Xanthus Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I'd go with aluminum, I think it would make a good compliment to the brown AND solve your shielding situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pukko Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I'd go with aluminum, I think it would make a good compliment to the brown AND solve your shielding situation. The shielding problem will be solved no matter what I put on the back of the plate I guess. Just put some aluminium or copper tape on. Maybe I should put some mahogany on the back of it to keep the wenge-mahogany back/maple-ebony front theme going? Aluminium would be cool though, there's some chrome up at the tuners that could use some company down at the body... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pukko Posted February 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 Started the clearcoating today... Nitro lacquer in spray cans. Back: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSC04455.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 very nice, i like it a lot! for the shielding. i would put some sort of black, becuase it looks nice looking like it goes through. and then shield over that, but so it gives the apperance the holes go right through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiewarlock Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 You are a master Pukko, i take my hat off to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackdog Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Started the clearcoating today... Nitro lacquer in spray cans. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSC04470.jpg Back: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSC04455.jpg Amazing work !!! I was thinking about something lately, and now you confirm that what I thought was indeed possible !! You can actually do a sunburst with the staining !!! Please, if you don't mind, tell me more about the staining process and technique. What did you use ?? Water or alcohol based ?? I will stain and finish with spraycan lacquer my current project (it's going to be the first time for me) and I'm really curious... Congratulations, it's a beautiful design and impeccably implemented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pukko Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 >>Kenny Thanks! Yeah, black might work as well. I'm going to have to think about this for a while, there's no rush deciding anyway since the lacquer has to dry for a month or so befor I start putting it all together... >>eddiewarlock Thank you! >>Blackdog Thanks! I got very inspired by Mykas thread about staining, here it is: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=12912 I started by sanding up to 400 grit, wetted the wood to raise the grain, sanded again, wetted, sanded, etc. until the grain stopped raising. I began with a medium brown stain, let it dry, sanded that back to get more contrast in the flaming, and put on a mix of the same brown stain (with a little more more water in it) and some yellow stain. After that I made the burst edge with the medium brown stain and some other type of even darker brown just touching the edge a little. To get the burst edge smooth I took some yellow stain in the middle and made that blend with the brown edge. After that had dried I stained the whole top with yellow to make it a little brighter. I used water based stain, I figured that would leave me with more time to correct any mistakes made since alcohol based stain dries a lot faster. The stains I used are made in Sweden so I guess there's no point in naming the specific colours... I used ordinary kitchen sponges to apply the stains, worked pretty ok. Have a couple of pieces of sponge ready to use (one for each stain, one for pure water and a couple as spares just in case...) , some water in a bucket, all the different stains, some cotton rags (old t-shirts are great!) might get useful too if you need to wipe off excess stain. I hope that might help you, if I forgot anything just ask! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackdog Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 I got very inspired by Mykas thread about staining, here it is: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=12912 I started by sanding up to 400 grit, wetted the wood to raise the grain, sanded again, wetted, sanded, etc. until the grain stopped raising. I began with a medium brown stain, let it dry, sanded that back to get more contrast in the flaming, and put on a mix of the same brown stain (with a little more more water in it) and some yellow stain. After that I made the burst edge with the medium brown stain and some other type of even darker brown just touching the edge a little. To get the burst edge smooth I took some yellow stain in the middle and made that blend with the brown edge. After that had dried I stained the whole top with yellow to make it a little brighter. I used water based stain, I figured that would leave me with more time to correct any mistakes made since alcohol based stain dries a lot faster. The stains I used are made in Sweden so I guess there's no point in naming the specific colours... I used ordinary kitchen sponges to apply the stains, worked pretty ok. Have a couple of pieces of sponge ready to use (one for each stain, one for pure water and a couple as spares just in case...) , some water in a bucket, all the different stains, some cotton rags (old t-shirts are great!) might get useful too if you need to wipe off excess stain. I hope that might help you, if I forgot anything just ask! Thanks a lot for the reply !!! I absolutely love the subtle sunburst effect you achieved. I'm very tempted to attempt something similar. When the time comes I will do some tests on the maple offcuts and see how it goes. Did I get it correctly ?? You use the brighter stain (yellow) to actually rub off some of the previous darker stain, right ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pukko Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Thanks a lot for the reply !!! I absolutely love the subtle sunburst effect you achieved. I'm very tempted to attempt something similar. When the time comes I will do some tests on the maple offcuts and see how it goes. Did I get it correctly ?? You use the brighter stain (yellow) to actually rub off some of the previous darker stain, right ?? Thanks, glad you like it! It actually works really well with the natural mahogany back too, I wasn't sure if I was going to stain the back a little darker as well but I'm glad I didn't... Yeah, use some offcuts of the same wood that you used for the guitar if possible to get an accurate colour test. You might want to make a bigger test piece too, not necessarily from maple though, just to get the feel for staining something the same size as a guitar. I tried on offcuts too, but it's another thing doing it on a bigger area. I used the yellow last to brighten it up a bit, I don't know if it turned brighter because I rubbed off the darker stain or if the yellow stain kind of pushed the darker stain down into the wood and sits on top of it... It's not a dramatic change of colour, just a little highlighting. I was lucky to get the colour I wanted right away, I guess the safe way is to stain it a little brighter than you would think was right and if it actually turns out too bright you can always stain it again to get a darker colour. Easier that way than going from dark to bright... But if you use your scrap pieces of maple to get the right colour and keep notes of how you did it I think you'll find it pretty easy to get a good result. