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ZekeB

Opinions on Design Direction

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1 hour ago, Prostheta said:

Sound construction also. Everything needs to be built for purpose.

True.

SR

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So I've decided I don't like black.  Took pictures of the actual wood and hardware and used photoshop with the blueprint to play with colors and proportion everything correctly.  what you guys think?

image.png.bb9531dffc6ecbf5d419d109259ee2f7.png

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That's a keeper.

And it will be a stunner if you come anywhere near that.

Time to make some sawdust.:)

SR

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very nice.  i really like how you've shown the body contour with gloss.  how did you do an irregular contour like that in photoshop?

one thing that stands out is the 5 way and vol knob does look a little close when in fwd position but that may just be a taste thing more than anything else.

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Thanks.  I copied the the areas I filled in from the vector file and lowered the opacity on photoshop.  Then I used the eraser with a very low hardness to taper in the edges.  All about the layers :)

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Resaw the mahogany for the backplate cover.  Took a while but was a nice clean cut.   Shouldn't be too much planing 

20180609_213624.jpg

20180609_213606.jpg

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After planing I'll find my center lines for the body and cover plate to line the grain up.  redo my larger template and start shaping the body and routing a preliminary cavity where the neck pocket will end but top plate will cover. 

Edited by ZekeB
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On 6/9/2018 at 9:44 PM, ZekeB said:

Resaw the mahogany for the backplate cover.  Took a while but was a nice clean cut.

That's a healthy sized piece to resaw. What did you use to do that?

SR

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27 minutes ago, ScottR said:

That's a healthy sized piece to resaw. What did you use to do that?

SR

 

I would imagine effort, persistence and some swearing. At least, I would have use those. Probably in reverse order.

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I used a 24" hand saw.  It took a while but it paid off.  Just a matter of taking your time and finding that rythym.

 Just a labor of love and shallow pockets, haha.  I enjoyed it regardless.  My planer is a little too narrow too so I'll be getting some more cardio tonight.

Edited by ZekeB

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15 hours ago, ZekeB said:

I used a 24" hand saw.  It took a while but it paid off.  Just a matter of taking your time and finding that rythym.

Wow - I'm impressed

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Some new developments.  Didn't like the plane so I made a sled jig for the router.  Worked great.  Didn't take long at all after everything was set up.  

Down to 1 3/16" for the lower body.  That leaves 3/4 for the maple top for a total of 1 15/16".  Wanted to see what you guys though about that thickness.  Seriously thinking about bringing it down to 1" to have a 1 3/4" guitar. 

It may be worth noting the top will be a deep carve.  1/2" carved top.  Don't know if that would effect anything.

I know I may being picky but this is my first big build so everything is priority until I know what I'm doing.  

20180615_151425.jpg?psid=1&width=493&height=875

20180615_152947%201.jpg?psid=1&width=493&height=87520180615_153632.jpg?psid=1&width=493&height=875

Edited by ZekeB

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The only thing you really have to worry about concerning thickness is having enough space for your controls and hardware....and construction stability lest one wants to push the absolute limits. Everything else is about looks and feel. My builds typically are at least 2.5" in the center, down to .75"or less at the edge of the forearm side. Check out @Andyjr1515's last several builds. He's barely pushing the one inch barrier.

SR

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I did some research last night as well.  I'm going to keep the thickness.  I think it'll make it feel more for and organic with the carving room.  Thanks!

 

Edited by ZekeB

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17 hours ago, ScottR said:

The only thing you really have to worry about concerning thickness is having enough space for your controls and hardware....and construction stability lest one wants to push the absolute limits. Everything else is about looks and feel. My builds typically are at least 2.5" in the center, down to .75"or less at the edge of the forearm side. Check out @Andyjr1515's last several builds. He's barely pushing the one inch barrier.

SR

As Scott says, I've been going slimmer and slimmer.  The balance of factors is basically: thickness is about weight; thinness is about practical considerations of functionality.

For a neckthru, the considerations are accommodating the depth of the pots, etc and the depth of the pickups and fixing screws.

For a bolt on, the additional consideration is the neck pocket platform.

Additionally, balance has to be considered if the body is light and the strap button (top horn) is rearward.  My personal conclusions so far are:

1" is about the limit for a neckthrough but this takes careful choice of hardware.

1 1/4" allows use of a standard jack rather than a cylinder jack and also is about the limit for a bolt on

1 1/2" allows some deeper electric such as some push pull pots but is about the limit for the heavier woods 'normal' weight without chambering

1 3/4" without chambering is going to be heavy with many woods

Above 1 3/4" without chambering for the heavier woods is going to be too heavy for many players

I stress these are personal conclusions...  :)

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1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

As Scott says, I've been going slimmer and slimmer.  The balance of factors is basically: thickness is about weight; thinness is about practical considerations of functionality.

For a neckthru, the considerations are accommodating the depth of the pots, etc and the depth of the pickups and fixing screws.

For a bolt on, the additional consideration is the neck pocket platform.

Additionally, balance has to be considered if the body is light and the strap button (top horn) is rearward.  My personal conclusions so far are:

1" is about the limit for a neckthrough but this takes careful choice of hardware.

1 1/4" allows use of a standard jack rather than a cylinder jack and also is about the limit for a bolt on

1 1/2" allows some deeper electric such as some push pull pots but is about the limit for the heavier woods 'normal' weight without chambering

1 3/4" without chambering is going to be heavy with many woods

Above 1 3/4" without chambering for the heavier woods is going to be too heavy for many players

I stress these are personal conclusions...  :)

I should add - when I say 'chambering' should include other forms of material reduction, such as significant external carves ;)

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Right, that's it. I'm going to need to do something heavy now to spite you Andy! haha

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51 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Right, that's it. I'm going to need to do something heavy now to spite you Andy! haha

You wait until you are as old and decrepit as I am, you young whippersnapper, Carl.  You'll think, "If only I'd taken notice of...er...hmm...well whatever his name was, and I might have been 6 inches taller in my old age!"

Mind you, I wasn't even 6 inches taller as a young man...:lol:

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Thanks for the input guys.  I've going to need a 1 3/8" depth for the switches I want so I'm going to keep it a little broad.  I think I'll enjoy a fuller body as well as long as its fitted to me.   I'm going to make a big control cavity which I think will counter the weight problem.  I'll also be carving a good bit of the top maple as well so I'm aiming on those to help make it a reasonable weight.

Just ran it the through for the clean cut on the router.  Turned out real clean and sharp.  Sanded the top and the figure is nice and strong.  Here's the shot without mineral spirits.  

20180617_225527.jpg?psid=1&width=506&height=900

 

Edited by ZekeB
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Oh, and I got an assortment of hardwoods to make some control knobs.  

Got wenge, zebrawood, padauk, walnut, and few others to choose from.  

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one more note.  changed the design to compensate a traditional truss rod at the the headstock vs the body with a hex nut.    Added some ring covers as well. to help fill out the void area.

Mako_with_single_coil_covers.png?psid=1&width=962&height=334

 

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