curtisa

Check you have the bottom lug of the tone pot grounded to the case. One of the pickups is wired out of phase. Swap the two wires from either pickup on the associated switch.

Try this: http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/SB_wiring_diagram.php

Good luck

OK, well the criteria for what you want still seems pretty broad, but how about: Wiring diagrams for 2 Humbucker guitars Pickup and control mods Onboard preamps I'm not familiar with the BC Rich Mockingbird. Is this the one with the rotary switch that controls the variable tone circuit? If you don't like how the circuit works, why not just remove it altogether?

Is it the rotary switch you hate or the pickup combinations that it does you hate? There's lots of ways to add the Black Ice to a guitar (the product literature offers a few ways to do it), but if you have something a bit more specific in mind you'll need to provide a bit more information as to what it is you want to achieve. I don't think that will have the same effect as having a wah pedal on the floor without building the rest of circuitry associated with a wah pedal as well. Assuming that's what you're aiming for, of course - can you elaborate a bit more on what kinds of improvements you're wanting to do?

Moved to the Tech Area -> Electronics chat for better housekeeping.

Yeah. English sunshine coming through the windows - definitely worth photographing, don't see it too often... Ohhhhhhhh, the fretboard!

If the heel is shaped to suit a specially profiled upper-fret access it won't be interchangable between lefty and righty. That's about the only thing I can think of other than what you've already highlighted.

Congrats on your win, @Andyjr1515. Your bendy, topsy-turvy bass creation finally cracked it

I see we have performed thread derailing most eloquently once again, dear chap..

For some reason I misread that as 'My pants, damn it'. Either way, I sympathise

Thanks for the revisit on your thread, Scott. I always enjoy watching your progress. Bonus points for the correct, Queen's-English spelling of 'arse'.

To the best of my knowledge, a radius on a fret board can only be achieved two ways on a CNC. Either the Z axis travels in an arc as it tracks from left to right across the face of the fret board: Or the cutter moves along the length of the fret board at discrete heights and creates a staircase pattern that approximates the intended radius which must be later processed to remove the ledges created by the cutter: The first method would result in less work, but would take longer to complete. The second would be quicker to complete, but requires more effort to finish off.

Wood dust (any type) has been classified as a carcinogen by several organisations for many years. Shell dust is also a problem, not only due to the probable carcinogenic effect of inhaling a fine powder into your lungs, but also due to some types of mollusc shell being toxic to humans when ground up into dust and inhaled. Just be sensible about your exposure to any dust you create - wear a mask, work in a ventilated area and you'll be fine.

I think a lot of us noobs also took inspiration from your photo essays. I'll buy you a drink if you ever make it this far south of the equator. Carry on.

That sounds more like error in how the multimeter is being used. If the amp is on and otherwise working, it is impossible for no volts to be present on the red wires of the transformer. My understanding from the last time this topic was raised was that you removed the amp from its original case to install it in a new one of some kind. In doing so, the transformer had to be moved because it wouldn't fit in its new location, and the wires had to be extended to reach the circuit board. Can you remember where the transformer was located relative to the circuit board? If the original red wires were only a couple of inches long, then the black wire couldn't have come from any further away than the red wires. Post some more pics of the circuit board near where the extended wires have been soldered on. I have a sneaking suspicion that the extended red wires and the black wire should be on that 3-pin plug near the edge of the circuit board, but I think this can be confirmed with decent photos.

Element 14 Mouser Digikey Even eBay if all you want is a bunch of generic capacitors to experiment with. Guitar components are a license to print money, but the reality is that some of the key parts used (selector switches, push-pull pots, stacked pots, long barrel output jacks) are niche items within the broader electronics component industry. That said, you can save money if you pick your fights. If all you want is an Orangedrop cap for your tone pot, then there is no reason to shell out several bucks from Stewmac. The ones made by Vishay are available from any of the above suppliers and are exactly the same for less than a dollar. A Switchcraft 6.5mm open-frame output jack will be cheaper. The Bourns GTR series pots are about half the price as the CTS ones, and are quite well regarded. Alpha pots will be cheaper if you're not paying Stewmac for them. Mini toggles.

I thought that picture looked familiar: Did you try some of the checks suggested in that thread? Measuring ohms between each of the the yellow wires and the and black wire? Looking for solder pads with evidence of the end of the broken wire still attached? Can you post a clear close-up pic of the area around where the two yellow wires are soldered to the circuit board (top and bottom side if possible)?

Have you tried FretFind2D? You can export a DXF file directly from the webpage which can then be used to create the necessary G-code for driving the CNC.

"Width at Nut" and "Radius" are important measurements, but you need to make some more measurements to make sure you get the right one. The table doesn't show any further useful information such as the height of the nut, string spacing or the required width of the shelf that the nut rests on. Have a look here (click on the "Technical Drawing" button) and compare the dimensions of your nut with the measurements shown on that page. Assuming your neck is actually a Wizard II with a 43mm nut width you can straight away discount the R1, R2, R6 and R7 nuts (too narrow) and the R5 nut (too wide). It's also worth noting that there appears to be a discrepancy in their drawings that may require emailing Schaller to check. The radius on the drawings for all 10 nuts is shown as 10", but the table on this page (under "Guidelines") suggests that the R9 and R10 nuts are 12" radius. If it turns out that all their nuts are 10" radius, I'd be wary about replacing the nut on your guitar with a Schaller version.

