Bizman62

Definitely that! I just prepared a chicken for the oven, it looked a lot like the clearcoat version and I expect it to get a similar Pecan burst with some Koa darkness at the wingtips. Roasted and baked to deliciousness instead of raw...

Your English is better than mine, that was what I was thinking of. I reckon you'd lose perspective with so many choices at your disposal, and the relevance to the sound produced when plugged in seems somewhat tenuous. Guess so... Then again, having the sounds in pairs as either one single long file or five separate duos might help getting the idea of the acoustic differences. Clicking separate files include the mouse click and the time needed for that which might be enough to forget part of the sound. My idea was a ten pair file containing one time pairs as follows: Tas Oak-Radiata Pine - pause Tas Oak-Celery Top Pine - pause Tas Oak-Blackwood - pause Tas Oak-Kauri Pine - pause Radiata Pine-Celery Top Pine - pause Radiata Pine-Blackwood - pause Radiata Pine-Kauri Pine - pause Celery Top Pine-Blackwood - pause Celery Top Pine-Kauri Pine - pause Blackwood-Kauri Pine That list would cover all variations, the rest would be same woods in different order which may not be relevant

Well, my wife seemed not so happy that the workshop is open until July compared to that the course would already have ended, as she would like me to join her with the gardening. Today I got lucky: It has been raining all day so any outdoor activities would have been out of question anyway So it was time to do something to the runs which were plenty. A fellow builder had advised to cut them with a blade while the lacquer was still wet but I never had the time to do that. To my surprise the runs were still soft after two weeks in the semi-cold porch. They cut easily with a razor blade and the cuts were still a bit tacky. And of course things happened... On the front one cut was too deep and on the edge I sanded through in a couple of places. I'm hesitant about the front: Should I just fix the cut or sand bare and use some dark filler to enhance the pores?

Thanks, the little pause really helped, it made analyzing the attack much easier. After having really concentrated in listening to all the samples I couldn't hear the tiniest difference! At some point I thought there might have been something but it seemed more like a fraction of a second out of tune than actual difference in the shape of the sound. The whole listening process felt like double checking the tuning of well tuned guitars... No sound samples needed, but after not having heard any difference in the sound samples I'd like to know if there's any difference in the length of the sound i.e. does the sound go beyond a certain level in the same time. Images of the graphs, maybe? Another interesting comparison would also hear the acoustic sound of each wood in pairs... Five species would make - what - ten different pairs? Would that be too much to ask?

If that's not too much of an effort, it would be nice to compare to the current ones. As for the fade-outs, would the length of the samples grow much if you let the sound die naturally, or fade/cut it when it's barely audible?

I tried to listen to them again for double checking that I had understood the instructions right which I seemingly had. The biggest issue to me is that the first sound of each pair seems to be still ringing when the second sound comes in, and the second one ends with an 'oomph' like you had faded it in a split second. That's most prominent with the amped low E but it can be heard with both amped and plain. Like 'PlingggggggPlingggmph'.

The Koa parts all are slick! And the super light burst just adds depth to the carving - like a good makeup it looks like there's none. I had to take a quick look to find out how G. Dead sounds and that guitar really matches with what I heard! Country and Western with some pointy edges...

As long as there's physical difference in them, all is good. I believe more in the properties of the wood than in the species, with the side note that the difference in cell construction can affect tone as well. There's many "tonewoods" that carry the same name despite being of totally different species. The Wood Database lists several mahoganies and rosewoods plus dozens of woods that are related but don't carry the name, or which are sometimes called by those names but aren't related, or look and behave like the famous ones. Your Tasmanian equivalents are as good as the "real" ones.

The main reason I asked for it is to see how much difference there might be when unplugged and compare it to how little of that difference is left with a magnetic pickup. I agree. It's hard to tell when the sound really ends. I may have seen some testing where they cut the recording at a certain level of the meter, but it can be affected by just nudging the table so it would not be accurate.

Ask me how I know... Or rather don't, that was not fun.

By the theories of "tonewood" I don't believe the sound of your woods would be similar. Given that one weighs half of the other and by Janka is only half as hard (guess your pine is as soft as ours) there should be enough difference to affect the tone - acoustically! Can you do a similar test using an acoustic microphone for comparison? That would tell if the magnetic pickup only catches the vibration of the strings. - Measuring the sustain with various woods would be the next thing to test after the actual "sound" test which seems to tell no audible difference. Didn't you also say that the rig stands on rubber feet to eliminate feedback from the table? Your system really is built to eliminate all extra variables!

