mistermikev

looks great! Its official.

right on. cheers

just throwing this out there... I built my jig using steel rails and bolts/nuts from home depot + two layers of mdf. The nice thing about this jig is you can adjust the height at the four corners... which makes it work to give you the taper on the back of the neck, or any other taper you need. it also is nice for allowing you to do thinner or thicker jobs. not all that hard to build either... drill four holes in steel rails, drill 4 holes at corners of a piece of mdf. then I just built an mdf slat to go across it... two L rails to keep the router in place, and two pieces of mdf to keep the router on the steel rails. lots of other good ideas and all have their benefits afa ease of setup, simplicity, complexity and usefulness so I'd suggest having a look at some threads to find the one that will work best for you.

this tyranny that is the limited supply of reactions must not stand! I'm a big fan of all things fleck... wood fleck, bela fleck... it's all good.

looks good... very smooth. nice work!

have yet to do a multilam myself but there is def one in my future. afa tops... I've had good luck cutting both sides at the sm time with a router... lot less work anyway. not sure what one does with multilam. run it through the planer? I am not sure I would do that with figured wood. I guess that leaves my router planer... would be a lot of work to plane down several boards for a multilam. If it means hand sanding the whole way... I just as soon not do multilams! I think I'm going to have to buy a jointer b4 I do that!

shucks... I was looking fwd to giving you a hard time all "a prs with actual binding... tsk tsk", now you've ruined my fun! should have known a true prs expert wouldn't do that. shame on me! that red against white/natural looks great.

totally thought this was regular binding... but read that it is faux (prs style)? Can't believe it. looks like white binding. looking good!

beautiful wood. that is going to be an interesting one. what material for the cross inlays? looks very gothic, nice work.

I think everyone struggles with this on some level... I know I did. I am just now getting to the pt where I feel like "I got this". For everyone it's different, but for me there were a few game changers... 1 - checking depth on my fret slot, using a triangle file to hit the edges so the fret would seat 97% perfectly flat (still working on that 3%!) 2 - switching to using a long bar and forgetting about the radius blocks. I kept hearing folks suggest this but thought it wouldn't be good and that I'd screw up the radius... but the fact is I wish I'd have tried it before.

I suspect, that like anything else it's a learning curve and fine tuning your recipe. I have often thought of it myself but just have so little time at the end of the day. With that in mind, I'd really like to try and support little builders. I figure: I build guitars and I like to think that what I can build - even when taking into account a reasonable wage for my labor... is better than what I could buy. I would assume this would be true for pickups as well. Don't get me wrong, I think you can buy a fine guitar or pickup that is mass mfg... and def more consistent, I just think it's the love that we put into building something with our own hands that makes them more unique, more special, and often better tuned in to the player we are.

looks great! I think once you start putting clear on it it will really come alive. I rather like how it accentuates the carve. Nice work!

looks like a nice seam but hard to tell from the pics... can't wait to see it sanded up!

as ad said... the main reason on a 6 string is it looks cool! laminates have recently become more popular on 6 strings because you can build a really thin neck and still have something rigid. ibanez for instance. they build a lot of really low profile necks (the wizard) which over the years have become prone to stress cracks and even breaking... so lot of their guitars are now 7pc lams with a central wenge strip. (not necc even neck thru) if you were doing a 7+ string guitar, extended scale guitar (baritone) or a 4+ string bass you'd have more reasons to do it because of the stresses those necks endure, but it's really a design choice you have to make. I think you could probably build an 8 string guitar neck out of pine and it's not going to explode upon puttings strings on... however how it looks in 20 years might be a dif story. as I understand mahog is the least prone to issues with warping, but it is not all that rigid to begin with. I have read that sapele is more rigid... but more prone to warp... would love to hear what the veterans here have to say about that tho.

that certainly makes a dif... I have a 24fret sg and I grew up playing an sg90 (also 24fret sg)... I also have a dillion prs 24 clone... that dillion just feels like home to me. I love an sg and I can def get good access to the 24th on it... but the dillion just feels so much more comfy up near the 24. also have a jem 77fp and that also has amazing access at the 24 plus scalloped frets... still the dillion fits me best. I'm sure the difference is a combo of all things... the sg has a lot of body after the bridge but so does the dillion. then again who knows... up until recently I thought my blue tele was super light and it's 7+lbs. this is true and a good point. I play bass so I'm used to a really long reach but I hear you... the shorter reach def feels more comfy.

