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The Les Paul Studio Project


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Hey, I have a 1999 Les Paul Studio, which I totally love, and have gotten pretty damn good with for the last 5 years...so the neck is like my baby, and its one of those guitars I simply couldn't sell. It wouldn't feel right. But its getting chipped and bruised and maimed...plus the black simply isn't doing it for my anymore, so its time for a change!

Heres what the guy looks like naked:

lespaulnoparts3.jpglespaulnoparts1.jpg

This month, I want to work on the body only, as the neck has alot of special changes which I'll get to when its ready for a refret (maybe 3-4 months from now)

Here's the stripped body ready for finishing:

lespaulstrip5.jpglespaulstrip2.jpg

Body Plans:

1) Strip

2) Stain top a golden brown

3) Carve a heel joint into the body

4) Tung oil the top/sides/back

5) Leave a natural binding

6) Finish in black hardware

Neck Plans:

1) Strip headstock

2) Remove frets/inlays

3) Plane fretboard

4) Ebonize fretboard

5) Install Mother of Pearl block inlays (maybe some other design..who knows)

6) Install new frets

7) Custom Les Paul Logo on headstock

8) Tung oil natural headstock

9) Finish in black hardware

In the end, I could probably throw it on ebay as a custom shop Les Paul for $3400 :D I just want it to look as good as it plays, and give it some custom modifications.

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lespaulstain1.jpg

lespaulstain2.jpg

This is the top after 2 stains...you can still really see the 3-piece construction. It doesn't bother me at all really.

lespaulstain6.jpg

lespaulstain5.jpg

This is after 6 stains...where I'm at now. I'm really digging the color right now, its gonna look slick with black hardware. I'm tung oiling tonight...maybe even the top.

Edited by litchfield
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Yes is a 3 piece, like the other one he is working one. I guess that Gibson is getting cheap on the solid color tops, and saving the 2 piece ones for the seethru colors...

Getting cheap? B)

Gibson has been making 3-piece tops for over -30- years now. :D

And as far as 'cheap' goes, those pretty quilted 2-piece tops I believe you are referring to are usually Western Maple, which is SOFT maple.

The 3-piece tops are Eastern Hardrock Maple, which is HARD Maple, and tonally -Superior- to the Western Maple pretty-boy stuff.

'Cheap' is in the eye of the beholder, and 'pretty' doesn't always mean 'better', although it does usually mean 'more expensive'. :D

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Yes is a 3 piece, like the other one he is working one. I guess that Gibson is getting cheap on the solid color tops, and saving the 2 piece ones for the seethru colors...

Getting cheap? B)

Gibson has been making 3-piece tops for over -30- years now. :D

And as far as 'cheap' goes, those pretty quilted 2-piece tops I believe you are referring to are usually Western Maple, which is SOFT maple.

The 3-piece tops are Eastern Hardrock Maple, which is HARD Maple, and tonally -Superior- to the Western Maple pretty-boy stuff.

'Cheap' is in the eye of the beholder, and 'pretty' doesn't always mean 'better', although it does usually mean 'more expensive'. :D

Thanks for the lecture all mighty Drak, I had no idea the quilted maple was soft, but thats why I'm here to learn. But wouldn't 2 piece hard maple still look better, I mean for the price that Gibsons goes for, they atta do better...

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The most you get out of Eastern is flame and birdseye figure, but heavy quilted tops is what's selling these days.

But wouldn't 2 piece hard maple still look better, I mean for the price that Gibsons goes for, they atta do better...

Eastern Maple doesn't normally quilt, at least not like Western does, so you choose, tone over looks, looks over tone...

...that came off as a lecture? didn't mean it like that. :D

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Pardon my english. it was the firts word that came into my mind, in spanish, leccion, like teaching... don't get me wrong. On the mape issue, so if I want a bright sounding guitar, I can do a 1" hard maple body and then cap it with 1/2" quilt? I like the look of quilt, better than flamed, bit I like the tone of Zakks and Slash guitars...

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And heres a little test I did on the back. I wanted it noticeably dark next to the top, so I figured maybe a dark stain. Mahogany is way to soft to just put on a stain without sealing it, or using filler...so I decided to try tung oil as a stain AND a finish. I love Tung...and it comes through again. It turned that faded, unhappy mahogany back into a piece of art. Under the right light, its got this huge zebra effect out of nowhere...more than pleased :D

lespaulbacktung1.jpglespaulbacktung2.jpg

lespaulbacktung3.jpg

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Mike, can you get a close up shot of the tenon area inside the neck pickup. I havent seen a Gibson yet, and the Epi that I got dissappointed me, and they are endorse by them.

Sure...I'll take photos tomorrow after I've tunged the entire guitar once.

Which reminds me...could someone advise me with the tung? It went on extremely smooth with the mahogany, but thats because it sunk into the open grain, and regenerated the sanded wood again...it doesn't even feel like a layer of tung is on it. But for the maple stained top...do I just brush it on, and let it settle for a day? It says to buff it into the furniture after 15 minutes...but I bet that would mess up the top pretty bad...we're not working on a piece of a chair :D

Help on how to finish the top in tung oil would be appreciated! I think 2-3 coats would be enough protection...I'd probably recoat every 3 months to keep it protected.

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t says to buff it into the furniture after 15 minutes...but I bet that would mess up the top pretty bad...we're not working on a piece of a chair

Mike,

Just run down to the local hardware store and get some #0000 steel wool. I know it sounds brutal, but trust me it works great. It will take some of the shine out of the tung oil finish, however. When I did my neck this way it left it with a sort of semi gloss or maybe even satin like finish. Felt great.

You're doing a great job! Can't wait to see the finished product.

Best Regards,

Mike.

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Are we talking pure tung oil, or tung oil based finish?

For pure tung oil, I had great luck wetsanding it into the wood with 600 grit sandpaper. It was plenty smooth even at that grit, but I'd reccommend 1200 or higher.

Just leave it to soak in for about 30 or 45 minutes, and wipe off the excess. Leave it for 24 hours, and repeat.

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I am kinda curious about the Maple top discussion. Why would harder Maple be tonally superior to a softer variety? The combination of Mahogany back & Maple top & sometimes back is a blend of soft and hard hardwoods. As far as 1 piece two or three tops, I think if it looks good its cool.

The color you got on the top is very rich and warm, the Mahogany is looking deep. I can't wait to see how that natural binding jumps between the contrasting looks. Very classy!!!! and black hardware should look great against that top.

Peace, Fryguy

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Density my friend. sound waves can travel through a denser material much easier than it can a less dense material, allowing more of the wood tone to be produced.

And clarity.

The hard maple allows more trebles thru and clarity, something any LP can use.

PS, my '73 LPC is natural finished, and is a 3-topper.

It ain't no beauty-queen, but man does it have tone.

Maple neck too, maple board and everything.

Me like. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE! This is gonna be it for a few months. I got the body basically done. I have a black bridge/stop piece, straplocks, and jack plate ready to come and finish off this sucker. I might wash off the one Seymour Duncan logo, but it isn't so bad. I love the look of this thing, especially without the pickguard

studioremake1.jpg

studioremake2.jpg

It's not perfect, but hell...it kicks the black ones ass. I love the all black hardware. When the frets need to be replaced (closer to Christmas, gonna relevel, crown them tomorrow) I will level the board, ebonize it, maybe go for my first inlay job (blocks), and strip/refinish the headstock in a mahogany with a Les Paul Custom type decal.

Until then, this sucker will hit the bars for classic rock covers. Got a Custom in the Bridge and an Alnico II Pro in the neck...TONE!

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