I can't answer that for you. You have the guitar, so you must make the measurements of the existing nut to work out which one is a suitable replacement

I personally don't think that is a good comparison to your situation. Like I said earlier, you need to weigh up the cost of installing an Edge into a low-cost instrument not designed to have it installed, against all the potential issues that you may come up against in the process: Do you have the tools and experience to do this yourself (extra risk)? If not, do you have the money to pay for someone to do this for you (extra cost)? What if the installation goes badly and your guitar is left unplayable or disfigured? Can you recover the instrument if that happens (sentimental value)? If you're happy to take the risk on the guitar, then it's entirely down to you to make it happen which ever way you see fit. However, if any of the above points makes the job unattractive to you, can you achieve what you want by other means: Can you retrofit a different bridge that doesn't require large amounts of work in its place? - Probably (as per the discussion on installing a Gotoh, Schaller or Original Floyd Rose bridge). Can you retrofit locking saddles from another bridge in place of the existing saddles? - Possibly (requires some investigation by you). If the above points still makes you cautious about modifying the guitar, then you need to ask: Is the guitar worth modifying to that degree, either based on the money required or if the instrument is special to you? Would the money be better spent on a different instrument that does what you want it to without requiring modification?

The Schaller drawing for their OFR says that the two E saddles are 7.4mm high, the A and B saddles are 7.9mm high and the D/G saddles 8.4mm. If you draw a circle through the tops of the saddles given that they are spaced at 10.8mm apart, the resulting radius is 320mm, (about 12"). If the outer saddles are raised slightly, the radius of the circle becomes bigger. Raising the outer two saddles by 0.15mm makes the circle radius 412mm (16.2"). In the picture below, the little white crosses indicate the tops of each of the six saddles on the standard Floyd Rose trem. The green curve is the resulting 12" radius that passes through the tops of the saddles. The red dashed curve is the 16" radius created if the 1st, 2nd 5th and 6th saddles are raised in height by 0.15mm: The radius of the nut cannot be changed, so you must pick the right one to suit your neck. The length, width, height and string spacing of the nut will also limit your options. If your neck is 16" radius, the #10 nut in that chart appears to be close enough to work (15" radius), but only if the other dimensions of this nut are a close match to your existing nut, so compare the measurements of your nut with those listed in the chart. The #3 nut may also be close enough to work (12" radius), but you may notice a change in feel in the lower frets. I personally wouldn't use any of the other nuts as the difference between a 10" radius nut and a 16" neck is too much and will cause significant intonation and playability issues. Alternatively if your existing nut is still OK, you can always leave it in place and just change out the bridge.

Measure the length of the block in your existing trem before you place an order. The Ibanez S body is quite thin and may require a block that is shorter than normal. I think the standard block length on the Floyd Rose is 37mm, but you can also get them with 32mm blocks. It should be possible to customise the radius of the bridge by shimming with thin strips of metal underneath the saddles. Shimming the E, A, B and E saddles up by 0.15mm will give you an approximation of a 16" radius with a set of OFR saddles designed for 12" radius. The nuts can also be ordered with different sizes and radii, so consider that if you're also looking to replace the nut on your guitar. Floyd Rose have a chart of their nut sizes here.

I don't think you're going to find a tutorial specifically describing how to achieve what you want. The cavities appear to be different enough to require some degree of woodworking. A secondhand Edge trem seems to be in the vicinity of $150 - $250. They're usually pulled from scrapped guitars, so their condition may be less than ideal. That alone may be worth more than the value of the S270 on the secondhand market. You need to decide if you have the tools and skills to pull this off successfully, or are willing to pay someone to do the work for you. The risk by having this modification performed, and it not going well, is that you end up with a guitar that is unplayable, several hundred dollars out of pocket and a guitar that is worth nothing if you try to resell it. Have a closer look at the Wiki page 10Pizza linked to. It has the installation manual for the Edge trem including some critical measurements for the bridge - the post spacing, the size and shape of the spring cavity. My understanding is that the STR101 is similar in size and shape to the Lo TRS or Lo TRS2. Information on the web suggests that the Original Floyd Rose will drop straight into the Lo TRS cavity with no rework required, and hence may be a direct replacement for your STR101. The German-made OFR (or the licensed unit made by Schaller) is a fine double-locking bridge with a radius of 10" or 12" (by removing a shim of metal under the middle 4 saddles), which will probably be close enough to match your 16" radius neck to get away with. Alternatively the Gotoh GE1996T is supposedly a drop-in replacement with a 14" radius. Both are less than $200 new. Have you considered just replacing the saddles with Floyd Rose originals? They may fit and will be a lot easier and cheaper than retrofitting the whole Edge trem. Measure your trem very carefully and compare with the measurements of the Gotoh GE199T or the Floyd Rose Original. Someone here may be able to provide you with measurements of the Edge to compare with as well.