ibreakemineedtobuildem

Im talking about the edges not the fretting or glueing surfaces. The board on its "edge" isn't straight,it's curved.The other side of the curved side has a hump. So the fretslots at the Bass end and the treble end would be fanned in a little.(assuming they used a square blank) If you know what I mean,do you think I could bend it back?

I have been using slotted boards for a while now.My problem was I would only buy the one I needed for my project. Last time I bought 4 boards to have some extras. So I build one and a couple months I go to start another. I put a straight edge on the boards and one edge is cupped while the other has a hump.The same for all of them. The wood moved on me. My last build got trashed because I was having trouble fretting.I kept thinking I must have bent the wire because it wouldn't go in the slot.I'm thinking the slots were slightly un true due to the bending of the board. So is there nothing you could do for these,seeing as the slots now are probably going around a slight corner?

Feel the hate for purpleheart. I like it for laminations with maple. I would think that purpleheart and Padauk could be very stiff and bright sounding. I'd make two necks using Padauk and maple or mahogany for one and purpleheart and maple for another. To each his own though. Which ever way,good luck and have fun

I'm getting a little 12 inch lathe to turn some pens and pepper mills very soon. Give those a try to get the hang of turning.

So what is it I like about super light mahogany compared to a heavy piece?I always thought the word was sustain lol.I guess I mean something else. Thanks for clearing that up for me

Doesn't more weight mean less sustain? I find lighter pieces to be much more resonant and vibrate more freely.

I've heard different people describe Walnut differently. I built 3 guitars and 2 necks with it and found it was dead. That could be the quality of Wood I got,I don't know. People who use it for gun stocks say they use it for it's Shock resistance quality. Like it absorbs vibrations or something. That's exactly what I found it sounded like.....like it absorbed the sound to the point of deadness. All opinion though

I love those leads on Carcass Heartwork too.They have a crispy sound to them Comfortably Numb-Floyd/Dave

Don't over radius too much.Especially with a binding. I messed up my first boundboard that way.It was rosewood board with a maple binding.The maple being softer than the Rosewood gave the fret end something to dig into. I am soooooo dumb

It's the thickness of the baseplate.

I use PC Drummer trial and then record the patterns with soundblaster sound recorder. The trial won't save pattern sequences.Just record them

There is Tried and True Varnish oil.It's completely non toxic and simple to apply. I like the Lee Valley/Southerland Wells polymerized tung oil more but that isn't non toxic. Im no finish expert but my 3 tung oil guitars are much more durable than my 2 linseed based finish guitars. As far as dents go,I hear they effect your picking and the sound of your amp.

Instead of having to continue radiusing it down to thickness,just take it off the bottom.

I've bought a lot of parts from Choppers.The shipping time for me is 2 weeks. I've requested parts and he got them for me.Good guy.

Man!That is sweeeet.Great work as usual I would say you rock for any age

Thanks for the feedback Yeah, the neck PU sounds like a good idea.I'd like something that would contrast the XL500 in the bridge. I think I might actually add a volume and tone pot on the side by the input. I'm not sure on the body finish yet.Either the varnish oil or a wipe on poly. Anyone else find it hard to get body bevels perfect with a rasp?They are almost there but I think the novelty of hand rasping bevels is over for me when a bit will do it faster and better.

Pretty basic.It's a 24 fret 25 inch scale neck that I haven't made a body for yet,just a neck pocket template from it. It has 3 Thin coats of Tried and True Varnish oil with a few more to go.That stuff smells goooooood That's my first volute.I decided to make a little round for comfort because I'll go over it in the first fret position sometimes. http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h193/ibr.../birchneck1.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h193/ibr...dem2/birch7.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h193/ibr...dem2/birch3.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h193/ibr...m2/warlock1.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h193/ibr...m2/warlock2.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h193/ibr...m2/warlock5.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h193/ibr...m2/warlock6.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h193/ibr...m2/warlock7.jpg I still need to finish rasping all the body bevels.(time to spring for a chamfer bit) This is the second body for this neck after a bonehead pickup route.The body is 7/8 walnut and 7/8 Mahogany. I'm goin to install a 3 way toggle with no cavity or pots.The bridge PU is a XL 500 and the neck is undetermined. Hipshot bridge. Graphtech nut. Gotoh tuners I think birch is under used.It's not as hard as maple but close,and the quartersawn figured pieces are awesome. Walnut is a very workable wood IMO.

Came across this site.Nice pix [url="http://www.truenorthguitars.com/InTheShop/index.htm"]http://www.truenorthguitars.com/InTheShop/index.htm[/url]

http://www.luthiers-international.com/ I thought some people on the west coast might enjoy this.

I was wondering what setup most use to route their headstock bindings. Stew Macs Archtop router base?Laminate trimmer? thanks

Very Very Cool guitar.I LOVE Black SG's now

Was it that some of the arm contours were inconsistant?

Where did you get that pic?I'm sure that is my sample pic.

That looks like the finish on my first guitar.That looks like the sample pic I took Try Aniline dyes.I mixed yellow and blue.I stained it,sanded it back to darken grain.Then filled grain with clear epoxy and sanded that back. Then stain again with yellow blue mix.My last coat was pure blue and it came out the exact color in your pic. Don't forget to test on scrap

Misfits/Ramones.