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curtisa

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Everything posted by curtisa

  1. Instead, we're lucky enough to have some of the worlds most venomous snakes and spiders. Watch out for Dropbears, too! ;-)
  2. 26 degrees is nuthin'. Hottest day on record in Australia is 50.7 degC at Oodnadatta in South Australia. Adelaide, Alice Springs, Darwin, Mebourne etc regularly get over 40 in summer. Typical "hot" day in summer for us Taswegians would be mid 30s. Hottest day in the part of Tas I live in was in January 2013 (41.8). That was pretty hard going.
  3. If you've got a bench grinder you can make your own fret end nippers from a regular set of electricians' end nippers by grinding the faces down to flatten them to a true flush cut. They're no good for stainless steel frets, but you'd be hard pressed to find any set of end nippers that will cut SS without being destroyed. These were a pair of generic of Crescent end nippers from the hardware store, maybe 30 or 40AUD at the time. You should undoubtedly be able to get them cheaper if you hunt around:
  4. Ohhhhh, today was a nice, balmy 10 degrees. Snow down to about 200 metres above sea level. Everyone here is strolling around in shorts and sandals and heading to the beach for a quick tan and a game of beach cricket. 26 degrees? Bah! That's a comfortable spring day for us.
  5. I reckon you could just about carve the Sunday roast on those edges. You're funny.
  6. Interesting project you have here, Andy. The neck/body join, being so far up the neck (pretty much all the way to the 24th fret), makes it look unnaturally huge! Dealng with the bridge will be a challenge, especially if the neck is through-body. I was initially going to suggest you could treat it like an acoustic neck reset - steam the neck off the body, re-angle the heel block and then re-attach it - but that's not going to work if the neck extension forms the centre block. Recess the bridge? Replace with something lower-profile? Both options will be difficult if the lateral curvature body carve continues between the two bridge posts.
  7. Rustins Danish. The cold and damp means that it takes well over a day for oil to dry sufficiently to sand and re-apply. I could bring it into the warm house to finish, but it'd stink the place up more than she-who-must-be-obeyed would let me get away with.
  8. Probably about time I update this a little. Have been a bit too busy to spend a lot of time in the workshop, but things are gradually progressing along. Side dots in: Neck carved: Fretwork complete: Oiling the neck has started but progress will be slow as the temperature here has well and truly dropped for winter. Just visble in the last pic at the headstock, you can just make out a recess in the face. This is for the aluminium bracket used to secure the string clamps. I had to lower the height of the nut bracket to allow the string clamps to sit lower behind the nut. Without it the clamps would have secured the strings too high to give enough downwards pressure in the nut slots.
  9. Quick and dirty suggestions/opinions: The easiest option provided you have enough adjustability in the bridge to make it work, and can live with the look/feel of an overly-high tailpiece. Will be tricky to achieve without the use of a router and a jig to angle the cut properly. Definitely the hardest option. May possibly be not that hard to achieve. Careful planning and some kind of flat surface to attach some sandpaper may be all that is required. And if it all goes belly up you'll have to resort to the fallback plan and..: Which will probably have more than enough strength to hold the neck in place under the tension of the strings, despite it being more of a bolt-on neck remedy. Provided the shim covers the full area of the mating surfaces in the neck pocket I can't really see why gluing a neck with a shim would be any less secure than gluing the neck without.