3/8" spaced out over 22 frets... probably doesn't seem like much... but I swear I feel it. there is also the perspective that reaching to the 1st fret is now 3/8" closer/farther. The the difference in tension could play a subliminal role in that. Not a huge difference, but then when you look at a strat vs a les paul... that's really only 7/8" difference spread over 22 frets. that said, I wouldn't wager that if you blindfolded me and put either in my hands that I could consistently identify which is which!

as I understand it... gibson advertises 24.75 but that is at the string(I have no idea how this would make sense as the frets would not change based on the string)... the real scale is 24.625... so lot closer to prs than one might think. Honestly I grew up playing a gibson scale but much prefer the prs 25"... those little tiny frets at the top are difficult for ol' sausage fingers here!

google for electricherald or gitarrebassbau... that's about all I can tell you on the subject!

so red then, a? this is gonna be a ladykiller. before you started this thread I was thinking "I wonder why you don't see so many prs single cuts being built" and now I'm asking that even more. Looks really great.

just looked at their tone pots... ok that's a decent cap. Honestly, I have never really believed much in hearing the dif in caps but I will say that I've built many big muff clones and if you don't put ceramic caps in at all it ends up sounding sort of 'wrong' because in this application they end up leaving some 'grit' in the sound. I hate using subjective terms and descriptions like that but I've done the experiment a few times just to convince myself and using all poly caps it is much more 'smooth'... which does not sound right for a big muff imo. So in the end... I have to admit that -depending on the application... there is something to the idea that dif caps sound dif... (not saying two dif brands of poly cap sound dif!) all that said... when I build things... I generally opt for decent caps not nec because they sound dif but because there is something to be said for accurate tolerances and I don't measure each part before use.

wow. i love the red one but the actual build looks amazing. I don't know a whole lot about ed roman but I've recently discovered his site and he had lots of cool ideas and built some nice stuff. I'm sorry to know he's passed on. I'm not crazy enough to attempt one for the record - probably couldn't pull it off anyway, but I am a guitar-lover enough to appreciate them... so thanks for posting and welcome to the greatest forum for guitar building ever. I hope someone picks up your gauntlet.

lets call this one a "billy square stinkray preamp". on a push pull. not verified yet, no idea where/when I'll use it... but I've used this before in a bass and it sounds great and has a very low battery draw using the lm4250. the treble pot would be mounted off board. will update when I verify it but have checked the schem (baja) 2x so... s/b good.

i guess they are only $8 here... is this the sm one? https://www.zzounds.com/item--PAUACC4111?siid=136093&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Miv0rnJ4QIV7yCtBh18bwVgEAQYASABEgKzYvD_BwE don't mean to bag on your choice esp since it looks like you can get em for reasonable prices and honestly almost nothing prs is reasonable. on the other hand... looks like a 180pf ceramic cap... certainly wouldn't opt for that cap (and would be pretty disappointed to see a $2+k guitar with that). not only is it ceramic but it's not anything special in terms of quality. for $1 you can get 180pf mica caps that probably have much tighter tolerances and probably sound smoother, or wima caps for $1.25. just sayin'.

right on. you can def find some good deals on evilbay if you are patient. I got a lovely piece of flamed mahog I'm saving that was under $40. I'm guessing a good deal on something like yours was probably $100+?

the pot shell itself is grounded through the bolt... so in theory you could forgo grounding assuming you used copper shielding... but who wants to use THAT stuff! afa quality - I hear ya... I much prefer bourns or even alpha... but they have the low profile thing going so... there's that. they also make a nice spst pot that is very low profile. I've used those music man stingray preamp clone as a hi switch, and they are decent. I pretty much stick to bourns if possible.