prs man

I don't think you have to worry if it only been a few days. I have worked building furniture for over 20 years and I don't have any trouble. your brother might just had a reaction to the dust or the smell of wood alone might cause some of us to cough. if your going to be doing a lot of sanding you might want to get a few dusk mask and keep them on hand. I can't stand to have one covering my mouth but I love the smell of wood.

yngvay23 I have finished a coule of project and this is what I have done with good results. firtst I have only use lacquer to finish with. you should spay a sealer coat before the tint polyurethane / lacquer. I would first try and mix some tint with poly to see if it will mix together a small amount in a clean glass jar should be cool. add the tint to the polyurethane / lacquer until you get the color you want. I mix my lacquer 1/2 lacquer to 1/2 lacquer thinner I make sure I mix enough or a little more is always good. the first couple of coats will dry vary fast to the touch 5-10 minutes. as you spray more finish you should let dry longer between coats. for drying time with lacquer I wait for a 3-4 of hours between coats. I spray 2-3 good coat with color enough so everthing is covered then spray clear again a few coats untill it is building up a nice finish. hang dry for a few days and you can wet sand it and clean off the frets. wet sand and if needed spray more clear to get a nice finish. if you spray out side and it is a nice 75-80 temp things should dry fast. don't let it dry in the sun the finish could bake and then you have made more work for your self. spraying several thin coats is better then spraying thick coats that might run and dry slow. you don't need a lot of pressure to spray with I use about 40 spi. again these are things I have learned from my finishing project things may be different with your project. good luck to you.

I would say to stay away from poplar I think it is to soft for a finger board. it however would be cool in a body [paint grade] oak finger board sound interesting I will have to keep that in mind.

if your using a carbide tip router bit you can go 1/4 at a time if its not carbide go 1/8 at a time.

I'm from Grand Rapids where are you

you could use the mahogany and use maple or another wood for top and bottom. you would end up with a body that is a 3 layer blank and I dought you would notice the center wood dirrection because the focus will be on the top and back wood. the sound and the stability will be fine

hang it to spray and you will get a more even coat. don't worry about getting manny coats. you want several coats so when your wet sanding it you don't sand through.

I have a prs style guitar that I used alder for the back and ash for the top. the guitar simply rocks and sounds like a charging rino. I have 2 humbucker in it duncan 59 in the neck and a jb in the bridge. I used a hard tail [string throiugh] bridge I will say this about ash for a top it is hard but worth it when done. to carve the top I started with a router then went with a small 1'' hand plane and file and scraper to do the contours top and back. there is nothing wrong with using ash. the grain in ash is so nice to look at I finished it in a clear cherry red there is nothing wrong with a solid mahogany body. after building a few guitars I find when building with alder or mahogany for back and ash or maple for tops the sound is nice and well ballenced.

never seen that kind of wood could you post a picture

the last thing I read was vanhallen used red spray paint. now what I would do to avoid getting into trouble in this project. have the guy your building this for pick out the red paint himself. good luck with this one there are so many different red paints out there.

the guitar that I love to gig with and never have trouble and it plays and feels great is a mij strat with rio grande muy grande pickups. the other is my prs artist and a prs custom 22. I don't normally gig with the prs stuff. the fender stuff just feels better on the gig. the strat already have been dinged and scratch up and it feels comfortable and don't have to worry about getting another dent or scratch in it a friend of mine past away and I picked up the strat and played it all day thinking of my friend so I don't think I would ever sell it I even put a sticker on it that has his name [ KIK AND ASS MUSIC] now every time I play it I will think of a good friend

I trhink that would be cool. use quartersawn would be a good thing. do you know how to glue flat sawn wood to make it into a quartersawn neck.

try http://www.jcguitars.com I bought some tuners from them and they are cool and noit a lot of $$$

the stew Mac files are vary nice once you get a diamond file you won't go back to traditional fret file.

I bought the diamond file from stew Mac. I first used a friends diamond file and that is what sold me. the file worked fast and smooth with out any trouble they $$ more but worth every penny. I would say if you can get the diamond get it you will be a happy guitar player. before I started doing my own fret jobs I spent more to have some one else do it for me. that being said over the years I will be better off. hope that helps

get a stew Mac fret saw. http://stewmac.com/ they have everything you will need if your like me and like making fret boards out of different woods like blood wood or purple heart this might be cool for you.

put this on a flatt surface then put some weight on top of it for a few days that might do the trick. the figuring is not bad looking to me but I know what you talking about this is not what you had in mind.

Setch I must say those are with out a dought AWESOME. I'm working on a project with p90s and these would look great. I will have to give it a try again the p90 cover are AWESOME.

Hi dayvo that is up to you and what how you want it to feel I have both satin on one guitar and gloss on another . for me I like the gloss but there are player that like only satin. my prs are gloss but the fender stuff is satin.

the neck tenon should go under thew front pickup you my not have enough glue surface into the body.

thegarehanman I work with some wild veneer what size do you need. send me a pm and I will explain what the deal is. it will cost you nothing more them shipping I have a woodcraft in my town and if you let them they will take you last penny so if I can find what your looking for to bad for woodcraft.

I thinnk that would be cool the glue joint in normaly stroger then the wood itself. I say go for it.

Hi MP63 I'm glad to see some one is looking at jeff millers building style. you can do it any witch way you want. looking at jeffs guitar it seems his neck tenon went under the bridge. mounting bridge studs on top of the neck tenon will be just fine. thinking about it the top wood is what you will be mounting the bridge into so what ever is under the top will not be touched. if you like jeff's guitar build you should check out his c.d. I don't understand why he is not sighned with anyone. I'm starting a guitar with this kind of long neck tenon I'm making my neck tenon go in my body long enough to be under both pickups. the tenon will be just sort of the bridge.

recycling is great. I do recycling wood I get from work. if I don't take it it might end up in a land fill some how. I don't know much about birch for a tone wood. do more research on the internet. hey you might get a great tone from using birch when used as top wood and alder for the back. if I had some birch I would use it and not give it a second thought. people get a good sound from bass wood and that is so soft and dents easy. I say if you got birch go for it.

ryanb is correct when he said there is a lot of other woods out there to chose from. I don't need to say this but stay away from pine. good Mahogany is getter hard to find for sure and when you do find it it has a high cost to it. I would say try another wood for your first building project and save the mahogany for another time. cherry or alder, poplur is nice to work with. the table thing would be cool if the wood is solid and not covered plywood. a table from norway might be worth more then building a guitar from it but hey what ever works for you. I live in the usa and work in a office furniture shop. I honestly know your feeling in my heart. I use to feel the same way you feel now about building with wood that is endangered. I would be at working and have to cut up mahogany wood that was 12 feet long and 30 inches wide nice and clean on both sides [ looking awesome] this made me sick to chop up a board that long and wide. my point is the wood that is avaible to you what ever it might be has already been cut and there is nothing you or I can do to prevent this and life goes on. there has been some nice wood cut up I would have wanted to have for my projects. bottom line is if you don't build with it some one will and they might use more then is needed. if it makes you feel better you might try and plant some trees to replace what you used to build with. I don't know what kind of stuff grows in norway but any tree would be cool. Unrealize I hope that helps you feel better about your building and the wood you choses. good luck to you.