2.5itim Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Looks pretty good man!! What kind of tooling are you using to cut it? Only reason I ask is for the ridges in the shelf, now that you've already got this one finished you can sand these to make it smooth but for future pieces I can help you come up with a spindle speed and feed rate that will get rid of them and give you the longest tool life, I would just need to know the diameter of your cutter, how many flutes it has a what material it's made out of either high speed steel or carbide. Are you taking the full depth in one pass? Getting good finishes in the metal world is all about finish passes, that looks to be a pretty shallow cut but even raising the cutter up .005" running your program and set the cutter back down .005" and running again can make all the difference in it I love seeing people make the things that they need themselves, good job man!! You've earned some points in my book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Good info to bear in mind Tim. By the way, are you sticking with the avatar I lumbered you with, then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Haha sure!! I just got a laptop so maybe I will retry changing it later on with the laptop since it won't work from my phone, but I'm cool with it for now haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 9 hours ago, 2.5itim said: Looks pretty good man!! What kind of tooling are you using to cut it? Only reason I ask is for the ridges in the shelf, now that you've already got this one finished you can sand these to make it smooth but for future pieces I can help you come up with a spindle speed and feed rate that will get rid of them and give you the longest tool life, I would just need to know the diameter of your cutter, how many flutes it has a what material it's made out of either high speed steel or carbide. Are you taking the full depth in one pass? Getting good finishes in the metal world is all about finish passes, that looks to be a pretty shallow cut but even raising the cutter up .005" running your program and set the cutter back down .005" and running again can make all the difference in it I love seeing people make the things that they need themselves, good job man!! You've earned some points in my book. Thanks Tim. The cutter was a twin flute 1/8" diameter carbide endmill, feedrate 150mm/min, RPM...whatever the maximum my machine is capable of doing (supposedly 10K, but probably less once it was cutting). Outline was done first to a depth of 2.5mm, ramping into the cut along the left hand side until DOC of 0.5mm was achieved, then running around the circumference in 0.5mm DOC passes.. The ledge was done by zig-zagging around to remove the waste starting from the "open" side, DOC 0.5mm, gradually working outwards towards the edges, with each path overlapping by 1mm. Final depth of the ledge is 1mm below the top surface, so two full runs of 0.5mm DOC to get there. Holes were done with a two flute 1.5mm diameter endmill, helical interpolation at 0.5mm height intervals to a max depth of 1.5mm below the ledge. I only wanted to get the holes started in the CNC and finish them on the drill press. In hindsight I probably could have included a finishing pass to remove some of the chatter marks, but having just sprayed a coat of etch primer on it they're completely invisible now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 The world's smallest headplate? Once the epoxy has dried and is scraped back, all is revealed: Finally make a start of carving and contouring. I'm shooting for a simpler carve on the top than my usual, so I've gone for a basic curve that goes across the face of the whole body, a little like the Ibanez S. Nothing special about the rear contours, except that I can't make the belly cut too deep owing to the chambering immediately behind the carve. Last step for the evening is to start filling the voids and birdseyes in the myrtle with clear epoxy (couldn't resist spreading a little around to highlight the figure). There'll be plenty more of that to come yet as the blackheart sassafras is full of little pin holes all over. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 You'll regret spreading that epoxy around once you come to levelling Andrew! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 On 6/26/2016 at 6:27 AM, curtisa said: Once the epoxy has dried and is scraped back, all is revealed: Afterimage......how appropriate. I really like the carve and timber. This is going to end up looking mighty fine even if it is anatomically challenged. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 8 hours ago, Prostheta said: You'll regret spreading that epoxy around once you come to levelling Andrew! Nah. That's such a thin coating it will disappear in no time under the ROS. Scraping each of the little fills back flush will take much longer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 7 hours ago, ScottR said: Afterimage......how appropriate. I really like the carve and timber. This is going to end up looking mighty fine even if it is anatomically challenged. SR Cheers Scott. The carve was far easier to achieve than the one I've been doing up till now. Less time fiddling with angles = quicker result = happier camper. It might be anatomically challenged, but I reckon you'll barely be able to tell you have a guitar in your hands. I haven't put anything on the scales yet, but the body feels like it weighs about a kilo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 Stunning skills on show all round and this is looking really attractive. I'm surprised how light it's coming out to be, although it is always impressive just how much bulk a 'good carve' removes. I shared the fear of the epoxy but it probably looks much thicker than it actually is. In terms of thin application of epoxy, do you thin it and, if so, what do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Stunning skills on show all round and this is looking really attractive. I'm surprised how light it's coming out to be, although it is always impressive just how much bulk a 'good carve' removes. Cheers, big ears. I doubt the carve has removed that much weight to be honest; it's only 6mm down from the top face at the deepest - pretty subtle. Blackheart sassafras isn't a heavy timber to begin with. Plus I've got plenty of chambering throughout, and there's a big chunk of body mass missing from the lower bout and behind the bridge that will be saving about a third of the weight of a "conventional" body shape. 