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ADFinlayson

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Everything posted by ADFinlayson

  1. ADFinlayson
    You don't need a fret slotting jig, I've done all my fretboards freehand with a fret saw
  2. ADFinlayson
    Check out Freddy's Frets on youtube, his les paul build series is excellent and he shows most of the finishing process.
  3. ADFinlayson
    I reckon you need to go back to levelling on one of them and get all frets perfectly level with a beam, put strings back on prior to crowning and see what the buzz situation is like. I did actually have a similar issue twice last week. I was doing a refret on my mates les paul and my yellow DC that I just finished. Got them all level on both guitars, crowned, polished up nicely with the dremel and I had a load of buzz on both guitars, the gibbo had a totally dead 14th fret too so I levelled again, put strings back on and had no buzz, then I did the crown and polish all over again and it's great. My mistake was relying entirely on the disappearance of the Sharpie line and not checking they were level with a fret rocker.
  4. ADFinlayson
    Have you tried putting any relief in the neck, could it be too flat or back bowed? What about the bridge, are the saddles causing a vibration? That's the only other point that's totally consistent when you're playing every fret, and what about string gauge/scale/tuning? if they're low gauge strings tuned down, they will be at lower tension and potentially causing buzz. Obviously I am only speculating, but it might be worth swapping the bridge out with a different model and/or changing string gauges to eliminate a couple of things as well as truss rod adjustments.
  5. ADFinlayson
    That Ovangkol came up rather nice, great work Bizman
  6. ADFinlayson
    Yeah I'm not sure why it's happening. All the photos in this thread are on the same public/shared google photos album but some of the photos don't have public read permissions and I can't seem to find any option to alter perms on individual photos.
  7. ADFinlayson
    I posted the link to stewmac because I know you're in the US. I'm in England so I buy my templates Gitabo in Germany and G&W in Portugal. I very much doubt there is anything wrong with stewmac templates, though. Another good one on your side of the pond is Potvin guitars templates
  8. ADFinlayson
    I posted the link to stewmac because I know you're in the US. I'm in England so I buy my templates Gitabo in Germany and G&W in Portugal. I very much doubt there is anything wrong with stewmac templates, though. Another good one on your side of the pond is Potvin guitars templates
  9. ADFinlayson
    I highly recommend you get yourself a set of routing templates, I made the mistake of drawing round an existing neck on my first neck build and it ended up less than accurate... You can get templates for all of the common shapes online. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routing-templates/routing-template-for-56-tele.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2020-11-gp&pref_currency=P&shipcalc=UK&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqdP9BRDVARIsAGSZ8AnjfR3zpDYb85i0kzjSzGZ6eD75BjsgxicokIJsrJIpbm-Gc6DOt6EaAuEPEALw_wcB
  10. ADFinlayson
    Thanks for all the nice comments, no idea what's going on with the photos, they're all hosting on photos.google.com in a public album
  11. ADFinlayson
    Nice Andy, that walnut is going to look a bit tasty. There aren't many cases in West Oxfordshire, but I don't need much of an excuse to lock myself in the garage
  12. ADFinlayson
    weird, I've just relinked all the pics to make sure they're public, hopefully they will appear now
  13. ADFinlayson
    thanks Bizman, no all the black plastic is gloss, probably just mucky finger prints.
  14. ADFinlayson
    Nearly there on the rosewood one, wired her up and cut a bone nut, still need to do a bit of setup work - Not sure how but I seem to have a high fret, I need to stop relying on the sharpie line on the top of the frets and use a fret rocker to check they're all level prior to crowning. Hopefully I can fix that one fret without having to level and crown the lot again. Apart from that I'm really happy with it, OX4 P90s are awesome. I'm also really impressed with the Wilkinson wraparound bridge, for the price point it's exceptional. I've done a satin finish on this one, wet sanded with 800 first then rubbed in furniture wax with 0000 wire wool which is a method I heard about watching a P J Eggle factory tour. Will be interested to see how well it stands up, It's high gloss lacquer so I guess eventually it will become glossy in areas.
  15. ADFinlayson
    Great looking axe, I'm not a tele man but that's a great shape. I've used the Signum bridge a few times now too and it's my favourite bridge, their roller hardtail bridge is awesome too
  16. ADFinlayson
    I would expect so, as long as the wood has been kiln dried, it would be suitable for building your first guitar. I wouldn't worry too much about what the likes of PRS say about wood having to by 5% moisture content etc, most people aren't able to get wood that dry outside a humidity controlled factory environment. The wood for my first guitar came from a builders timber yard in rainy UK and that guitar still works
  17. ADFinlayson
    you can buy dried wood, drying your own wood is it's own art form, you can buy already bookmatched tops too, there are stacks of luthier suppliers and tonewood suppliers online including on ebay, etsy etc.
  18. ADFinlayson
    Start now while you can nag your parents for tools. I wish I had a go when I was 15, then perhaps I'd be doing it for a living too - I don't know anyone that didn't become hooked after their first build. All the info you need to get you started is free on youtube and ProjectGuitar is your support network. This is the first episode of Ben Crowes first series that got me hooked.
  19. ADFinlayson
    wipe on polys are not thin enough for guitar finishing IMO, not if you want that glassy look. Thin your last few coats to at least 70/30 - the material will self-level better than 90 or 100% poly and it will dry faster too.
  20. ADFinlayson
    I did a video on staining/faux binding, it's a long watch I'm afraid but you get all the detail
  21. ADFinlayson
    oooh that's tasty, I especially like that unbound area by the lower horn. You will probably find those splits will stick down with a bit of super glue and accelerator
  22. ADFinlayson
    That chip out on the fretboard is a bummer but if you've still got it, it will glue back on. You can sand at least a few mm off the thickness of that fretboard I reckon, that will reduce your neck thickness a bit too. I tend to only go to about 4.5mm - 5mm max fretboard depth nowerdays (in the middle), that way I can get a thinner neck profile without worry about carving through the truss rod channel.
  23. ADFinlayson
    Are they? When I've ordered from Maderas Barber in the past, parcels from Valencia, Spain
  24. ADFinlayson
    I have one of these, can't live without it! G&W in Portugal sell them, pretty sure that's where mine came form https://guitarsandwoods.com/tools-by-job/cleaning-2063981406 Alternatively, Maderas barber in Spain may well sell them too.
  25. ADFinlayson
    wow that is seriously bowed, if your frets aren't too large for the slots, I wonder if the glue you're using before hammering them in could be causing the slots to swell.
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