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTU 7's. Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Sh!t, awesome work, Pukko. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pukko Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Sh!t, awesome work, Pukko. Thanks a lot! I forgot to show what I did last night: Flame maple and two layers of binding like on the body, not too often you see a sunburst switch knob... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 thats awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 That's crazy! And you know I like crazy! Nice job! CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inisheer Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 That switch looks like candy corn! This project is really great, I can't wait to see it done, this is inspirational work with a lot of unique features. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Eeexcellent... also, Blackdog: someone posted a video tutorial of some guy doing a rubbed burst (with green, but the effect's the same) not so long ago, very nice/useful info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TemjinStrife Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 It's all in the details with this build; that's a cool little switch knob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Very nice indeed. Thats one of the nicer tops I've seen. The figure on it just seems to work for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pukko Posted February 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Thanks everybody! Here's the link to the sunburst video tutorial Mattia writes about: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Ski...e.aspx?id=30182 I wrote earlier that I didn't stain the mahogany back and liked the result. Here's a pic that shows top and back colours, the pic is a little off colourwise but you can see that the top and back looks pretty good together. The mahogany got a little darker with the clear lacquer on of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bygde Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 That's by far the coolest switch knob I've ever seen! The axe looks just as awesome, and I agree that the mahogany looks good as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 What a lovely build! Great to watch this work come together and a superb eye for detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackdog Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 Here's the link to the sunburst video tutorial Mattia writes about: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Ski...e.aspx?id=30182 Thanks pukko and mattia for the movie link !!! Actually, looking at that movie he makes it look easy... I will start some color tests soon, will report the progress (or lack thereof) in the other thread. Thanks again. BTW: that switchtip is just amazing !!! The attention to detail that you show on your build is an inspiration to all of us. Keep it up !!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pukko Posted February 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 >>Bygde, al heeley Thanks!!! >>Blackdog Thanks! Yeah, it looks really easy when he does it. I think getting the right thickness of the burst edge in combination with the right colour must be the hardest part to get right. This guitar will have two regular potentiometers and one concentric (the one nearest the output jack). One problem with this is choosing what type of knobs to use. I think amber speedknobs would look good, but they won't fit on the concentric pot since that one doesn't have a knurled shaft. I would also have to make a knob for the lower part of the pot. I could use metal barrel knobs since those are available in stacked format as well. Not sure about the looks though... Does anyone know of other types of knobs that will fit concentric pots? Anyway, I also tried making my own knobs out of leftover wood and binding material. The top is ebony and the rest is wenge/binding/ebony/binding/wenge. There's more shaping to do, but you get the idea. Kind of hard to do this by hand, making a square piece of wood round etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stereordinary Posted February 26, 2008 Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 Hey dere! I'm new here so I guess I'm pretty late to this thread, but I just wanted to say nice work! It looks fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pukko Posted May 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 After clearcoating, drying/waiting, sanding, more clearcoating, more drying/waiting, sanding and polishing it is now a bit more shiny... http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSC04673-1.jpg I've started to mount the hardware but at first I'm just going to make it playable without electronics to see if the neck profile is to my liking etc. I'm also considering fitting two lower strap buttons like on a Tom Anderson. One reason is that the guitar might be neck heavy since it's a longer neck and I think placing the strap button a little higher up might reduce some of that. The other reason is that the guitar will hang differently when playing standing up. Haven't made my mind up on this yet though... I've never tried a guitar with strap buttons like that so I'm just guessing here, can anyone tell me if the difference will be noticeable? >>stereordinary Thanks a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TemjinStrife Posted May 17, 2008 Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 I like the double strap buttons so that you can stand the guitar up against an amp and worry less about it falling as well as for the adjustability. It definitely changes the way the guitar hangs and feels against your body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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