  10. The Free-Way Switch is a unique take on the traditional 3-position toggle switch manufactured in the UK in by switchgear specialists NSF Controls Ltd. The switch first made its debut fitted to one of Jimmy Page's Les Paul® Custom model in late 2007 for Led Zeppelin's Ahmet Ertegun Tribute Concert, allowing the three humbucker-equipped instrument to achieve six individual pickup combinations using an ingenious traverse toggle mechanism. By flicking the actuator perpendicular to its normal direction of travel an extra 3 positions become available to the player, doubling the tonal permutations offered with a standard 3-way toggle, without resorting to installing push-pull pots or mini toggles. The most recent incarnation of the Free-Way switch expands on the flexibility and build quality of the original switches to provide more diverse switching options in a long-lasting, easy to use package. Free-Way boast an endurance of 1 million operations over the lifespan of the switch. The range features two versions - the 3x3-03 with 15 termination points and the 3x3-05 with a whopping 28 termination points. A sub-variant of the 3x3-03 is also offered - the 3x3-04, specially made for JJ Custom Works, which features fixed pickup combinations for a dual humbucker guitar incorporating series, parallel and coil split functions. All switches are available in nickel or gold finishes and can be purchased with a variety of different coloured tips. From the outside the switch doesn't look any different to a normal 3-position toggle, making it attractive to those people wanting to upgrade their guitars without changing the appearance. The only hint that the switch has some tricks up its sleeve is the actuator leaning slightly to one side. Around the back of each switch, the mechanism is a sealed unit inside a small metal canister. Each termination point for the contacts of the switch is presented on a small printed circuit board with gold-plated solder pads. Each version of the switch also includes a larger pad specifically marked for ground connections (labelled as 'GD' on the circuit board), which also doubles as the grounding connection for the metallic parts of the switch. Due to the overhang of the circuit board the switches are slightly wider than a traditional toggle, with the '05 model being the largest of the two, but much shallower being only half as deep. Despite its bulk the larger '05 model is designed to still fit into the toggle switch cavity of a Les Paul. Model Overview The '05 model can be considered the equivalent of a 6-position rotary switch, where six incoming signals can be sent to the outgoing side of the switch one at a time. The switch contains two independent halves, each containing a one-of-six selector allowing for a wide range of pickup combinations, splits, kill switching, passive with piezo pairings and even options for Strats, HSS and HSH-equipped instruments . The '03 model is actually quite a complex beast, despite being half the size of the '05. The first three positions on the '03 behave the same as a standard 3-way toggle, providing Signal A, Signal A+B and Signal B combinations. Moving the switch to the next group of three positions adds an additional layer of signal pairings but operating under a slightly different system, expanding the combinations to Signal C, Signal D+E and Signal F. As for the '05 model, each half of the switch is completely independent to the other, and a total of 12 different switching combinations is under the control of one lever. With such a bewildering array of combinations possible in one switch it's easy to get lost trying to figure out exactly which contact does what for each position, so Free-Way helpfully provide a pack of example wiring diagrams covering various pickup combinations to help get the ball rolling. The schematics are clearly laid out and only require some minor interpretation on the part of the user to ensure that pickup wiring colour codes are correctly translated from the ones shown in the diagrams to those fitted to your guitar. Both switches come with plastic tips that can be unscrewed from the shaft and exchanged for different colours - cream, black and amber tips are available. The thread on the shaft is quoted as M3.5, but unfortunately this appeared to differ from the Switchcraft and no-name Allparts toggles I had on hand In use With the trusty soldering iron warmed up I decided to dive right in and retrofit the '03 switch to one of my SR-series guitars. This instrument is fitted with two Seymour Duncan 4-conductor humbucker pickups. I normally keep the control layout on these guitars fairly sparse and basic, with only a 3-way toggle and single volume pot, but the option of adding some coil split functions to this instrument while keeping the control layout uncluttered is attractive. The original wiring layout of the guitar is shown below: To get things started I turned to the example wiring schemes provided by Free-Way, narrowing down the choices to those that allowed me to retain the standard bridge humbucker/bridge + neck/neck humbucker options that the original toggle provided, while adding some interesting coil split functions in the alternate group of three positions. As the wiring for these switches is quite a bit more involved than a standard toggle, it pays to do as much work on the switch as possible outside of the instrument. A small piece of MDF with a 1/2" hole drilled through, clamped to the workbench makes a quick and effective