Bizman62

That sounds like something Ollivander's Wand Shop might have used, with the explanation how one gives clarity and the other sensibility to the spells...

Funny, when I was very young it read "Taiwan (Formosa)" in the school maps. Hadn't figured out I was that old!

Understood, but for some (hopefully not him) that's when they notice their mistake. For some even that won't be enough, they'd blame someone else, the conditions, position of the stars but never themselves.

That's a valid argument. Your auto focus seems to like dark and less shiny materials like the fabrics and the leather of your chair.

Some people just may never learn...

I'd say focusing is your main issue, both the photos and the video seem to be a bit off focus. On photos the back fabric shows crisply while the guitar itself looks like shot through a softening filter. Similarly on the video you can see the stitches on the back rest of your chair, the rest being more or less blurred. If you can adjust that, a smaller aperture would provide more depth of field i.e. deepen the focused area. The downside is that a smaller aperture requires more light. A wide aperture can be used for lifting up details - the most extreme photo I've seen was about the eyes of a mosquito, both its tail and nose were blurred so the depth of field was only about a millimetre or two!

You would but I guess at some point we've all become so self-confident that we simply forget to follow the safety orders and continued to use the unsafe methods until something serious enough happens to wake us up.

Stepping back and saying something like "I now understand why you don't want customers without adequate protective wear in the production premises..."

Back in the day when you were asking opinions for your f-hole design I thought that it would be way too long. I humbly admit that I was wrong. The way the vertical stripes of the faux binding meet the horizontal grain pattern on the sides is mindblowingly cool! And the volute, and the radiused top. And the details... That insanity requires a professional level photographer, there's so many details that only give a hint of their existence. A short artistic video slowly teasing every curve and detail in ultra high resolution and perfect lighting...

On my current build the control cavity ended up to be too deep, leaving the top too thin for my comfort. So I fitted in a piece of 3 mm Baltic Birch plywood. It's tone enhancing since the tone pot will sit on it! So in case you think you could almost do with a 1/16" top, a fitted piece of aircraft plywood might do the trick. It's available as thin as 1/64"

No wonder, wasn't that what Taiwan used to be called?

What @Prostheta said, plus: After you've got the fretboard in place some super glue and ebony dust to fill the ends of the fret slots is a common practice. That will also somewhat tighten the fitting of the frets at the ends.

That sure is a stunning looking flower but trying to get the shape simplified as an identifiable logo isn't the easiest thing to do! In that inflorescence the tridimensionality is very prominent and a single flower would look alien.

It's surprising how minuscule obscurities the human eye can see. 3% is a LOT.

If you can get the neck that tight with just a single layer of standard 80gsm paper, I'd call that tight enough. That paper is only 0.1 mm thick so I doubt you can make a shim thinner than that! As 2 x 0.1 mm is a bit too tight you'd have to make two shims of 0.05 mm to keep the centerline. The glue will have enough moisture to swell the joint air tight and the seam that tight should not tear open after the glue has dried.

There's several sorts of acids, stronger and weaker ones. Regarding causing rust, phosphoric acid for example is commonly used for removing rust without harming the actual metal. That's also commonly available as it's relatively harmless - actually it's also being used to give acidity to some aliments! Same goes for (white) vinegar, there's lots of vinegar rust removing videos although the standard 5% acidity requires quite a long time to work. Hydrochlorid acid will chew iron faster and can cause rust but for sharpening that might work even better. Dilute it into water to some 20% first and remember the order: Add acid into water, not vice versa! And don't forget the baking powder for neutralizing after having flushed the acid with water. You can also mix the baking soda into some water for added flushing. And finally some ultra thin moisture replacing oil like WD40 or CRC 5-56 to get all water out. A spritz after every use might not be bad in seaside conditions. If you fear for staining, wiping the excess with a dry shop towel and then using alcohol for the residues should keep your precious woods clean. Speaking of vinegar, how come you didn't try ebonizing the laurel fretboard in another video using vinegar and steel wool?

I'm still unsure... To me it could mean both the edge of the upper bout of the body and the wide parts of the heel in a mortise and tenon construction shown above. Often I've been able to find the right names by image searching for "anatomy of a ***** " or " ***** parts names* but for a guitar the pictures mostly point to body, neck and headstock, finessed with fretboard, strings and soundhole/pickups and other hardware/accessories. Some even mention the upper and lower bouts and the waist between them but that's about the most you can easily find regarding the outlines or main sections. An illustrated luthier dictionary would be very handy!

'Smokey' kind of way, that nailed it! Looks like something that you'll play in the corner of a small pub and when you lay it down you can't find it because it looks similar to the interior. Add a couple glass marks and some wear and tear - no cigarette burns though since smoking isn't allowed in pubs any longer! Usually I'm against relicing but that colouring almost shouts for some! Not much, just to make it look like it has been played a lot. No bruises, only stains of beer and sweat and lots of forearm rubbing...

That's something I'm having issues with. I simply can't design in advance, instead I just have an idea and start making. My works end up being simple but that takes a ton of rethinking and remaking which often leads to compromises. @Dave Higham seems to be the contrary, starting from the logo and ending to the instruments the entire process seems to be well planned, thoughtfully designed, lean and clean.

You take a length of sandpaper, wiggle it in between the body and the heel and then pull it out while keeping the gap tight. That will make the shoulder match the body air tight.

Note that Gibson uses a narrow tenon instead of a full width like here. A gap at the heel in that case helps getting the seam tight at the heel. The heel may also be carved a bit concave for an even tighter fit. Many acoustics are built the same way.

That's only half a fret at the dusty end. Shimming the sides of the neck pocket is a solid option as it's side grain but putting a block between two end grain pieces may not work that well as a glue joint in end grain isn't too good. If you feel like the neck is going too deep into the body, you can make the body 6 mm shorter - just slab your routing template on the body 6 mm towards the bridge and reroute the shoulders. No one would ever know!

Yepp. What did Voltaire mean? Is the English translation correct? If the Brits asked Voltaire, did he understand the question or the English translation? Actually I found a flaw in my previous post, "trop" isn't actually "more", it's even more as it's "too much".

Good to see you again and not having to dumped that project! Actually it was just the other day that I thought about you... The dye job looks great, you've managed to get it even without any blotches. Regarding your files, I noticed that you cleaned them constantly with a wire brush. Yet there was some rust and as you may have noticed a rusty file doesn't bite as good as a clean one. Get some white vinegar, the stronger the better and if you can get some acetic acid at your local food store, even better. I'd say +10% acidity is the minimum. Dip your cleaned files there for some hours and then flush them with water and cover with baking powder to neutralize the acid. After that you may want to wipe them with WD40 although for wood files that might cause contamination if you can't get the oil properly wiped off. The rust will come off quite easily and if the vinegar is strong enough the files can even get chemically sharpened! Regarding sharpening your scrapers, the easiest method is just pulling the edge perpendicularly against a single cut file (or a diamond "stone") laying on the workbench. That's good enough for removing material as cleanly as with a file. That also was how I was taught to do it at school, using burnishers is something I've learned from the Internet decades later.

I'd like to translate that a bit further and closer to the "more" phrase: As "trop" means "more" the Voltaire quote can also be understood as not to add anything to what's already good. Doesn't that say "more is too much" which in turns means "less is more (or better)". "Le mieux" means "the best" which makes that saying translate word to word to 'Perfect is the enemy of good'.