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Pariahrob

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Today was a good one. I got a lovely package from Monty's guitars. This is the set of gt500 pickups for the semi hollow. I've been chatting Matt for a while now and think these will be just right. Not cheap but think they'll be worth it. 

What gorgeous attention to detail. lovely packaging and materials look second to none  

Now to finish the thing so I can hear them!

 

IMG_3098.JPG

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I love the raw nickel finish. Very cool. I'm sure it's a great pickup, but I often wonder how much of that money goes into covering the (ultimately useless) packaging? I'd be happy receiving the pickup rolled in foam in a Jiffy. That's just me though. I'm sure that people expect no less of me in this regard. :lol:

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On 30/04/2017 at 4:28 PM, Prostheta said:

I love the raw nickel finish. Very cool. I'm sure it's a great pickup, but I often wonder how much of that money goes into covering the (ultimately useless) packaging? I'd be happy receiving the pickup rolled in foam in a Jiffy. That's just me though. I'm sure that people expect no less of me in this regard. :lol:

I'm going to visit them soon and film an interview plus install. I'll see if I can get an answer. 

Small progress today. Managed to get my fret markers in. Brass tubing with ebony dust filler. 12th fret on the board still needs a layer of filling but looking nice. Then time to polish the fretboard and get the frets in. 

Brass circles are a theme for this. Brass washers for machineheads, pointers for controls etc. 

IMG_3117.JPG

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Nice looking fretboard!

May I ask how do you level the brass tubing flush to the fretboard?

Because I'm planning to do something like this on my single-cut build but with stainless steel instead (I'm aware that stainless is a bit more hard to work with than brass)

I was thinking diamond file maybe....

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1 minute ago, Polymaker said:

Nice looking fretboard!

May I ask how do you level the brass tubing flush to the fretboard?

Because I'm planning to do something like this on my single-cut build but with stainless steel instead (I'm aware that stainless is a bit more hard to work with than brass)

I was thinking diamond file maybe....

I started out cutting as close as I could with a cutter on my dremel. I tried a junior hacksaw first but the dremel meant less worry about knocking other areas. 

After that I actually used my fret bevelling file in its 90 degree slot which meant it was easier to make sure they were perfectly flush. 

Mill go over the whole board with some finer abrasives before I put the frets in. That'll get rid of tool marks and I'd have done it anyway, to polish the ebony. 

Using brass is fine as it's soft and ebony is pretty hard. You might find it harder work with the steel but a little time and effort goes a long way. Plus you'll get a bit of a cardio workout!

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3 minutes ago, Pariahrob said:

I started out cutting as close as I could with a cutter on my dremel. I tried a junior hacksaw first but the dremel meant less worry about knocking other areas. 

After that I actually used my fret bevelling file in its 90 degree slot which meant it was easier to make sure they were perfectly flush. 

Mill go over the whole board with some finer abrasives before I put the frets in. That'll get rid of tool marks and I'd have done it anyway, to polish the ebony. 

Using brass is fine as it's soft and ebony is pretty hard. You might find it harder work with the steel but a little time and effort goes a long way. Plus you'll get a bit of a cardio workout!

Thanks for the info!

I've just noticed that the side dots looks like they are made of brass tubing too, where do you find such small brass tubing?

Is there a special name for that kind of tubing? Because I also planned to make side dots like that.

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When I used brass tube dots on one of my builds I bought the tubing at a local hobby shop. Places like HobbyTown USA or Tower Hobbies likely have it.

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32 minutes ago, Polymaker said:

Is there a special name for that kind of tubing? Because I also planned to make side dots like that.

I just got it on eBay. 2mm brass tubing but I've seen it in hobby stores as well. Not sure if it has another name. 

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A double cut file brings metal inlays down to the wood nicely. They cut through the metal at a nice rate and tend to be slower if they hit wood. Works fine for steel, aluminium, brass and copper.

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Question: I have a tonepros avt2n for the semi hollow and wonder what the posts are made of? I know the studs are brass but no idea if the posts are. Does anybody know? 

If they are I'll strip the nickel as I think bare brass would look great along with other brass details. 

 

Thinking about it, same question for the saddles!

Edited by Pariahrob

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On 4/28/2017 at 2:41 PM, Pariahrob said:

Today was a good one. I got a lovely package from Monty's guitars. This is the set of gt500 pickups for the semi hollow. I've been chatting Matt for a while now and think these will be just right. Not cheap but think they'll be worth it. 

