mistermikev

thank you very much for saying so mr bassoon. what you describe is exactly what I was going for vintage/modern and it makes me happy to know that's coming across. very much appreciate the feedback!

"IT'S GOOD!" (holding both arms up for field goal)

funny, your quick design doc is a better illustration than mine - nice work - at least one of us knows what is going on! I'm not planning on using this to cut the neck pocket... just the rebate on the neck blank. the blank doesn't have a fretboard on it yet so it will clamp flat to the bottom piece. probably make it only 3" wide - just wide enough to get a neck through. t nuts are a good idea. can't do wingnuts on the outside because the router has to be able to run on 3 sides of it to get a consistent angle on 3 sides of the neck blank... so I'll probably just use a forstner to countersing a lag bolt and then tighten via socket. thank you for your input bizman. I believe the idea has def improved based on your contributions. heading to the hardware store now. cheers

right on, thanks for the reply. using a plane is certainly a fine way of doing it but A) don't have a plane, and B ) it seems to me you don't end up 'knowing' you actual angle when you do it because as you go deeper, your angle changes. Either way... trying to solve this with a router. afa route neck angle... that ends up complicating the hell out of your tenon. Could certainly be done. On my les flawes... I just cut the join area at 90deg to the 4.5deg slope. You can't do that on a les paul tho... because of how the body meets the neck. it only worked on my tele as it has a protruding area where the neck joins. afa 1 long bolt... the issue is that a router would need to run on either side to get the 4.5deg angle where the neck meets the body... so you can't have a bolt sitting out on either side. My solution to that is to have both bolts pointing inward and sitting flush on the outside. protractor idea- love it. going to have to snag one at walmart. I was thinking I'd just print out the angles on paper but your idea is much better.

ok, you kind of glossed over something I was wondering about and hoping to see. How in the world did you scrape/clean the logo so perfectly? If I can add 2+2... sounds like you were going to use your 'second g' to mask the inlay? but you somehow scraped it? what tool? so many questions - sorry. looks fantastic. also, who got shot and had the nerve to bleed all over your ac unit?

I need to create a simple jig for doing a neck angle with a router. for my current les flawes proj, it's a 90deg angle so I really just need a box, but I figure this is something that is going to come up if you build guitars... so why not build a jig that would gut a 90 - 84.5? specifically -how to cut the angle in the back and sides of of a neck blank. I've seen a lot of tutorials where folks cut them on their table saws... but I do not own a table saw and really would rather avoid using/having one. lots of other folks cutting them on a table router which is also a fine way of doing it... but I much prefer "THE HARD WAY"! The router is my hammer. so here's what I came up with: bottom piece is a simple 3 sided box with a longer base to clamp to the neck. the top - is a 3 sided box sitting outside that... and the 3/8" hole there would be for a lag bolt on either side... sitting flush on the outside. so as you tilt back... you stop at 5.5deg. as you tilt fwd you stop at 0 deg. I would ride my router with an extended flush cut bit on the top sides to remove material: would probably want to put some sort of set screw stop for the top box so that it can be dialed in to the exact angle. hardly a revolutionary idea... just a simple solution. Just looking for input in terms of pitfalls, things I've overlooked, better ways of doing it, general comments, etc.

I find that when I make a mistake... it's best if I fight my urge to correct it right away. That's when I make it worse. I force myself to sit with it overnight... and freq I have found that I'll think of a solution that was simple and right in front of me. Either way it's the mistakes we make where we do the real learning... and it looks like you recovered ok so... nice work.

right on. def would be $60 worth of work to create that. thanks again.

the caul is an interesting idea. I have heard of doing that - adding a little fwd bow... but have only build using dual action rods. I plan on doing a single action in the near future just for the experience... so I appreciate the thoughts. I was thinking the bowed channel would be more manageable... do you use the straight channel as it's more gibson-accurate? also... if not too much trouble... any chance for a pic of your caul? just curious how small is small.

right on, sounds like it's more of a work flow thing then. I have been contemplating 'carve first' as in theory it "MIGHT" have a benefit of not putting in some tension by removing wood after adding the fretboard... but it's also nice to be able to keep flat stock for a glueing/clamping and also for doing binding channel to a consistent depth. I'll have to try it just to learn a few things. thank your for that answer.