2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: shared the fear of the epoxy but it probably looks much thicker than it actually is. In terms of thin application of epoxy, do you thin it and, if so, what do you use? Unthinned. I don't want it too un-viscous (de-viscous? ill-viscous?) as I need it to settle into the bottom of each void without bleeding too much into the surrounding timber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 I've done quite a few good carves, and I haven't lost any weight. Gained a bit, I'd say. I'd say that the antonym of viscous would be "watery" simply low-viscosity? I prefer to think about these things in terms of surface tension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 14 minutes ago, Prostheta said: I've done quite a few good carves, and I haven't lost any weight. Gained a bit, I'd say. So that must be carbs rather than carves, then? Or maybe the carvery? Hyuck! 15 minutes ago, Prostheta said: I'd say that the antonym of viscous would be "watery" simply low-viscosity? I prefer to think about these things in terms of surface tension. "Watery" will do. I think I was just having a seniors moment when I couldn't think of the right word. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 Think "Aussie beer"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 1 hour ago, Prostheta said: I've done quite a few good carves, and I haven't lost any weight. Gained a bit, I'd say. Carving things like a roasted haunch of beef, glazed hams, and smoked briskets will do that sometimes I'm told. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 11 hours ago, Prostheta said: Think "Aussie beer"! I'd say that those were fightin' words, but I'd be lying if I said that Fosters, Vic Bitter, XXXX etc taste better than epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 At the very least, they need some more hardener adding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted July 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 Probably about time I update this a little. Have been a bit too busy to spend a lot of time in the workshop, but things are gradually progressing along. Side dots in: Neck carved: Fretwork complete: Oiling the neck has started but progress will be slow as the temperature here has well and truly dropped for winter. Just visble in the last pic at the headstock, you can just make out a recess in the face. This is for the aluminium bracket used to secure the string clamps. I had to lower the height of the nut bracket to allow the string clamps to sit lower behind the nut. Without it the clamps would have secured the strings too high to give enough downwards pressure in the nut slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 Slow and steady wins the game. How much does the temp change affect oil curing where you are? In fact, which oil are you using this time around? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted July 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 Rustins Danish. The cold and damp means that it takes well over a day for oil to dry sufficiently to sand and re-apply. I could bring it into the warm house to finish, but it'd stink the place up more than she-who-must-be-obeyed would let me get away with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 Ah. You've been told. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 Anyone know what to do with all these wires? These Fishmans are actually pretty well equipped in terms of options. Out of the box you get the usual plug-in type connectors to get things going with basic EMG-esque ground/9V/signal terminals for each pickup. But then they throw in extra cables for each pickup to allow you to switch between two voicing options, a low gain option and a high frequency cut. On the back of each pickup they also include solder pads that allow you to split the coils aswell. Pretty neat. I may yet re-make this nut. I accidentally took the top surface down too far, and while all of the strings have sufficient clearance at the first fret, the nut slots are barely there. The only thing that has me hesitating on it at the moment is that the string locks being so close to the back of the nut means that the strings seem unlikely to jump out of their slots while doing bends in the first few frets. @KnightroExpress - I hereby take this opportunity to steal your independent saddle grounding idea, but I will raise your method slightly by perforating the two layers of conductive tape with an Xacto knife so that they are guaranteed a reliable connection: The black powder coating on the underside of each saddle needs to be removed in order to get a good connection to the grounding strip. Nothing a few seconds with the Dremel can't fix: Near enough to a dead short for this boy: Damn close to being done: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 Man, this is looking great! I can't wait to hear it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 8 hours ago, curtisa said: Damn close to being done: I was starting to wonder if you'd ever get there, what with the once a month updates. As always, it looks fantastic. Just goes to show that while taking your time is not so good for guitar watchers, it is very good for guitars. Carry on my friend, whilst we wait with bated breath. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 9 hours ago, KnightroExpress said: Man, this is looking great! I can't wait to hear it. Thanks, Knightro. Guess that means I'll be expected to bust out my mad roxxorz skillz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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