Rista Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 (edited) I've been working on this guitar for months already and now decided to post some pics. I'm very busy and don't have much time for my project so that's why it's taking so long Anyway, here are the specs: Mahogany body, KL/ESP explorer shape 3 piece mahogany-maple-mahogany neck, 13° headstock angle Set neck construction Ken Lawrence style headstock 3+3 Sperzel locking tuners Schaller TOM bridge, Gotoh tailpiece 24.75" scale, 22 "Medium jumbo" frets, 12" fingerboard radius Graphtech nut EMG-81 (bridge) and EMG-60(neck) pickups No inlays All hardware in black color Unfortunetaly, my hard disk failed recently and I lost pretty much all pics that I was taking since I started building Here's a few that I managed to save: Here's the neck after laminating mahogany and maple and cutting the truss rod channel: http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/2524/dsc01410ue5.jpg Neck with tenon very roughly cut prior to routing (cut with a handsaw, didn't have a bandsaw at that time and was scared to go anywhere near the line ) : http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/8756/dsc01436nm6.jpg Routed tenon, and also neck routed to width although that can't be seen here: http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/7345/dsc02113hc6.jpg My fret slotting jig: http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/3549/dsc01924qc1.jpg Slotted fingerboard: http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/1264/dsc01928uh1.jpg That's it. Here's some pictures as of right now: Body and some closeup neck/pickup pocket pics: http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/3210/dsc02162ko0.jpg http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/1383/dsc02163iq8.jpg http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/2924/dsc02164tl2.jpg http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/2985/dsc02165ax1.jpg Body + neck pics http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/3808/dsc02133ba5.jpg http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/9859/dsc02148bia6.jpg http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/2739/dsc02149bmu7.jpg Headstock: http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/9675/dsc02153sr3.jpg As you can see, everything is still pretty rough especially the headstock which needs more carving and sanding. I'm waiting for double action truss rods that I ordered to arrive and then I'll glue the fingerboard on, glue the neck in and carve the back of it. In the mean time, I'll drill tuner holes, route the "ears" of pickup cavities, drill the jack hole etc. I'll post more pics when I make some significant progress Edited September 22, 2006 by Rista Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doeringer Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 Looks like quality work, slow is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logical Frank Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 Lookin' good. Hope my first comes out that well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 Moikka Rista - that's awesome work man :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Skullsplitter Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 (edited) Very nice man, very nice. I have always loved the Explorer shape with the KL headstock since I saw Hetfield play it. Edited September 22, 2006 by The Skullsplitter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted September 23, 2006 Report Share Posted September 23, 2006 Awesome stuff, could you explain your fret slotting jig, im a bit stumped on how to set one up like that. MzI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rista Posted September 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2006 Thanks. My fret slotting jig was inspired by n8rofwyo's Table Saw Shooting board tutorial which can be found HERE Mine's different because I didn't have a table saw so I made one (I built a table for a circular saw, like this one. Basically, it's a "shooting board" with small wheels on each side that slide on rails. I used a sliding roller door system that I had and I'm very satisfied with results (don't know if all this "roller door" talk makes sense in English, that's what we call it over here). Everything else is as usual. You need an indexing pin to use with your templates (can be seen on the slotted fretboard picture that I posted. it looks crude but it works and I've modernized it a little since then ) I made the templates myself, but you can buy them from Stewmac as well. And then all you need is a tablesaw blade with .023" kerf. I got mine from Stewmac and although it's expensive, it's still well worth the money IMO. When you have all that, cutting the slots if pretty straightforward as explained in n8rofwyo's tutorial. It takes me like 5 minutes to slot a fingerboard and the best thing is, everything is precise, cuts are perfectly parallel to each other and depth of the slots is uniform. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rista Posted October 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Update: Just a couple a days ago I received the truss rods that I ordered. Somehow they first ended up in Hungary before they had to be shipped again to my country Anyway, as I finished sanding the headstock I put the neck into a vise to fine sand that cove into the headstock. After a long time of careful sanding, just when I was pretty much finishing the headstock somehow the vise loosened, the neck fell down and top of the headstock broke Hours of work just gone in a second Not only I'm now completely demoralised, but also don't have enough wood for a new neck AND don't have the access to a thickness planer/jointer that I used to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unrealize Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 (edited) Not only I'm now completely demoralised, but also don't have enough wood for a new neck AND don't have the access to a thickness planer/jointer that I used to do. Man, that's a bummer. You seem to be a little haunted by bad luck. I'm building a KL Explorer too, and I got some nasty tear-outs when I routed the body, so your'e not alone. (like that helps). http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=25393&hl= I don't know if this is possible, but if you don't have enough wood for an entire neck, maybe you can make the headstock, and glue it to the broken neck with a scarf joint? Anyways, keep your head up, and don't give up. Like Red said in That 70's show, only quitters quit!!! Stay Sharp!! Edited October 2, 2006 by Unrealize Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck Brian Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Damn Rista...thats horrible news. I clicked on the updated link hoping to see this monster but..... Question for you - what kind of wood do you want and how thick? I happen to have a lot of mahogany, maple and purpleheart sitting on a rack that i'm not using. Other question - which country are you in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rista Posted October 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Man, that's a bummer. You seem to be a little haunted by bad luck Now that you mention luck... I also bought a new router last week and it's been a total disappointment. 