I changed the nut from a 1984 Fender Am. Std trussrod. Got the replacement nut from our local guitar store which isn't big. Getting the plug out was a bit clumsy, I simply drilled it away with a cordless hand drill. Agreed, I managed to break some wood behind the nut as well but the chips went easily back in with some super glue. And finally I "turned" a new plug out of a died branch of our plum tree. First I drilled a 6 mm hole into the piece, then put a long enough 6 mm bolt through it and fastened with a nut. Cut some excess off to be closer to the final dimensions. And then I just attached my powered hand drill to the rail of our porch and used various sandpapers to get the size right. Glued the plug in and shaped the outside with a carving knife and voilà! - You can see the thread marks from this angle

It seems one of those cylindrical routers is slowly making its way on my shopping list. The channels look very nice! Do I see right, will there be some fine adjusting needed with a chisel near the lower f-hole?

Visit your local hardware store. There's all kinds of ceramic tiles, even larger than a square foot. For a pickguard you may do with a broken one so the price should be no issue. For shaping them there's inexpensive coping saws and drill bits - mine has both in one tool! There's also diamond blades and sanding pads for both hand and power tools. I guess the thickness is the biggest problem with tiles, they tend to be rather 1/4" than 1/8". In our house there was some very thin ~8x8" tiling from the 1950's on the wall above the herd but since both the thickness and exact dimension didn't match with what was available I changed all of them.

If you said all samples were from one single setup I'd believe you. Wooden ears... Or limited headphones which they should not be.

In that price range it's hit and miss, you can find good ones like the sets of MusicLilly but lemons are also common in the that price range. Wobbly cylinders is the most common issue, off-center gear makes the tuner unusable. Korean made ones are usually of better quality than Chinese.

Congratulations, the win was well earned.

I was thinking about history when I woke up this morning. I guess the various engineers in the English language are called such because the early ones really were mech engineers. George Stephenson and his son Robert and other fathers of 'modern' railroads back in the early 1800's were engineers who both built and drove their trains. Same goes for the first cars, aeroplanes and whatever. There's a painting of automobile engineers in long white coats examining a car, IIRC in the Fiat premises in Turin, Italy. Another thought from this morning: Engineers are people who know why and how something works and can calculate the most cost effective way to create that something, using the optimal amount of materials. Experienced builders can build without those calculations but without them they'd build too strong and heavy just in case.

There's aids for both. Before teaching my younger one to drive a car a friend had a pupil who needed both elevated pedals and a pillow on the seat.

By doing I meant physical work, actually building something rather than designing it. That's what I mean. I'm not saying planning and designing is not 'doing" but it requires different skills than hammering or driving or whatever. An engineer knows what type of concrete has to be used, he can calculate the amount needed for a certain strength. But he may not know what it's like to throw the cement and sand and water into a blender, sack by sack, day after day. The Finnish engineers are Bachelors or Masters of Science (Technology). While the term basically means the same in both our languages, our version isn't as wide. We have other names for many of your engineers. Your railroad engineers actually drive a train, our train drivers aren't engineers. My dad as an agricultural engineer could have been a farmer, actually he was offered a job as a farm manager (?) or steward (?) in Sweden but as I had just started at school my parents decided not to. The 'Clever engineer' thing is from an old joke: A dumb engineer, a clever engineer, Superman and Santa are present when a ball bounces in. Who catches it? -The dumb engineer, since the other three are mythical creatures. Or: Who's cleverer than a B.Sc. (Tech)? A M.Sc. (Tech), of course. And who is cleverer than a M.Sc. (Tech)? -A German Shepherd.

My dad is an 'agricultural engineer' trained in Bavaria, Germany. There's no such word in the Finnish language. Our engineers deal with technology and construction, including infrastructure and electronics among a dozen or more subcategories which all are related to some sort of technology. Another thing is that they don't actually do things like driving a train, they either plan or design things or check that things get done as planned. They're bosses, in one word.

Oh, the word "engineer" seems to be used differently in dif countries. But you got the idea

I wonder if you could have saved yourself from some of that work by using a piece of tube within that blu-tac?

Hmmm... Being a full time builder might be nice as long as you don't have to make the ends meet. Guitar builders who actually make a living on it are as real as Santa Claus, Batman or a clever engineer.

That thing is... ...HOT!