mikhailgtrski Posted May 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2006 After wet sanding with 800 Unigrit and 3 more coats of nitro: mahogany back Just about there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 27, 2006 Report Share Posted May 27, 2006 Looking great! Shielding still needs some completion, though, if that's indeed what I see. I'm droolin' over here, though-- it's turning out even better than it first appeared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted May 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2006 (edited) Looking great! Shielding still needs some completion, though, if that's indeed what I see. Thanks, Greg. Shielding? I guess the flash makes it look like foil, but it's really just the dyed cavities with clearcoat and some overspray fuzzies - to be cleaned up later. I have some copper tape for shielding the control cavity, and I don't shield the p/u cavities. The middle p/u will be direct mounted - no ring. edit: oh duh, you meant the back shot, right? That's just masking tape covering the switch/pot holes. Edited May 27, 2006 by mikhailgtrski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted May 27, 2006 Report Share Posted May 27, 2006 I need a 'Drak smacking his lips in delight' emoticon. That is simply gorgeous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 27, 2006 Report Share Posted May 27, 2006 Mikhail, yeah it was the back shot I was thinking about. Now I'm enlightened. Cheers. If I had thought it through, I should have realized you wouldn't be at the shielding stage yet anyhow. <smacks forehead> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted May 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 These four-day weekends are great. Yesterday I wet-sanded with 1000 Unigrit and drop filled a few spots on the side of the neck that weren't going to fill up with the finish. Today I'm spraying the final (I think) coats. The first one laid down just about perfect. Better lighting + backing off on the pressure a bit (to 32 psi) gave me better control so I could wet it down without any pesky sags or runs. I'll post a final pre-buff pic or two before it goes away to cure for 30-60 days. In the mean time I'll be working on the rosewood "stopbar" and tuner buttons, and getting the wiring sorted out. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted May 28, 2006 Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 Looks fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 One last look before hanging it up to cure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Looks GREAT! Does a guitar get buffed once again once the curing process is done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 If I was going to hang it to dry I probably wouldn't sand much, maybe just level everything, polishing close the surface of the paint making it harder to release the gases thus making the cure time longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Does a guitar get buffed once again once the curing process is done? Not this one. It hasn't been touched - that's just the clearcoat straight off the gun. The plan is to hang it for at least 30 days, wet sand up to 2000 grit, then buff with fine compound and swirl remover. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Does a guitar get buffed once again once the curing process is done? Not this one. It hasn't been touched - that's just the clearcoat straight off the gun. The plan is to hang it for at least 30 days, wet sand up to 2000 grit, then buff with fine compound and swirl remover. Mike [/quote Hey Mike....you've done a fine job to this point ! If I can give ya any advice here it is....get access to a pedistal buffer! You've come this far and I'm sure you want super results at the buff stage.I've used every method out there...hand,car buffers,random orbital pads and foam pads through stewmac. If your going for a high gloss ..swirl marks will haunt you with those methods. Granted you can only catch them in angled lighting. I'm so fussy when it comes to this. The best results I've got without a pedistal buffer would be the foam pads from stewmac....however nothing beats a pedistal buffer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 get access to a pedistal buffer! Loan me yours? Someday when I build a proper workshop (and a real workbench) I'll make the investment. For now it's the stewmac foam pads. Drak gets some amazing results with them, so they can't be all that bad. But thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 The foam pads do pretty well but not as well as a pedistal buff. I'm so picky it drove to buy one! Everyone that's seen my buffs from a foam pad thought they were factory..then again there's always me knowing what's there. Your not going to get a factory finish with those foams.Bottom line is it's what pleases your eye that matters.Just givin ya a heads up as to what to expect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 This will be one hell of a guitar when its finished! Be sure to update us in 30 days time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 Your not going to get a factory finish with those foams. I disagree with that (with typical film finishes like nitro anyway), and if you thoroughly understood what lacquer is and it's properties, and what rubbing and polishing compounds DO to lacquer, then you would realize that the delivery instrument of the compound to the lacquer is relatively unimportant in the process if you have the skills and the experience to operate the equipment to it's utmost abilities. Pedastal buffers make it