holder for keeping these switch from twirling around on the bench while trying to solder wires to the pads: A few notes on working with these switches. Some of the wiring schemes require that adjacent pads are soldered together. The gold plated pads are spaced deliberately close together to facilitate this, and unless care is taken it can be easy to inadvertently bridge two pads together by applying too much solder. Your choice of soldering iron can make a big difference to working with the delicate nature of these solder pads. A fine point, temperature-regulated iron is recommended to make easy work of soldering wires to the termination points, while minimising the risk of damaging the gold pads by overheating. Good soldering technique will assist in fitting these switches into the guitar too, as space inside the cavity can get cramped very quickly. Free-Way suggest that wiring all the solder pads to external screw terminals can assist in installations where the user wants to try out several different switching schemes without having to re-solder the switch multiple times over. However, the requirement for a generously-proportioned control cavity may prevent some users from achieving this, as was the case in my situation. Making several connections to one pad can be tricky too, as previously soldered wires have a tendency to spring off once the next wire is added to the connection. Some careful manipulation of connections is often required to get everything to stay put. Alternatively it can be beneficial to plan ahead where possible by twisting multiple conductors together and then soldering the bundled wires to a pad in one go. After an hour or two of careful soldering, poking and prodding, the switch was finally bolted into the cavity and the wiring taken for a test drive: With the actuator in the down position (away from the player) the toggle operates the same as the basic 3-position unit it replaced, with bridge humbucker/bridge hum + neck hum/neck hum combinations. With the particular wiring scheme I chose to use, pulling the actuator upwards engages the three alternate combinations of bridge hum + neck split/bridge split + neck split/neck hum + bridge split. The physical action of the switch itself is positive, with a decisive latching feel as the toggle is moved between positions. Pops, clicks and other extraneous electrical noise is as low as any other good quality toggle switch. Quickly changing between the two traverse modes takes a little getting use to, but otherwise the usefulness and practicality of the switch is immediately apparent. As mentioned earlier, the outward appearance of the switch is virtually indistinguishable from the toggle it replaced: Summary The Free-Way switch makes for quite a powerful upgrade to a guitar's pickup selection system that will appeal to people wanting to create new and unusual switching schemes without resorting to adding multiple controls. The quality of the switch appears to be very solid, and while working with the wiring can at times get a bit cramped, it is well worth considering as an alternative to a traditional 3-position toggle, or even as a substitute to a 5-position blade switch. Pros: Good build quality and mechanical feel Excellent documentation Massive range of switching possibilities with only one control No change in instrument looks for situations where external appearance is important Cons: Larger physical size can be a problem in cramped control cavities Soldering can be fiddly ---------- Thanks go to Free-Way Switches for providing the units used in this product review!
  11. Nice. I see you've thought of everything.
  12. Stunning, Scott. Where's the arm for the Floyd Rose go?
  13. CA (superglue) or epoxy should be fine with almost any timber/inlay combination. I've only had issues with CA when dealing with pale, soft, open-pored timbers like spruce where the glue tends to wick into the wood fibres.
  14. It may still be possible to save the blank. The butt joint probably won't have enough strength by itself, but a short scarf might. You'd need to re-cut a longer extension to replace the piece you've already made. If you cut it right the join would be hidden from view inside the neck pocket (except from the treble side, where you won't look for it anyway)
  15. Probably shielding. Easy way to tell (if you still have the pickup) would be to ohm it to the ground connection on the pickup cable. Omeg used to do MOQs of 100 pieces, don't know if they still do. Looks like you can request mixed value wafers on their dual gang product selector too.
  16. Different people will have different takes on the "correct" order to do things. At the end of the day it comes down to what works best for you. There are a couple of things worth thinking about though: If your inlay passes through fret slots you may want to consider inlaying before slotting. Inlaying after radiusing the board can make cutting the pockets for your inlays tricky, as there is no longer a flat surface to work against. Binding a fretboard is easier if you have some flat surfaces to work with. This may mean that binding has to occur before the fretboard is glued to the neck, or that the neck is not shaped until all the binding is complete If you're going to bind a fretboard, slotting needs to be done first because it will be impossible to cut the slots without cutting through the binding. You'll also need to plan ahead to make sure the slots are the correct depth before attaching the binding.
