mistermikev

right on... little blending and "ninja vanish".

well... it just struck me when I saw it... was thinking "well I bet that would take a looooong time"!

above... first post... you say "Fret slotting files can be very expensive. Mine cost about €5 (yes, it's a feeler gauge"... I think you mean nut slotting... and if not I would very much like to see how the hell that works!! some great ideas in this thread from all. I imagine this to be a solid resource to others so... here's small contribution: for shooting they make these been bag rests... it's the perfect neck rest! $7.99 and best of all - zero effort!! https://www.amazon.com/Shooting-Support-SandBag-Holders-Photography/dp/B07WDW92WQ sanding beam - well another option is a machined level. generally $20 from hardware store and decent precision... I still use for lower grits. That said - I've found an actual precision bar is very much worth it here for the final leveling - ymmv.

some great details on this build. nice work.

so... little late to the party so forgive if it's been addressed... but at 1 1/4" that's going to be rough afa clearance. I think a 5 - way switch might just sneak in there but a tremolo is usually going to require 1 1/2" minimum unless you get something really low profile like used in the sabre series. ok, that out of the way... jem - cool. is on my bucketlist to build a jem. have a 77fp. one of the best guitars I've ever played, and easily one of the best sounding guitars ever. best neck finish: well... best for feel in my experience is tru oil. just feels like a raw neck despite offering pretty good protection. best for sealing/stability - probably poly. necks that are well sealed tend to fluctuate less with the humidity and for some this is a huge thing... others a small thing. decal - have an inkjet or laser printer? get some clear waterslide decal stock. You can whip up the logo of your choice, print it, spray a few light coats of clear acrylic on it... and slide it on just like a model airplane. if you want to get fancy... you could print it out reverse, paint in some details with gold paint marker, add clear add very light clear, flip it and slide on. or... you can try your hand at screen printing. you can get screen/ink from many art stores as well as paper you can print, apply chemicals... and parts that aren't printed will dissolve. stick to screen... and you can squeegee on a logo. lots of options anyway. body finish - well same as neck... tru oil is just the best for a raw feel imo. osmo poly x raw is another I've learned from folks here that is just great.

well, that actual original purpose of this thread was to confuse mr crusader... mission accomplished!! hehe.

double thanks... there is some good info here and endorsed by mikro as well so... taking it to the bank.

yes, recon is inlaid and will secure via ca glue there. epoxy - I'm thinking more and more this may be the way to go. I know it will hold just about anything and I have real concerns that this piece doesn't become a nuisance. thanks for the recommendation on the zpoxy...

i've tried to post this reply about 90 times now... something with chrome maybe? anyway, this is for bobbin to wood. the turqoise i will secure via ca glue as I'm using that for finish too.

had no idea that vulcanized fibre was a type of cellulose... good to know. I was under the impression that gorilla sort of popularized polyester glues so... when I say gorilla that's what I mean. I am well aware that their wood glue sux but their poly glue works very well for the right application. solid for

right on... not familiar with that zap but as I understand gorilla glue is very good at plastic to metal or wood/metal/plastic. that said... I'm not sure the bobbins are really plastic so not entirely convinced that would be a good hold. I don't know much about bobbins... but as I understand in the pickup world they often use ca glue to hold the bobbins in place for winding.

thank you. I need to find a good source for epoxy - if you have any recommendation - I'd love to hear it.

thank you Charlie. very much appreciate the pos feedback. the thing that attracts me to gorilla glue... is that it will expand and fill cracks and that might give it some 'grab'. I'd rather it not be removable because there will be nothing else holding it on there... so really want it positively secured. Last thing I want is it becoming a nuisance. scoring is def a good idea and that is advice I think I will def employ. I think bobbins are some sort of variation on fiberglass no? I know they use epoxy there so that is another possibility. anywho, thanks again for the reply.

well your kind feedback is worth more to me than anything else - thank you very much for the positive response!!

some more tiny details... took me 3 tries to get this... well... semi-right. any thoughts on securing it? I was thinking just thin ca glue as that's the finish I want to go with... but perhaps gorilla glue? I'm not sure what would stick well to the seymour bobins. Pickup experts???

lol, a while back I was into building pedals... and a fav is combining an orange squeezer with an ibanez tube screamer... I used the name "Ibenhad" and it has stuck w me lol. I like Ibemuz just as well. bravo.

i honestly could not see that it was a mermaid... despite all the posts about mermaids... until you changed the orientation. my mind was all "nope". looks lovely!

dang... well if at any point I'm feeling down... and don't take this the wrong way... I'll think of you and remember I have it easy. love that tele in the first post. the new more "jetsons" direction is also very fetching.

that's a nice detail - good call. love it.

that smokey gloss - ooh la la. I don't see any ugly spots there!

idk if I'd like this profile at all... but the sm concept using an mm axis profile flipped on either end might be really noice: ps that porsche is a lovely color!!

hehe, well maybe someday I'll get pulled over for speeding and call in a favor - jk. Working with those tiny letters... make me feel like a giant! Another entire skill set required just to not break those things while putting them into the gap.

one of those little details... not entirely sure it's worth it alone but perhaps when combined with everything else it will have greater value... spent a lot of time on this! same maple used for the fretboard and sm sonoran turquoise as the rest of the inlays... volume, mode and boost.

right on. well if strandberg gets away with that shape... I'm thinking almost nothing would be problematic lol!

all solid reasoning. thanks for solving the mystery!!