Guitarfrenzy Posted August 16, 2004 Report Posted August 16, 2004 I've been working on a new tutorial on how to build a neck jig from scratch. It's not completely done but I thought some of you might want to check it out if your interested in making one of your own. Guitarfrenzy - Building A Neck Jig Quote
Drak Posted August 16, 2004 Report Posted August 16, 2004 When do you find the time to actually build guitars? Your tuts are so well done and organized and edited, I can't imagine you have much time left over! That is a great tut, and one day I will probably build that jig from your tut, so thanks in advance. You make it look easy enough that the average Joe could pull it off no problem-o. Seriously. Quote
Daniel Posted August 16, 2004 Report Posted August 16, 2004 Very professional and helpful. Thanks! Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 16, 2004 Report Posted August 16, 2004 (edited) post deleted Edited December 7, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted August 16, 2004 Author Report Posted August 16, 2004 Thanks guys.. I don't know how it turned out so far, but I felt I could have explained some parts better. I hope you can actually understand all the steps so far, I'm worried that I didn't quite explain things the way I could have. It sure beats paying 355 bucks for one though. Soapbar.. the one I have built didn't have any steel bearing for the rod, but that's because I never actually have seen those neck jigs up close, so everything I'm doing is from researching. Although I don't have a problem with the steel rod as is, but I'm all for making it better. If you have one, why don't you help out and give me some dimensions on yours and tell me about what kind of steel bearing you made for yours. I'll make sure you get credit for it. Thanks Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 16, 2004 Report Posted August 16, 2004 (edited) post deleted Edited December 7, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted August 16, 2004 Author Report Posted August 16, 2004 How far does the sleeve go down into the wood? All the way through or just a little at the top? Also, I'm thinking of modifying this one also, and putting more support rods to make it more stable. I just figured if you had the Neck Jig on hand you could give me the placements of the rods exactly, but I bet I'm really close. Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 17, 2004 Report Posted August 17, 2004 (edited) post deleted -- not the proper forum for info given Edited December 7, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted August 17, 2004 Author Report Posted August 17, 2004 I just used a guitar as my guide to where I located each one. I watched the fretting videos with the Les Paul and noticed where each rod and DI came into contact with the neck and then translated it over from my Les Paul. Actually I don't think that the support rods matter as long as they are close. The DI's are a different story though, so I was extra careful with them. Like I said I'll probably put like 4 more support rods in this bad boy for added support. I can order some sleeve bushings like you decribed from Grainger I just looked them up, but for now I'm content with the way it is. Can you get someone from home to do some measuring for you? That would be great if you could. Quote
SguitarM527 Posted August 17, 2004 Report Posted August 17, 2004 and the award for the guitar builder of the year goes to, guitar frenzy... very well done, your work is very beautiful. Quote
Kevan Posted August 17, 2004 Report Posted August 17, 2004 This one is kinda odd: It's a project, for guitars, about building a tool. LOL GF- when it's webpage is complete, maybe we can add this to the Tools section as well? Let me know. Thanks. Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted August 17, 2004 Author Report Posted August 17, 2004 This one is kinda odd: It's a project, for guitars, about building a tool. LOL GF- when it's webpage is complete, maybe we can add this to the Tools section as well? Let me know. Thanks. Actually Kevan I couldn't really decide where it needed to go either.. lol Let me know if I broke another rule.. I seem to be good at that lately. Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 17, 2004 Report Posted August 17, 2004 (edited) post deleted -- not the proper forum for info given Edited December 7, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted August 17, 2004 Author Report Posted August 17, 2004 I'm not gonna use the sleeves just yet, it's very stable as is, but It shouldn't be any problem adding them later. Just drill the hole out slightly bigger to accept the OD of the sleeve and make sure the ID is 3/8" for the support rods. I can just redrill the holes out on the sides to go through the sleeve. That's a great suggestion though, I think I'll make my next neck jig out of metal. Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 17, 2004 Report Posted August 17, 2004 (edited) Post deleted-- not proper info for this forum Edited December 7, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted August 17, 2004 Author Report Posted August 17, 2004 I think I'll make my next neck jig out of metal. Here's a metal one. It is made sort of like I will probably make another one (If I do). Those table legs I found look like the poles on the one in the picture (except mine are chrome- the best things are free !) http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/toolti...ts27miller.html If Stew-Mac was smart, they'd still sell plans for their neck-jig. I didn't have any problem paying them $25.00 for the plans they sold many years ago for the "luthier's workstation/neck jig " bench. Yeah I already read that article and it that's what's got me wanting an all metal one. I also liked the idea of the dial indicator on top of the headstock. I had heard that Stew Mac used to sell plans for the neck jig, but I haven't been able to get my hands on the old plans myself. It's like the one you have, a workbench type. I say as long as it makes your guitars play great, use it.. lol Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 17, 2004 Report Posted August 17, 2004 (edited) Post deleted-- not proper info for this forum Edited December 7, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted August 17, 2004 Author Report Posted August 17, 2004 Yes, I have been all over Joe's site.. lol His doesn't look pretty, but it works. He just stacks lumber up to however high he needs the guitar body to be, and throws a heavy rug across it to protect the finish. KrazyD and I was talking the other day about someone on Ebay who was selling the metal bar like Driskill uses that's attached to the side. Also, very nice idea about the DI for twist puposes!!!! I don't know if anyone else gets into more discussions about fretting than me and you.. And yes, I .. Must ,.. build .. more neck jigs.. lol Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 17, 2004 Report Posted August 17, 2004 (edited) Post deleted-- not proper info for this forum Edited December 7, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted August 18, 2004 Author Report Posted August 18, 2004 I guess we might seem like we are going way overboard to some people, but to me a good fret job is the key. The guitar can look beautiful and have all kinds of pretty inlays, but if it plays bad, then I don't want to play it until it's corrected. I had done my share of fret leveling without the neck jig, so I can honestly tell you it makes a world of difference. BTW.. umm.. I'd love to see those original plans... I think KrazyD was gonna buy that bar, and the bar was actually threaded from what I can remember. I don't know if he bought it or not though. I looked on ebay today and didn't see it. It's just a metal bar with alot of support rods, and small thumbscrews. As far as Bryan Galloup goes, I didn't realize he started the tilting craze, but on the advanced fretting video he doesn't even do it, because he said he knows his necks so well. I'm actually wondering how much it helps tilting. Do you notice any considerable difference when you use the playing position tilt method? Quote
krazyderek Posted August 18, 2004 Report Posted August 18, 2004 here's the auction GF was talking about http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...me=STRK:MEWA:IT I decided not to go with it, i'm going to laminate a beam and make my own from scratch too Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 18, 2004 Report Posted August 18, 2004 (edited) Post deleted-- not proper info for this forum Edited December 7, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
daveq Posted August 18, 2004 Report Posted August 18, 2004 Frenzy - I was just about to send you a PM asking if you had time to work on the neck jig tutorial and then I saw it listed here! I really appreciate the effort you put into it and especially like the parts list. I wasn't expecting it to be a difficult project but the parts were the one thing I was concerned about. You've taken my worries away! Do these jigs improve fretting work noticeably or is it one of those things that takes time to get used to? In other words, when people start using them, should they expect to see the benefits right away or does it take time learn how to get the most out of it? One last question - the dial indicators - I'm thinking that the biggest issue with them is repeatability and not so much accuracy? Are indicators typically spec'd to show repeatability or is it just something you have to hope for? I ordered some from an auto-repair supply company a while back but I don't remember if they had any info like that. Did Harbor Freight list info like that? Thanks for posting it when you did - you just saved me a bunch of searching. DaveQ Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 18, 2004 Report Posted August 18, 2004 (edited) Post deleted-- not proper info for this forum Edited December 7, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
daveq Posted August 18, 2004 Report Posted August 18, 2004 OK, well - I was just looking for an opinion on how much the jig contributes to comming out with a great playing neck. I have read that article and I do understand the idea. Concerning the repeatability issue- What I mean, is - if the device measures a 5mm thick piece of plastic but the plastic is actually 5.3mm - BUT it always measures it as 5mm - that would be a good degree of repeatability but not accuracy. From what I know about the jig, the actual accuracy of the indicator isn't important but the ability of the indicator to return to the exact same position is. From what I remember, you're not actually using them to measure something but using them to return to the same exact position. I don't want to turn this into a big argument but I just wanted to make myself clear. I've done some more research and found that repeatability is usually spec'd on dial indicators - that's really all that I was trying to find out. I'm glad to hear the harbor freight indicators are working well for this - those things do come with a great price. I've also heard that some people really like their power tools as well but I don't want to start that debate here. Great tutorial GF and thanks again for that parts list! Quote
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