I couldn't help but notice that you carve the neck before putting the fretboard on. I know of some popular builders who have said this is the only way to get a stable neck... and couldn't help but wonder if that is why you do this? or is it just how you like your work to flow? I don't want to detail your thread, so apologies... just couldn't help but wonder.

undoubtedly the note you tune too would be clutch. with a string that big... I suspect there is going to be a fair amount of tension required to be in the audible human range but yeah... s/b doable.

Right on... that thing is crazy. bet it sounds insane. a lot like the 20+ft grand piano. "the giant". I suppose a contra bass tuner w a gear probably would be a good thing, however on the octobass they clearly are using the classic style compression tuners. I can't imagine what tuning that thing is like... those things must be pretty big and require a lot of tension... but then they seem to do it on a regular contra bass which has decidedly big strings. I imagine you can buy a single tuner as folks must require replacements on their uprights all the time.

sounds interesting. with a string that big I'm pretty sure a std tuner would work anyway... even a vintage tuner - the slot is only so wide. probably would need to hold some serious tension... I think bizman's suggestion might be your only option other than perhaps using a clamp to lock the string down and a thumbscrew to make minor tension adjustments. here's a giant stringed bass called the 'octobass' https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octobass#/media/File:Octobasse_Orchestre_Symphonique_de_Montréal_Eric_Chappell_1.jpg

totally thought you were joking... and now am not sure if you were... looked it up... it's a thing.

you cracked me up w that one. I have similar issues in my garage. All my camping gear is just covered. Could really use a dust collector altho when I was young and working as a sander with a industrial dust collector I still got full of sawdust. I 'spose connecting a vacuum to the sander might help but I suspect a lot of it is going to get airborne no matter what you do. Just part of the drill. Maybe if one sanded IN a vacuum... but that might kill you so not sure it'd be worth it (hehe).

right on... I hear ya on the how long it takes. have never sold a guitar and do it more for fun but if I did I'd have to charge eleventy million dollars to pay myself $8 hr. Is a ton of fun tho. I saw that skyjer is now a smith... perhaps we'll see him on one of those knife making shows! Anywho, I'll quit diverting your excellent thread. cheers

oh, right on... so one IS going to be a tele - looking fwd to seeing your take on that format. wish i could drink unfortunately that is a real no/no for diabetics so it's pretty rare for me. I guess finishing a build has put me in an extra humorous mood so... lets blame it on that.

right on... well I think I can speak for everyone in saying we're glad/lucky to have you contributing. also we're lucky to have skyjerk.

man, with all the hardware on... wew, that is just beautiful.

well in wisconsin... there is a lot of german and duch heritage... I don't know about finish or swedish but perhaps. geeeez. dove tailed? that is some nice stuff there. yeah.... that stucco joint stuff is a bad idea in cold areas... constantly re-stuffing! then again our cabin has been standing ofr over 100yrs think it sort of gets a pass for that!

think I've seen a number of your build threads over at mylespaul... no? believe I've poured over your les paul weight relief details. good stuff for sure. anywho, rock on.

I wish... what is the meaning of this title? David's PRS and Matt's Tele also above... I meant 'cool wood'...

awe snap 'tele' got me in here but then no tele... REFUND! jk. looks like some cook wood there. looking fwd to i.

i look at that and think... man... doing a white guitar was insane as I kept collecting fuzzies... I can't imagine a whole white cabinet! Looks very nice - you did a great job. that top is clearly one solit piece 2" thick? massive. beautiful. bet yer fingers were soar sanding out those coves.