacitence test to find them and replace... but that would require the delecate process of degouping the emgs which are encased in epoxy. My guess would be that the effort would not be worth it. Again, this is just a guess. The fact that moving them changes things makes me think it is more likely an issue with an intermittent wire leading to/fro. If they are quick connect type you could test continuety to/fro... test whether it is both pickups. test if you are in fact sending 9v to them. that's about the best you can do. hope that helps.
  5. mistermikev
    thank you sir! I do appreciate the support. Still has some ripples that need blending but turned out better than I thought. Lots to learn there but not bad for a start.
  6. mistermikev
    doh, thank you for pointing that out! my bad. thank you sir!
  7. mistermikev
    thank you Norris. Means a lot to me.
  8. mistermikev
    put some tru oil on the innards of the tux... did the neck holes for the tux did the neck holes for the broadchaser... then did a lil video of joining the top for my tuxedo here is the result: put in my f-hole in just 974 easy steps! and switched back to carving my les flaws: wow, much more work than I thought! should have done more steps (next time).
  9. mistermikev
    bad to the bone (I know it's a white falcon on that song... but this looks like it would sound perfect playing that) - cudos.
  10. mistermikev
    lovely
  11. mistermikev
    wound yer own pickups and all? awesome. have always wanted to play one of these... looks like a cool build. excited to see it progress.
  12. mistermikev
    some fairly crazy designs there. thanks for doing your par to keep this place interesting!
  13. mistermikev
    don't you dare steal my ideas... I legitimately stole those myself! hehe well, I'm in the southwest so one would guesstimate that it's "velvet ash" aka "Arizona ash" aka "mosesto ash" aka "Fraxinus velutina" given that I got it local at a lumberyard I would have thought black ash... but given it's weight and grain I'm inclined to think white (northern) ash. It was sold to me as "ash"! thank you re builds looking good. It has been a real challenge to keep switching back and forth on the builds but the nice thing is that as I wait for parts for one I can go do something for another! so... for my tuxedo... I had originally planned to do an ash top.. and had one set aside... it was just big enough for a tele. a while back I realized that once you figure in the bend over the 30" radius it was going to be too close if not too short (not wide enough). Have been wrestling with alternatives since. I have a beauty blister ash top... but boy it'd be a shame to do that in black as I think I'd loose a lot of the beauty... and anyways it's 3/8" thick and I require exactly 1/4". Would hate to waste the thicker top by planing it down. so... I'm switching to a beautiful quilt maple top... very small quilts. Will be working that today. Now I'm wrestling with whether or not I should still do black. I don't want the black burst - not for this one. and the ash would have been ideal as I figured a grain fill would make for good contrast. at this point I'm going to go with the maple and see how a sand back on red looks with jet black die.
  14. mistermikev
    thank you sir.
  15. mistermikev
    thank you sir. I have tried a few similar (w/o wheel) from evilbay and I'm sure they are fine (have one in my delta cloud build) but they require a fair amount of tension to turn... and without the benefit of time makes me a little nervous but many seem to have used them and they seem to be fine. Thank you for the info! again, build looks great.
  16. mistermikev
    nice recovery. those are the kind of little things that might drive you nuts... but know one else will notice. Def don't let it get you down... chin up. that truss rod... where did you get it? How easy does it turn? Can you tell me the aprox diameter of the wheel?
  17. mistermikev
    tru dat.
  18. mistermikev
    probably getting funky given my socks.
  19. mistermikev
    I just assumed all those lots socks were meeting up with all those lost picks and having a party!
  20. mistermikev
    hehe, that's a pic of my office. apparently a lone sock meandered into the shot. I have no idea how it made it in there because, as my wife will tell you, I NEVER leave things lying around. Pretty sure it just wanted to be closer to all the picks that have gone awol over the years... (I wondered if someone would laugh at that)
  21. mistermikev
    got a lot done today and can barely type at this point... got my neck machined for the tuxedo... here's how I cut the neck pocket for the tuxedo... nice tight fit started working on a radius for the internal route... but quit pretty quick. I need a long bit with a bearing and a very short cutting edge. was scary because you can't see anything and with the bit I had -as I cam to the center the bearing would be out of range. so save that for next time. you can see here I just did a little corner... went back in and carved it deeper with my bowl bit since I'm not doing the radius route. then started my outter radius and about 19 passes later... so setup up on the backside... and another 19 passes later... this thing is COMFY!
  22. mistermikev
    looks great.
  23. mistermikev
    thank you sir. necessity... bla bla... mother... blah... invention... ya da yada. Really just the best thing I could think of to keep it from slipping again!
  24. mistermikev
    =========update 12/3/19=========== just a few minor things... planed down my broadchaser body another 3/16 and ended up just a hair above 5lbs... started working on the back access and cover routes for the les flaws =============update 12/08/19================ put my steps in 4lbs 10.5oz did my neck joint on the tele... nice n tight: put the 1/8" roundover on and got the pickguard aligned and it follows the horn nice... rough cut my my steps for the tele carve My neck angle jig slipped again and I screwed up my blank for the tuxedo... so I ended up building a new sub-jig for the neck angle. Bolts on either side of the pivot bolt allow me to dial in the angle with precision and they lock themselves in position. worked like a charm! put the angle on the les flaws w/o issue: so when life gives you lemons... switch to quarter-sawn mahogany! on the tuxedo blank, I could have saved it by cutting my nut slot 1/16 deeper as the angle only ran about 1/8-1/4" into the fretboard area but I figured rather than do that I'll save it for my next gibson scale neck. I was only using that blank because I had enough material leftover from the neck for the baritone... and it hadn't occurred to me that I have some 3x7 mahog that would allow for a quarter sawn neck given the tux's narrow profile. So I milled that down today...
  25. mistermikev
    not sure we can't rule out alpha particles landing on my hard drive norm. (challenge accepted: scenario where it IS in fact the data but also is inconsistent - hehe) yeah, most home printer have those flimsy plastic guides that move around a lot... try and reprint something right on top of something you've printed and you'll know that for sure. I never use the edges of the paper, in fact I often pre-cut the useable part from the 8.5x14 before I join them. for whatever reason, haven't had the issue since... gonna have to try to latch on to the common element when it happens again.
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