  17. Group some of your grounds together and then daisy-chain them up to complete the full circuit. That'll save some space. Ground wires don't need to be massive shoelace things. Small flexible stuff is perfectly acceptable. Volume pot needs one of its tabs grounded - usual practice is to fold it backwards and solder it to the case. Volume pot case will be grounded to the copper shielding, so no need to ground the shielding seperately. Each pickup has a shield/braid and maybe one extra wire that will need to be grounded - twist the braid and the extra wire together and treat as one wire to be grounded. Twist both pickup sets together and solder a short fly lead from the pack to attach to the nearest ground (say the back of the volume pot). Insulate the twisted pack with tape or heatshrink to prevent accidental shorts. Make the fly lead long enough to give you some slack and flex when fitting or removing the scratchplate. Cap on tone pot needs to be grounded at one end - solder to the back of the tone pot. Case of the pot will be grounded via the copper shielding when it's bolted on. No need for a specific ground wire here (unless you're unsure about the conductivity of your copper shielding, in which case it's just one extra wire). Switch may need a ground wire depending on your wiring scheme (coil splits/taps) - attach to the back of the tone pot or volume pot. If the switch has a separate tab for grounding the frame leave it off - it will be grounded by the copper foil on the scratchplate. Bridge ground wire - attach to the tone or volume pot. That just leaves the ground to the output jack - attach it to either pot. Should be possible to do everything with 2-3 ground connections to each pot. The ground lug on the jack is usually big enough to fit 2 or 3 wires simultaneously, so if you run out of space on the pots you can always move some of the grounds here too. Unless you've got mountains of space inside the cavity I wouldn't bother with quick connects. They're easily 3 or 4 times bigger than the ground you're trying to connect to.
  18. Pretty much. It matters more when you have two completely independent paths to earth where significant current flows (eg, one guitar feeding two guitar amps), or you have different circuit elements trying to dump current into a common grounding point (eg, the pre and power stages in a big PA amplifier). The chances of being able to get a ground loop to form inside a guitar are vanishingly small. At the end of the day there's only one way for all the grounds to get out of the guitar - via the socket. Best thing for them, really ;)
  19. Don't sweat it - no such thing as a ground loop in a guitar. Ground whichever way you feel makes it easier for you. Just make sure your connections are clean and solid. Bus grounding works just as well, as does a cluster of smaller stars joined together. Historically the pot casing was used as it makes a convenient location to attach so many points of the circuit to ground. The fact that it also looks like "star-ish" grounding is a byproduct of its appearance and probably contributes to the myth that ground loops can cause noise in a guitar.
  20. I'd say that those were fightin' words, but I'd be lying if I said that Fosters, Vic Bitter, XXXX etc taste better than epoxy.
  21. So that must be carbs rather than carves, then? Or maybe the carvery? Hyuck! "Watery" will do. I think I was just having a seniors moment when I couldn't think of the right word.
  22. Cheers, big ears. I doubt the carve has removed that much weight to be honest; it's only 6mm down from the top face at the deepest - pretty subtle. Blackheart sassafras isn't a heavy timber to begin with. Plus I've got plenty of chambering throughout, and there's a big chunk of body mass missing from the lower bout and behind the bridge that will be saving about a third of the weight of a "conventional" body shape. Unthinned. I don't want it too un-viscous (de-viscous? ill-viscous?) as I need it to settle into the bottom of each void without bleeding too much into the surrounding timber.
  23. I'm not sure a working humbucker-size driver was ever developed in the big Sustainer thread. I think member 'Col' attempted to build one, but I'm not sure it went very far. There is a lot of chatter, hypothesising and distractions going on in that thread (part of the reason it was eventually closed down), so sorting out the useful information from the noise is quite difficult. The basic DIY system consisted of a coil of wire wound around a metallic core. I think it was 200 turns of 0.2mm enamel copper wire. The driver amp was just a glorified transistor radio speaker driver based on the ancient LM386 chip. Some people got good results based on this formula, many people didn't. I built one that worked, but it was very temperamental. The simple circuit and construction method meant that anyone could have a go at building one, but not everyone shared the same degree of success. Many ideas were thrown around to try and combat the deficiencies in the basic design (poor note selectivity, feedback between driver and pickups, high amounts of interference and noise etc), but to my knowledge there wasn't an awful lot of success. If you're a practical kind of person I'd say have a go at building one - they're a lot of fun in use - but be prepared for it not to work as well as a genuine Fernandes Sustainer.
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