What gorgeous attention to detail. lovely packaging and materials look second to none  

Now to finish the thing so I can hear them!

 

IMG_3098.JPG

 

 

+1 for Monty's!

I've know Matt's missus for knocking on 22 years, and Matt for at least 12 or 13. Lovely bloke, who is really passionate about what he does and really believes in quality craftsmanship. Lovely packaging.

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7 hours ago, Pariahrob said:

Question: I have a tonepros avt2n for the semi hollow and wonder what the posts are made of? I know the studs are brass but no idea if the posts are. Does anybody know? 

If they are I'll strip the nickel as I think bare brass would look great along with other brass details. 

 

Thinking about it, same question for the saddles!

 Are they heavy? Magnetic?

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It won't tell you what it is, but it will help tell you what it isn't. Brass isn't magnetic, however it's probably easier to scratch the plating. If it's non-magnetic, light and scratches to a silvery finish underneath it's likely a zinc alloy like Zamak. If it's yellow, you're looking at a brass alloy, or perhaps if you've not scratched deeply enough, a copper or brass mid-plating layer.

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Well they aren't magnetic but I don't it's brass as they are very light. This design is different to many and it's really just a cap that screws into the stud. The studs themselves are brass. 

I may may make some but for now I'll leave as is. I haven't made huge progress due to a big animation job but it's now fretted, which feels like a big step! A final polish and they'll be good to go. I did the whole nipped tangs and filled ends for a smoother look on this one.

IMG_3156.JPG

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Mmmm.... that's a reminder to me to nip the tangs on my new build. I've had boards that have 'settled' over time and it's the tangs that are then very sharp and make it feel like a duff fret job....

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4 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Mmmm.... that's a reminder to me to nip the tangs on my new build. I've had boards that have 'settled' over time and it's the tangs that are then very sharp and make it feel like a duff fret job....

Every winter after a build I get fret sprout. The wood shrinks in the dryer air and the frets do not. A diamond card normally used for sharpening blades run along the edge of the fretboard cleans it up quickly and if a fine grade one is used only minimal or no marking of the edge of the fretboard occurs.

SR

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Ok. Time for me to reap the rewards of all your combined knowledge. 

The neck and body on this build are sapele and such doesn't need much actual grain filling but I think it could do with a light coat of sanding sealer. 

My problem is that I want an oil and wax finish and not sure if this will be ok?

my plan was to do sanding sealer (Liberon), followed by finishing oil which has a tiny bit of brown stain, then finish up with a light coat of renaissance wax. 

Something is nagging me about this but no idea what. 

Many thoughts?

oh and the maple top will have the same oil and wax but will be stained my in a caramel whiskey colour (water based). 

Thanks all!

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If I recall, sanding sealer is meant to be like an easy-to-sand base coat for lacquers. In fact, it is lacquer but with stearates of some sort added in which makes it easier to sand back. It soaks in a bit and locks up the surface so the subsequent layers of real lacquer don't sink/shrink in forever.

If it's about filling the pores, then the way you apply oil can manage this part. If it's a polymerised drying oil then you can sand it into the surface on the first coat, which creates a slurry of wood and oil which fills the pores in no time at all. If it's the Liberon Finishing Oil, I'm unsure how well that works. It's pretty thin penetrative stuff so might just be slower at slurry filling.

So yeah, sack off the sanding sealer. If anything it will prevent the oil from doing what it's best at, and that's penetrating the wood surface. Liberon Finishing Oil has a very low surface tension so soak, wipe back after a few minutes and lightly wet sand with oil.

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Thanks! 

Ill skip it and go for the finishing oil (not Liberon oil). Slurry idea sounds like a good trick and the pores in sapele are so minimal that should work just right. 

Cheers!

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Give it a try on scrap. It's surprisingly simple. Just keep wiping the wood back against the grain and let what you've packed in solidify.

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4 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Give it a try on scrap. It's surprisingly simple. Just keep wiping the wood back against the grain and let what you've packed in solidify.

Exactly what I did this morning. V simple process and looks and feels great. 

I'll let it harden and tomorrow will give the test some wax but I'm confident this is the way to go. 

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It might take a couple of sessions to get a clear flat fill, however as long as they're closed then that's most of the battle.

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