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LGM Guitars Leviathan 7 is now complete!


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Yesterday marked the beginning of a new era.......

Well, for LGM Guitars anyway.

The new line of Leviathan guitars is nearly complete, the 7 string is the first.

Now this may be the words of a proud papa speaking, but I have owned 8 different 7 strings and played probably 15 different 7's in total. NEVER have I played one that sounded this good and played this easily. Of course it's the first guitar I've ever had that was made to my spec either, but it plays better than I could have asked for.

The Evo7 bridge pickup in the alder body has enormous crunch and bite but is still so warm it's incredible. The Blaze 7 in the neck position has a smooth amazing lead tone and a gorgeous clean tone.

The upper fret access is simply the best I've played on any guitar with the possible exception of the Washburn EC29 which of course is a neck thru guitar.

The guitar balances perfectly with the extended upper horn and has no tendency to fall headstock towards the ground.

The neck is blisteringly fast and incredibly thin at a thickness of 16.5mm at the nut and Dunlop 6100 fretwire.

In the end, I love the guitar. I've never played a 7 that felt so comfortable to me.

So, without futher adieu

LGM Leviathan 7

Leviathan7%20small.jpg

Here's links to bigger pics of it :D

Leviathan

Leviathan body

Leviathan headstock

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This guitar is mine, I am keeping it for myself LOL.

This one is not perfect as it was a proof of concept, the body underwent various changes and such so there are a couple things not perfect, but no big deal to me.

As for the questions from guitarfrenzy,

The truss rods are from allied luthierie and are nice and thin dual action truss rods.

There is a 6 string model as well as an 8 string model. The 6 and 7's will be available with trem's or fixed bridges. The 8 string is fixed only.

The 8 string is a 27" scale with an option of a 36 fret fretboard as well.

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I have to say, that is one gorgeous guitar. You must be proud. I really like the cut outs in the body shape. It just gives it enough flair to make it your own custom shape without being so over the top that it is unfamiliar.

Great inlay on that fretboard too. Where did you get the design for that?

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I've been meaning to buy some truss rods from Allied for the longest, but just haven't gotten around to it. They look like the same ones that LMI sells but for a much better price. I figure the guitar is bolt on, since the back of the neck seems to be just clear coated. BTW.. how hard was it to paint those inside cut outs? It also looks hard to buff out. You are a brave man.. lol

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Jeremy, thanks for the heads up! It is awsome, I wasn't into the shape at the begining, but I must say it looks nice, and that black 8str that you posted was sick! I'm so jellous of you guys that can spray poly... The guitars look so much deeper and shinny that the ones I spray. And with less work. I wish that when I decide to make somenthing out of my mind it will come half as good as that. Thanks for all the help and inspiration.

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I'm curious about how the fret-boards are shaped. Since you say it plays so good, I'm wondering if you're using some kind of "neck-jig" device, or at least putting "fall away" into the board. And your fret-leveling tool of choice ?

I shape my fretboards with a radius jig I built to use on my 99" edge sander, it's basically an A frame design with a swing. The fretboard blank gets double sided taped to a flat board that is suspended by rods hanging from the top of the A frame. The pivot point is adjustable along with the length of rods so that if I want a 16" radius, I sent the peak of the board radius at 17" from the pivot of the rods, then swing the board back and forth over the sander until the radius is sanded into the board. With this fixture I can do compound radius boards easilly as well. (of course every couple passes you have to lower the pivot point a few thousanths of an inch so it keeps sanding)

I can radius a board faster with a radius block, but this is way more consistent and accurate.

As for fretting, I press all my frets with an arbor press, check them all with a straightedge first, then a laser (if you shine a laser down the frets from fretboard board end to the nut you can easily see the high frets since the laser will shine off the top differently. If needed I level first with a high grade machinist file (not the $3 ones you buy at walmart) then continue with a diamond hone, then recheck, and recrown.

Then the humidity changes in the shop and screws everyting all up on you anyway the next day LOL!!!!

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