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Painting questions answered


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[quote name='deadmike' date='May 10 2005, 06:18 PM']painting question:

im using nitro cellulose rattle can, black gloss.

after about 8 light coats the guitar was looking great, no depth, but still great! but then after that the coats were coming out with bubbles in a localised area of the body. after sanding them down and respraying the pitting left behind filled up no probs and left no sign of bubbles.... only to have bubbles appear in other areas. the endless cycle began!

ive tried to keep the spray area as clean as possible. could this be caused by contamination? i sanded and prepared this particular area (the front) alot better than the rest of the guitar and wiped it all down with white spirits before spraying.

whats causing the bubbles???
[right][snapback]190916[/snapback][/right]
[/quote]

I had this same thing happen when i sprayed my guitar on a cold, cloudy morning... cam home from school and sprayed it and it was hot and dry out. This caused bubbles and i was told it was bc of the shift in climates. You wanna try to spray in an area that has a controlled climate, but since this is unlikely for a hobbyist (like me) i always try to spray in the middle of the day, so it doesnt get too cold at night or in the morning while its initially curing.

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is it possible to give some guidelines on what finishes work together successfully?

As an example, I'd like to dye a guitar & then clear over it. I'm concerned that if I use a spirit based dye then use a nitro sealer it might cause the dye to run....then adding clear coats might make it worse?

sooo.....maybe someone could fill us in on how to layer finishes, eg. does nitro work over acrylic...does polyurethane react to latex etc?

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I am re-finishing a japanese strat. I'm not sure what kind of wood it is, but it feels pretty heavy. I've sanded it down completely(w/sp as fine as 150 so far). I was planning on painting it white blonde & clear coating it w/the aerasol cans from guitar re-ranch(paint & clear coat). I don't have spray guns & I would be doing it in my garage. It's currently about 40 - 50 degrees outside. Can I get a good result w/these aerosol cans or would I be better off just taking it to somebody & paying them to do it. & does anybody know what guys who refinish guitars charge to do this.

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[quote name='LGM Guitars' post='15606' date='Jul 27 2003, 12:24 PM']Step 7, ok, last step (hmmmm, and 7? LOL) while you were ordering from stew mac, you can order some swirl remover, I like to apply it with the foam buffing pad you can buy and chuck in your dril. . once you've got it all polished with the swirl remover, leave it sit another 3 or 4 days, then, put your guitar back togehter, and enjoy it.[/quote]

no buffing? when is buffing required and will using those high grits (6000 and on) have the same effects as buffing?

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Please tell what are Arylic Lacquer paint not Arylic water base paint.
Can we get good finish with them ?
They are very cheap and easily avaiablei n my area in every hardware store.
About $ 1-2

Can clear clear coat lacquer can be used as sand sealer ?

In stew mac site they are using NC lacquer as sand sealer

Thanks.

Edited by ubaid88
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[quote name='Dirge for november' post='375355' date='Apr 15 2008, 08:48 AM']When you refinish a guitar, is it not possible to only roughen up the previous paintjob and use this as a base? Or only strip about halfway?
Cheers[/quote]

absolutley. i dont know why so many people are so set on stripping the whole guitar. i like just scuffing and repainting. works awesome for me so far.

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