mistermikev

guess it sort of depends on the build. lots of basses wouldn't look right w 1 piece... but imo a les paul doesn't look right with more than one. it's all good... tru dat. sure is!

multilam sure does add stability... but imo a 1 piece just looks so much nicer... but it takes all kinds I spose. not opposed to either myself. did want to mention to op( @Lespaul521) ... you may check your local lumber suppliers too. I have a bunch of 3" x 7" mahog that I got at $3/board ft. It's not nearly as pretty as some mentioned above... but it's pretty 'nuff fer the likes of me!

I imagine it's unlikely due to the fact that very few guitars would require it. you should be able to get two les paul necks out of a 3" piece. why not buy two 1.5" neck blanks and do a glue up? afa recommendations: www.etsy.com/shop/ELwoodMusicWoods has some beauty honduran mahog right now... they are helpful and would likely cut you the exact stock you need. Shoot them a msg. woodtoworks seems to have a lot of good reasonable blanks... maybe shoot them a holler. also guitarwoodexperts... the gentleman over there is super nice.

given it's an ibanez(generally thin - love em), and you just had the neck off for a bit... my guess is your neck has adjusted and your guitar is fretting out a bit. given time it will likely return to normal. (for the win!)

right on. I do try to rasterize as much as possible (is the right word) but unfortunately I need to keep many things as sep layers because later I might want to copy 'just the humbucker route' or move it. I have a group of 'materials' that is all pics of wood/pearloid/abalone that is often the biggest... but then I don't want to delete it because I might decide to see how rosewood looks here or pearloid looks there. i guess it just is what it is! thanks for the thoughts.

I do almost the sm in photoshop. It's a dangerous game because I now have some 50+ designs that are all time soaks and I'll never build half of them... but boy is it fun! Also, at full scale... using hi-rez photos and hundreds of layers... a project can get very big very fast. If you have an insight as to how to keep them smaller (other than deletings groups of layers!) I'm all ears. your design here is really coming together. looking fwd to seing it realized.

if you go look at "led light base" for pedals... sm concept will work. I've done this a number of time (for pedals). Take an led and sand the top of it flat and right up to the contacts. Then use a clear pickguard, put some design/sticker on the back side of it... everywhere but where the led will be glued to it. This will make the light only go out the sides. Leds go thru batteries fast... so you'll want to use the biggest resistor possible - just test it out. with a water clear led you could probably go 12k. also, might want to put in a push/pull switch so you can turn it off. (probably place the led right under the knobs so it doesn't shine right where the led is)

build is looking great.

well, I suspect you are right.. if you look at the bridge, it looks like they actually counter sink them a hair too. think it's fair to say they don't at this point. thanks for the reply!

I suspect not given the bridge... but I've seen some pics that make it look like the body might tilt away from the neck... hard to tell if that is just carve or not. Anyone happen to know?

seems like you are in good hands with curtisa so forgive if I'm stealing thunder/butting in... based on your readings sounds like you figured out the wire order. I'd wire in series - it's more typical for a humbucker and you'll get parallel with your singles in pos 4. 1 white(bridge-as it was in orig pic), 2 blue(middle), 3 red(neck).

that's a nice detail there on the jack. cudos.

duh, didn't think of that... you did do a nice job of matching it. good trick.

hadn't noticed... a nice detail with the fretboard overlapping the nut. might have to steal that one but seems like it'd be a lot of work. nice job. splits... that's one I'd have to walk away for a moment on. I think you could likely rub glue into it before removing the studs and be ok. sux tho... confident you'll recover well.

fantastic build. thanks for sharing here as this thread will be a great resource for folks traveling this route. nice work. looks like it will be a beauty build.

will have to experiment with that next time i do that but in the case I had issues with it it was an ebony fretboard with maple dots... and it required finish sanding. what I ended up doing is just using compressed air freq. still... that ebony dust penetrates quite well. some good points there. something I hadn't considered (strips going out of square when planed). I will use my router sled to plane it and will take care to ensure I setup the blank with the strips parallel when I do that. thanks for that. I hear ya on the stability. Not something I'd want to do on every neck just because I love the look of a single piece and it's a lot more work... but for bass/baritone neck... def worth it.

He he not typing speaking into my phone! That's why there's so many words spelled correctly! I guess I'm going to 86 the laminate idea but you make a good point especially if you're dealing with ebony!

Now that I think of it oh, both the next are going to be dyed one red Les Paul and one black so I'm not sure laminate in between the pieces is going to make much of a difference. Just thinking out loud

I would think the fact that they're laminated at all would mitigate any Boeing of course that is contingent on the bow being fairly small to begin with. I don't know how straight the green is on my wenge, the centerpiece, going to have to look at that this weekend.

Right on some good info there. I don't have a lot of extra material so I'm thinking a decent nail would be a nice substitute for dowels. Going to have to find some veneer somewhere cuz I don't have much stock on that and that would be a nice touch.

Some great advice here too, yes I think I will try to use a nail at either end of the glue up to mitigate slippage. Thank you for chiming in!

Right on BisMan, that's a good tip I've seen it myself but forgot about it thank you for reminding me!

so for my "TeLes" and perhaps my other tele, I'm thinking I might try making it out of a laminate of some flamed maple and wenge. So far, what I know is that I might want to alternate the end grain. I have some (semi-rough) flamed maple that's 7/8" and some wenge that is finished 4s that is 3/4"... two pieces of flamed maple and one center strip of wenge should get me close enough to 2 3/16" if I'm careful... cutting too close? In terms of prep... how important is perfectly flat here? IE - since you are going to clamp it up... how concerned are you about bow (obviously a big bow would be problems but what about 1/16" bow)? I would normally use my router plane to get a flat fretboard surface... but running this on the two flamed pieces would be a lot of work (plus sanding out the ridges) and am thinking of just running it through my planer a few times. Clearly one has to watch out for obvious defects in the wood (don't want any voids) but other than that... what are the pitfalls of doing a lam neck?

I guess we both come away with something then.

not really nitpicky... just want to know it so I can plan for it. I guess the top on a less paul is usually an arc due to the carve - so at the end of the day I'm likely going to have to sand the bridge ring to match that arc anyway... At the end of the day this thread was really just me working it out. Sometimes committing to writing it down flushes out the understanding... this was one of those times for me. I do appreciate you playing along tho!