easier to some extent, but not better, unless you simply don't want to spend the time with the pads to get experienced at using them to their utmost. With any typical film finish like lacquer or shellac, the pads will give you a factory buffed finish. Reactive, 2-part, or catalyst-based finishes, bit of a different story and I would be in agreement that the pads don't work as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 +1. The arbour mounted buff is easier and faster, but you can get an equivalent gloss if you learn to use the other systems to their best effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted June 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 the delivery instrument of the compound to the lacquer is relatively unimportant in the process if you have the skills and the experience to operate the equipment to it's utmost abilities. Drak, stop it, you're making too much sense again. What do you think about ReRanch's take on polishing? - "We use the 3M product, "Finesse It II" going directly from #2000 to final finish. Skipping the white and red steps may take longer to polish but on a relatively new surface the final polish seems more reflective." I wet sanded with 800 grit prior to the final coats, so it's nice and level with just a bit of fine orange peel. I was thinking of sanding with 800 Frecut (dry) after 10 days, then letting it cure for another month or so. Then wet sanding (with mineral spirits vs. H20) up through 2000 grit before buffing. I have the Stewmac Unigrit/microfinishing papers as well as a set of MicroMesh hook/loop discs (w/ matching hook/loop sanding blocks from Rockler)... can't decide which would work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted June 10, 2006 Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 (edited) I usually spray a good 12 coats of clear, hit it back with 220 grit and spray 4 more coats of clear sanding with 400 grit between each. The last coat I do not sand until i'm ready to buff, which I take it level the orange peel with 1,200 (or 1,500) and begin buffing. I use Finese It II Fine Cut buffing compound, which takes out 1,200 grit scratches and more. You can save yourself some work if you sand it with 1,200 and then buff with fine cut. I'm also a big fan of the foam buffing/polishing pads. I mount them in my drill press and run it about 1000 RPM (I believe anyways). Works great, my finishes look way better than most factory finishes. Just another option I thought i'd give to you. The top looks GREAT btw, you did an awesome job dying it man. Edited June 10, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted June 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2006 Thanks, Chris. It's not my first time working with aniline dyes, but it is my first time doing the sand-back, multiple color thing. Rodney gave me some great tips for achieving the tortoise shell look. I lost count of how many lacquer coats I sprayed, probably around 20 to 25. BTW - I ended up discontinuing the heat box halfway through. It was working well, but several times I experienced some small areas of bubbling in the finish - not due to the heat box, but I wanted to eliminate any possible causes. Never did figure out if it was some sort of contamination, a problem with the shellac sealer, or just bad spray technique on my part. I might try it again on the next one. Anyway, after a week it's hardening up well (the neck heel already passes the fingernail test) but it's still gassing off a bit. But I've other things to finish up while I'm waiting. In other news... I got some more brazilian rosewood on eBay for making the tuner buttons, pickup rings, and control cavity cover. I have a bunch of b/r/w pen blanks, but the dimensions are just a bit too small to get whole keystone-style buttons without laminating. I did manage to make a nice bookmatched truss rod cover, and I'll use another pen blank for the stop bar. Oh, and I bought a new DeWalt variable-speed drill today to use with the foam pads... I discovered that the chuck on my old corded drill was trashed. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 ...must...resist...urge...to...buff...out...must...resist...urge...to...buff...out... ...must...resist...urge...to...buff...out...must...resist...urge...to...buff...out... It'll be 30 days tomorrow. The lacquer is quite hard (passed the fingernail test weeks ago) but the body is still gassing off just a wee bit... The neck seems to be pretty much done. Another couple of weeks? resistresistresistresistresist... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarchump Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 You can resist it! Just pick up a new guitar project in the mean time. Thats what I do to reduce the urge. I cant wait to see it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 I can tell you from experience that you WANT TO RESIST. Say it wtih me, I can resist...I can resist...I can resist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 lol, free personal 1 on 1 therapy. Wow, what else can this forum offer !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 Say it wtih me, I can resist...I can resist...I can resist Thank you, Doctor, I feel much better now. Should I hang it in a warmer room? My closet stays around 70° F, but the attic can get over 90° F depending on how sunny it is. I need to fire off that new bandsaw - the tuner button blanks need to be roughed out, and I have some rosewood to resaw for the control cavity cover... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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