Maiden69 Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Getting better!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.thep Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Beautiful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Wow - very nice touches in this project, and a great cohesive instrument all round. Just goes to show that thought has been put into this one from beginning to end. I kind of baulked when I heard changes had been made mid-project, but they seem to have been the right ones :-D I particularly love the quality of your mitres on the fretboard binding. I have a hard time doing that. Any secret you could divulge on that one? Since the maple is undyed, what grit did you take it back to, or has it been burnished? Sorry to grill you mate. I'm considering a natural maple finish at some point myself and it's good to see other people's decision making processes and the results firsthand as it happens. Keep it up man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Awesome! nice photography too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry56 Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Very nice, I'm digging that head stock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted December 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 (edited) Getting better!!! haha I sure hope so. Wow - very nice touches in this project, and a great cohesive instrument all round. Just goes to show that thought has been put into this one from beginning to end. I kind of baulked when I heard changes had been made mid-project, but they seem to have been the right ones :-D I particularly love the quality of your mitres on the fretboard binding. I have a hard time doing that. Any secret you could divulge on that one? Since the maple is undyed, what grit did you take it back to, or has it been burnished? Sorry to grill you mate. I'm considering a natural maple finish at some point myself and it's good to see other people's decision making processes and the results firsthand as it happens. Keep it up man. Yeah I was not so sure about changing things mid project, but thats just the way paul is. I knew he would want -something- changed mid project right after I met him It's not that big of a deal though. I had all the diffrent hardware laying around from a diffrent guitar so all I had to do was make a flame maple jack plate and not stain it orange. For the mitres I just took a razor blade and went very very slow. I sanded the maple to 220 than sprayed the clear. You don't want to sand too high or your finish won't stick very good. When you do a natural finish your piece of maple is -very- important. I choose this one because it is very white and uniform in color. Edited December 28, 2006 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Interesting. Drak got me boned for maple sanded up to a zillion grit to bring out the chatoyance of the figuring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted December 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Interesting. Drak got me boned for maple sanded up to a zillion grit to bring out the chatoyance of the figuring! Yeah I heard the same thing. I tried it, and it does seem to look better. But the finish wouldn't stick to the wood with the maple sanded that high. Maybe it's because Drak is using nitro... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Interesting. Drak got me boned for maple sanded up to a zillion grit to bring out the chatoyance of the figuring! Yeah I heard the same thing. I tried it, and it does seem to look better. But the finish wouldn't stick to the wood with the maple sanded that high. Maybe it's because Drak is using nitro... Slightly mythological, possibly; try sealing with shellac (sticky, that), then scuffing that to 320 maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 (edited) Neck is glued and all that is left is to make a trussrod cover and wire it up. It should be done soon... Edited January 11, 2007 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 This is just conjecture on my part as I haven't done it to anything yet, but my belief is that if you want to sand to 4000 grit for the polished wood effect, then you should also use an oil for the first few coats. ...and you guys thought I was an oil-hater... I just think it has it's proper place, and some applications where it really shines, but it's a limited affair, that's all. Let that dry for 2 weeks, then you can use whatever you want on top. Shellac, lacquer, poly, whatever. You will need to lightly scuffsand it tho for best adhesion to an oil finish. I think (and this is a culmination of knowledge from years of reading MIMF posts years and years ago) that it is the combination of the two techniques that brings out the magnificence of the figure. One without the other will yield nice, but less-than-spectacular results. See, you polish it up that high until the wood is like a mirror shining back at you, then the oil SEEPS INTO THE WOOD. I believe that oil will seep into the figure deeper than other finishes and reflect it back at you more than any other typical finish, which are more prone to just sitting on TOP of the wood for the most part. It is in a deep understanding both of what is going on in the wood when you sand it up that high, and also in a deep understanding of how an oil finish works as opposed to most other finishes that leads me to this belief, and I do believe in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Wow. Thanks ever so much for the analysis Drak. I'm tempted to try it on my bass when it comes to the finishing stage to maintain the figure, but I'm unsure as to where (if at all) dye can sit in this mix. I suspect it can't as it would "flatten" the figuring hugely, correct? Anyway - back to Godin's new instrument....sorry to hijack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 If you've ever used Tru-Oil or any other kind of oil, you know that for the first coat, you can just keep on padding it on, and it will just keep on 'wicking' into the wood for as long as you want to keep applying it. Other finishes don't 'wick in' as deep like an oil finish does initially. Anybody who has a copy of Bob Flexner's 'Understanding Wood Finishing' will remember the picture of the glass jar with a piece of wood with it's endgrain sitting on the bottom, and about a half-inch of oil sitting on the bottom, and after a few days, the oil has wicked up ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP OF THE WOOD. Like, a good 6 inches or so, right to the top of the piece of wood strictly from the wood's capillary action and the viscocity of the oil. Shellac, lacquer, poly,othing else does that. But you have to really wait it out for the oil finish to COMPLETELY dry (2-3 weeks) before attempting to apply another finish over top of it, like shellac, lacquer, poly, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted January 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 I didn't finish the guitar today, but almost. All I have to do tomorrow is make the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted January 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 (edited) Alright shees all but done. It's really amazing, I love the way it plays and the way the finish feels. The sustain in the upper register is great. Those schaller tuners with the ebony buttons are pure class, I'm going to be using them again for sure. I know a photographer so later this week I'll go to his studio and have him take some pics. So I should have them up somtime this week. Edited January 29, 2007 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_tart Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 Top noptch fiddle.. cant wait to see the finished article :o) well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 Hey Godin man I love this Axe!! any chance of a sound sample? !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted January 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 (edited) Hopefully I will have a clip in the near future. Edited January 29, 2007 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'm Not Rex Brown Posted January 12, 2007 Report Share Posted January 12, 2007 i really like thing you done with neck, from back it looks awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 Ok here are a few more pics. pic2 pic3 pic4 pic5 pic6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 WOW is that a beauty! That's quite some awesome work there man, pat yourself on the back! One question, though: Any reason the control cavity isn't shielded? Other than that, I can't think of anything to say about this that hasn't been said before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 WOW is that a beauty! That's quite some awesome work there man, pat yourself on the back! One question, though: Any reason the control cavity isn't shielded? Other than that, I can't think of anything to say about this that hasn't been said before It was shielded after that picture was taken. Before I wired it up I painted the cavity with a couple of coats of conductive paint and grounded it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 Hey man... Digging the axe man. Really like the scarf joint you've done there. Is the black streak just a thick veneer? Couldnt quite make it out on the pics. Nice to see some natural maple tops for once Cheers S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer7440 Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 Gorgeous guitar man! Really clean work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 That guitar is teh win. OK... I'm too old to say "teh win"... But that's one heck of a beautiful guitar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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