5 times more expensive than my old one and 10 times worse. Oh and my drill press which has worked perfectly for over 20 years, does not anymore, since today of course. I'm building a KL Explorer too, and I got some nasty tear-outs when I routed the body, so your'e not alone. I used to have problems with tear-outs too but I practiced on scrap a lot at first. By using tips posted on these forums I managed to rout this body and neck with no tear-outs whatsoever. I don't know if this is possible, but if you don't have enough wood for an entire neck, maybe you can make the headstock, and glue it to the broken neck with a scarf joint? Don't think it would be worth it unfortunetaly. It would probably be more work than to make a new neck from scratch 'cause I already shaped the headstock and volute. Anyways, keep your head up, and don't give up. Like Red said in That 70's show, only quitters quit!!! Stay Sharp!! Thanks! Although situations like these are frustrating, I won't quit. This is my first build and I'm already addicted and have plans for future projects Damn Rista...thats horrible news. I clicked on the updated link hoping to see this monster but..... Question for you - what kind of wood do you want and how thick? I happen to have a lot of mahogany, maple and purpleheart sitting on a rack that i'm not using. Other question - which country are you in? I'd need either maple or mahogany as I like both tonally. The problem is, I live in Croatia and shipping costs alone from Canada would be expensive. I think I can get hold of a piece of maple but I'll have to find someone with a jointer/planer to machine it for me. Thanks for your offer though, I appreciate it Now that I look at it, perhaps this neck could be saved but I'm not sure I would be happy with it. It seems it's only the lower "horn" of the headstock that is broken. The upper horn is somewhat damaged too but somehow the whole headplate area seems intact (which if true is the most important since this is where the tuning machines go). I could route the whole headstock off with a flush trim bit following the headplate and then glue the missing pieces just like gluing peghead ears on. It would be strong enough 'cause this part of the headstock is cosmetic only and would save me a lot of trouble but I'm still not sure whether to do it. I really wanted this guitar to be "perfect" and by doing this it won't be alhough I could probably make it not visible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NamelessOne Posted October 3, 2006 Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 if the piece broke off cleanly, it'll fit back on perfectly. add a little glue, and you've got a joint that's a lot better of a fit than any amount of sanding will ever get you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rista Posted October 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Progress! I had some free time during the last couple of days and decided to try to save this neck. Well, here it is: http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3052/dsc02228uq2.jpg I'm very satisfied the way it turned out. I did take some time but it was worth it as it would take a lot longer to build a new neck. I also routed the electronics cavity: http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/5193/dsc02209yw0.jpg When I fix my drill press I'll make some significant progress. I want to drill the holes for sidemarkers before gluing the fingerboard on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Excellent work!! That is SUPER clean work in fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unrealize Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 That looks great, I'm glad it sorted out so well, personally I can't even see that it was ever broken... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGman Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Very Nice, and VERY clean work. I hope to see many more guitars from you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rista Posted October 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Today I cut/routed the part of the tenon that goes under the neck pickup: http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/2232/dsc02245yc4.jpg http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/2501/dsc02252vj2.jpg As you can see, the joint is pretty tight. I can hold the guitar by it's neck easily (I haven't glued the neck in yet). Also worked on the electronics cavity some more: http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/519/dsc02254yy4.jpg http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/9931/dsc02255dk7.jpg Not much but it's better than nothing Still waiting for my drill press. Very Nice, and VERY clean work. I hope to see many more guitars from you! I hope so as well! I'm thinking of buying some more mahogany that I can get for a good price. It's large enough for like 4-5 bodies and necks. So, as soon as I finish this project I'll start another one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexybeast Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 This is turning out awesome. Very nice and clean work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurits Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Looks good and like mentioned by others super clean, cool idea for the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rista Posted October 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 So, I installed the side dots. But, I'm not 100% happy about it. Here's why: http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2171/dsc02264fc1.jpg http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2246/dsc02266cj9.jpg (the fingerboard hasn't been glued on yet, that's why there is a gap between it and the neck) The right side dot on the 12th fret is very slightly off. If my measurements are correct, it's 0.15mm (3/500 of an inch!) higher positioned than the left dot. Now, I wouldn't mind at all if it was any other fret or if it was off horizontally but when there's two dots close to each other, it's visible. How accurately do you guys drill those holes? Is this acceptable? For some reason this is driving me crazy although the difference is very, very small. The fact that the right dot is located at the part of the rosewood that is lighter in color and gives an illusion that the dot is more off than it really is doesn't help either Any advice on what to do now? It's bothering me and I see no way to fix it. Not really crazy about the idea of making a new fingerboard just becase of this either. Am I just being too picky? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 I think you're being WAYYYYY too picky. I can't even tell that it's off at all in either of those pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 I always "drill" a very small hole with my exacto knife before I drill. It makes the drill bit follow the hole and gives you perfectly spaced dots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rista Posted October 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 I think you're being WAYYYYY too picky. I can't even tell that it's off at all in either of those pictures. I don't know. Perhaps it's more visible in person than on pictures. Or it's an illusion. I didn't think a 0.15mm difference would be visibile but I can see it I always "drill" a very small hole with my exacto knife before I drill. It makes the drill bit follow the hole and gives you perfectly spaced dots. Damn. You should have said that earlier I did it on a drill press which is usually very precise. I really don't know what happened as all other dots are centered well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desopolis Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 id use a press and a fence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rista Posted October 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 id use a press and a fence I did use a fence and all other dots came out fine except this one Now, I think I could fix this by drilling slightly bigger (2.5mm) holes over the existing dots (2mm) but the problem is, where am I going to find 2.5mm diameter plastic rods. Even if I do find them, am I just asking for more trouble doing that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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